john bono

I finally got a chance to start work on restoring the '79 euro ob. I installed a new battery and brought it home, and the battery was dead after two weeks, meaning there was something was causing it to discharge.

So I took the multimeter, and checked the current drain, and the ammeter read .240 amps. I started pulling fuses, and when I got to fuse 22(Fuel Pump, Warm-up Reg, Aux Air-Valve), and pulled that, the current dropped to .001 amps. I checked further whether it was the fuel pump and pulled relay XVII, and that didn't affect the current one way or another.

I checked the circuit diagram (here) and it looks like pulling the relay should end the battery drain regardless of which component has a short.

I guess at this point I'm asking what the next step should be. I'm pretty certain that the source of the problem isn't the fuel pump itself. If it was, pulling the relay should have stopped the current drain, and it didn't. However, it looks like the other two systems(Warm-up Reg, Aux Air-Valve), should also have been affected by pulling the relay,and it doesn't look like they were. Any ideas here, or should I just go under the hood and check both of these?

Mrmerlin

try leaving the fuse in and pulling the other relays that may clue you into whats being crossed.
Check the 14 pin connector over the hot post open the back of it look for wires with shedding insulation that may be touching.
Otherwise drop the CE panel with the battery disconnected and look at the wires on the back of the CE panel.
Any wire that has a satin sheen has seen heat otherwise the wires should look like a flat finish try to find where one or more of the wires have melted into each other.
Also check the wires that attach to each connector along the bottom of the panel see if one or more may be in the wrong position this will take some time also verify that the correct connector is in the correct slot.

Landseer

Sometimes you can find it by pulling all the relays and measure voltage to ground at each hot slot. Should all be the same.

dr bob

You'll discover that folks that install car phones, alarms, and stereos like to tap into wires that are more convenient than correct. I didin't look at the circuit diagram, but it would seem that some measuring among the various points on the relay socket and the fuse holder, with those components removed, would help you isolate the leakage to one wire or systm. From there, it may be sleuthing in the internal CE wiring (good luck unless you like all the same colored wires inside) and then throught the circuits with the appropriate plugs pulled from the CE panel.

john bono

You know who.

It turns out the female 14 pin connector was broken. and instead of being smart, and taking a picture when removing the connector, I, um, didn't. So I just ordered a new connector, and reassembled the old one as best as possible for the time being. So, does anyone know the pinouts for the connector on a '79?


I looked at the manuals, and I don't seem to have that info.

Mrmerlin

if your not sure you have to connector and the wires in the correct slots dont connect the battery . you did disconnect the battery before working on the elex system??
You may be able to match the upper connector wires with the lower connector wires as all of the pin slots are not filled

john bono

Yeah, battery is disconnected. I'm going to keep it that way until the short is tracked down.

WallyP

Actually, you do have that info.

Look on Page 97-31 at the wire going up from the Generator/Regulator. You will find that this is a blue wire that goes into Terminal 1 of T14.

Jut to the right, you will find a yellow wire that goes into Terminal 14 of T14.

And so it goes...