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My son's 1980 repaint begins.

 
Old 05-17-2010, 01:37 AM
  #46  
Dean_Fuller
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I sure hope so...thanks!
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:29 AM
  #47  
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Dean, that is some nice work! I have been looking at stripping all the paint off my '81. The paint has failed in several places, and like you have rust around the back hatch window.

But, my real question is do you have any recommendations on how to strip the doors, hood, and fenders, completely, as you have done? Anything to avoid or a "best way" to proceed? I located a local aircraft repair facility that will strip the aluminum parts if I bring them in, but they are talking about a lot of money IMO.

thanks in advance for any suggestions you care to offer.

Jim
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Old 05-17-2010, 01:08 PM
  #48  
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His car had been repainted at some point. The repaint was lifting and pitting so it had to be removed. In the process of sanding I went through the original primer to metal with my DA sander. I was afraid to have "spots" that deep so I went ahead and took it ALL off the aluminum. Some have told me I should of left the original primer on the car. That may of been best...I just don't know yet for sure. I used "aircraft stripper"...but it took many attempts. I would suggest buying in a Gallon size. They will sell that size where the paint is for sale. I used small cans but I also went back at least 6 or 8 times to buy more. Even with stripper...its hard work with so much area to strip and it still will not get it all. After the stripper I used 80 grit on a DA sander to finish the job... That went fast. If your old paint is in okay condition then just ruffing up the roof, rear quarters and rear deck is all that's needed. If you have rust the rear windows need to come out and I used "Rust-Mort" after I removed all I could with a wire wheel. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-17-2010, 01:45 PM
  #49  
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Dean,

Thanks for the quick response and ideas. This '81 has also been repainted, then touched up poorly, then cobbled on top of it all. As you can see from the photo the paint has entirely failed where the gravel / chip resistant paint is / has been. So, it appears to me everything needs to come off...the front fender on the driverĺs side is also peeling paint in the worst way, as well as some minor dings and poor repairs. No rust other than around the rear window....

This car has obviously been badly treated and abused....but it was an 80k mile 5 speed, and it was $800, so I am still considering how to best treat it, make a hot rod or faux racer, or just part it out..... I have stripped out the interior, (brown leather/naugahyde) getting ready to pull the motor....plenty to do....it is amazing how much the interior and seats and sound deadener materials weigh in these. I have pulled out more than 250 pounds of "stuff", including 8 oz of coins. Unfortunately none of the coins were Kugerands....total coins.....cash value of $4.56 Talk about a return on investment.....
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Old 05-17-2010, 03:30 PM
  #50  
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The car wants to live....its given you almost 5 bucks so far to save it! How does it run? I hate to see these parted...but I know some times it needs to. The early cars are disappearing quickly.
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Old 05-17-2010, 03:31 PM
  #51  
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5-17-10

Got the AC moved and a cooler built today so far. I took JHOWELL's ( don't know your first name ) advice and used 100 feet of 3/8" air hose in a trash can. I drilled a few holes in the bottom for it to drain slowly when the ice melts...If it drains too fast I will undrill a couple. Hose was less than $20 at Lowe's ( made in China ) but at such low PSI I think it will be fine.
BTW the AC will be covered when not in use. Its under the house overhang for now. Its not to be used outside but what can I do? I think it will be handy when I move to a house with a garage.
Now to find a Paint gun. Any suggestions??? I'm reading bad things about cheap HVLP guns not shooting clear well.
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Old 05-17-2010, 04:14 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Dean_Fuller View Post
The car wants to live....its given you almost 5 bucks so far to save it! How does it run? I hate to see these parted...but I know some times it needs to. The early cars are disappearing quickly.
It ran but it had water in the oil so I did not put it on the road...It was licensed and inspected to 5-09 so it has not been off the road long. So, I need to pull the engine to see if it is a head gasket or far worse....and how much damage was done by the water oil mix..... it gives me a reason to pull it and clean everything in sight, and it needs it.... but we all know what happens when you start disconnecting electrical and tired rubber parts.....it goes downhill quickly.... my original intent for this car was to pull the drive train and part the rest out. I was considering converting my auto '84 into a 5 speed, but after researching that process on this site and others I am not so certain that makes sense...
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Old 05-17-2010, 04:54 PM
  #53  
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Dean Not sure if you are aware but you will need to put down a chemical on top of the aluminum before primer. Can't think of it but if you need it I will find out. Otherwise there will be a problem with the surface.

The one place I am not happy with my job is the hood which I brought down to the metal. Looks like strips in certain angles. Probably has nothing to do with the aluminum though. I might need to do it over if I get the energy. The thought of sanding again and taping everything up makes me think the mistakes aren't that bad!
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:13 PM
  #54  
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Stephen,

Wouldn't it be easier to just take the hood off the car??? Never done it, but just seems like one of the only parts that MIGHT be easy to remove on a 928. Body panel wise anyway.
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:34 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Iwanna928 View Post
Dean Not sure if you are aware but you will need to put down a chemical on top of the aluminum before primer. Can't think of it but if you need it I will find out. Otherwise there will be a problem with the surface.

The one place I am not happy with my job is the hood which I brought down to the metal. Looks like strips in certain angles. Probably has nothing to do with the aluminum though. I might need to do it over if I get the energy. The thought of sanding again and taping everything up makes me think the mistakes aren't that bad!
Well I thought I would need to use Zinc Chromate but the new epoxy primers do the same thing. I plan on using epoxy primer which can't be sanded then high build primer on top of that that can be sanded. I will block that then its time for paint.

Last edited by Dean_Fuller; 05-17-2010 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:59 PM
  #56  
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Your son is helping you every step of the way. That is correct, is it not Dean? If this is not correct, he will not have the same love for the car and appreciate the amount of work that you have put into the car. Just my $.02.
The prep work looks great, BTW.
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Old 05-17-2010, 06:06 PM
  #57  
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WOW look at that record collection! Keep up the good work and pics!
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Old 05-17-2010, 06:30 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Iwanna928 View Post
Dean Not sure if you are aware but you will need to put down a chemical on top of the aluminum before primer. Can't think of it but if you need it I will find out. Otherwise there will be a problem with the surface.

The one place I am not happy with my job is the hood which I brought down to the metal. Looks like strips in certain angles. Probably has nothing to do with the aluminum though. I might need to do it over if I get the energy. The thought of sanding again and taping everything up makes me think the mistakes aren't that bad!
The "stripes" I bet is not enough overlap with the passes. I have seen others that look like that. Might be a easy fix....(famous last words)
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Old 05-17-2010, 06:39 PM
  #59  
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I also used epoxy primer but I was told that if you don't wash the aluminum w/ the chemical that there could be problems.

Epoxy is tough to block sand. No DA for that! Takes some time!

James it would have been easier but I left it on to line up the strip and just shot the whole thing. Toward the end I just wanted to paint the damm thing!

My wife was on my *** for spending so much time at the shop and I had no car as it is my DD. It took 5 weeks to complete. I didn't have a DA or should I say I didn't use one. The guy that taught me was old school and I think he took enjoyment from watching me block sanding all day and then sanding off 2 quide coats. He constantly was calling me a tennis *****! I liked him alot, he was a cool old man!
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Old 05-17-2010, 06:42 PM
  #60  
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I don't think it will be to bad at this point to fix. Just sand the clear down and reshot the area. I just dread doing it! Plus I need to buy a little paint, have plenty of clear left!

I also agree. I think the paint wasn't laid thick enough.

Now I need to buy some trim that I broke and some new tai lights! Alway's something.
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