ROG100

My Car - If I remember well the oil pressure was not reaching 5 bar but maybe 4.
The noise from under the cam cover made Sean take a look. Sounded like a sticky lifter that would not go away.
Nice job Sean.
Roger

SeanR

Drivers side ones look great, but replaced them anyway. Thanks for bringing the parts over and then going back to get a tool Rog. She will be finished in about an hour. Ang wants to know if she can drive this one too Says she will clean it real gud.

Sorry for the high-jack Stan.

Mrmerlin

Sean dont forget to use the Loctite 574 sealant on the cam cover caps it is the whitish residue on the heads where the caps were installed
( scrape off the old stuff first)
if you dont use this then it will leak also I suggest to use some hondabond on the cap/head junction so the new gasket will seal
If the cam covers have peeling paint in the grooves where the housing seal sits scrape them of all paint then use bead of Honda bond on the groove so the gasket will seal better

SeanR

Used it and finished

Thanks

Mrmerlin

there is also a callout for a dab at the 4 corners where the cam caps meet the head I hope you put some Hondabond there as well.
Note the 574 is to seal the cam cap to the head and Honda bond seals the junction so the rubber gasket wont leak

SeanR

Yup, sealed up nice and tight there also.

blown 87

Just about any European repair shop will have a Wurth bolt bin.
Just make sure it is stocked with the real thing, or you can get AN stuff from Aircraft Spruce.

aaddpp

Bit of a thread resurrection, but I need to install oil plug pins in my 87, and wanted to clarify a couple of points on the installation of the pins as well as putting everything else back together.

Any need for a sealer applied to the pins? My research seems to say it is not required.

I understand that loctite 574 is used around the round caps to seal them to the aluminum contact points, but I was wondering about the remainder of the surface area of the "bridge" - the part removed to reveal the old pins and expose the old caps. Is anything required (gasket sealer, etc.) to seal the metal-to-metal contact points found between the upper and lower round caps, also I think there is a little bit above an below the caps?

On the pas. side, getting the lower cap off is done with almost no room for tools - I can bearly get a finger behind - thus a ratchet / sockets will not work. Any tips / tricks for removing and then installing the bolt to pull the. Looks like a PITA to get off and just as bad to reinstall.

Thanks,
Dave

928mac

Merlin, where do you get the plugs from, Roger?

Mrmerlin

AAddpp the 574 is NOT used on the rubber end caps.

NO sealant is used on the new oil block off pins either they just lay in the holes and the cam caps hold them into position.

It is used on the end cam caps ( the part that captures the cams at their journals) and this is where it contacts the top of the head, so oil wont seep past.

To fit the rubber plugs simply put them in position with their arms and install the cam caps with the 574 a small amount on the surfaces is all thats needed.

Make sure the rubber caps are flat in their bores, they can sometimes get cocked prior to tightening of the cam caps.
After this then use a dab of Honda bond 4 to fill the junctions on the outsides of the cam caps where they meet the head this will assist in the rubber cam cover seal actually sealing.

If you have peeling paint on the cam covers or the gasket groove isnt perfectly smooth then put a bead of the Honda bond into the groove of the cover before fitting the gasket, this will make sure the new gasket wont weep after it sees heat cycles.

dont forget the spark plug seals.

The 10mm bolt can be gotten with a 10mm craftsmen box wrench you may have to fiddle around and possibly bend the box portion so the wrench is straight but the box should just capture the head of the bolt.

BWmac the new oil block off pins can be had from Roger, you need 5 of them.

Also dont forget to get the cam cover sealing washers put the washers under the heads of all of the bolts this will compress the cam cover a bit tighter over there entire surface ,
Roger knows what to give you

Hilton

The correct replacements for the original plastic plugs are a factory Porsche part.. you need 5 of them. Part no. 928 105 262 00

aaddpp

Thanks Stan,

Understood, no sealant on caps or pins.

574 goes on the surface between the cam cap (what some I have read have called the "bridge") and the head. I have taken one of my photos of the area and used yellow indicators to show where I believe 574 goes, just to confirm.

After reading your response, I pulled the lower cam cap by loosening the arm, and was able to maneuver the cap out - arm is still in place so it should be fairly easy to put back together. If I need to, I should be able to pull the bolt out a bit more w/o removing it completely. The key for me was to avoid having to pull / reinstall the lower cap arm bolt in the confined working space.

Lastly, the four dabs of honda bond should wait until the installation of the can covers correct? If I understand correctly, its where a white silicone line material was found on disassembly - on the inner upper and lower corners of the cam cap? Dwayne's Intake writeup - the section where cam covers are reinstalled - shows what you are saying I think...I would have posted the photo of it, but did not feel comfortable posting a photo someone else took, and i did not have one with cap installed.

Rogers has hooked me up with everything I need as well.

Thanks for the help,
Dave

Mrmerlin

from your post about all of your your thoughts about fixing the cam covers and caps are correct. if you separate the bridge from the head then it needs new 574 .
You add the Honda bond when your installing the cam covers and it goes into the junction just like the white material that you found when you removed the covers.
dont forget to add bead of HB around the cam cover where the new rubber gasket fits most of the covers dont have a good sealing surface anymore

aaddpp

Much appreciated. I just have to replace the o-ring on the oil check valve and I should be good to go for putting it all back together.

Thanks,
Dave

y33trekker

Think I'm having this issue with my '90 S4. I've replaced the oil pressure sending unit and the dash gauge still reads the same as has been described.

When replacing the pins and cups, would the desired cups now be of the metal variety?