Virginia's Water Pump-Damaged Block Repair Complete - Procedure w/pics
11-30-2009, 03:02 PM
#31
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In too would like to give a big "THANKS" on the excellent detailed documentation of the repair. I have seen some of your other repair post and I too would buy that BOOK! I imagine it only took a longer time to complete because of your documentation of the process. What Patience! I hope I will not have to do this but if I do the guideline is set!
11-30-2009, 06:03 PM
#32
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Another fine piece of work from Sir Dwayne!
he would have had this done a while ago but he had to take a break and haul the Holbert car from LA to Connecticut for me and let me tell you,he documented that trip in true Dwayne fashion.Thanks again Dwayne!You Rock!!!
Ed
he would have had this done a while ago but he had to take a break and haul the Holbert car from LA to Connecticut for me and let me tell you,he documented that trip in true Dwayne fashion.Thanks again Dwayne!You Rock!!! Ed
12-01-2009, 08:53 AM
#34
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12-01-2009, 10:28 AM
#35
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Dwayne;
In too would like to give a big "THANKS" on the excellent detailed documentation of the repair. I have seen some of your other repair post and I too would buy that BOOK! I imagine it only took a longer time to complete because of your documentation of the process. What Patience! I hope I will not have to do this but if I do the guideline is set!
In too would like to give a big "THANKS" on the excellent detailed documentation of the repair. I have seen some of your other repair post and I too would buy that BOOK! I imagine it only took a longer time to complete because of your documentation of the process. What Patience! I hope I will not have to do this but if I do the guideline is set!
Even his dirty parts are cleaner than most clean parts I see on cars.
12-01-2009, 01:42 PM
#36
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Great pictures and great information.
Only one problem.....I don't understand the problem with the taps....I use my 1/2" impact to turn those things.
Only one problem.....I don't understand the problem with the taps....I use my 1/2" impact to turn those things.
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
01-02-2010, 01:54 PM
#40
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Dwayne...hats off to you from the 928 community. You just took a very, very daunting task and made it look possible for even the learning impaired. Great work. A picture will go a long way to not screwing up the block permanently through misunderstandings of the written word. Your's are the best.
I apologize if I didn't read this carefully enough but the JB weld will hold the part out a bit from the block. I know you allowed for this and clearance with the impeller but are there any possible "gothas" in calculating the proper distance? I like the idea of Play-Doh for checking prior to epoxy, but once that stuff sets, you're pretty well committed.
Perhaps someone should rebuild and stock some "recovered" blocks like this and sell them? Thanks again.
H2
I apologize if I didn't read this carefully enough but the JB weld will hold the part out a bit from the block. I know you allowed for this and clearance with the impeller but are there any possible "gothas" in calculating the proper distance? I like the idea of Play-Doh for checking prior to epoxy, but once that stuff sets, you're pretty well committed.
Perhaps someone should rebuild and stock some "recovered" blocks like this and sell them? Thanks again.
H2
01-02-2010, 02:00 PM
#41
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I think the question to ask before someone would want to get into fixing and selling damaged blocks is how many of them are out there. You would really need to do it on a "send me your block, I'll do the repair and send it back to you" kind of basis.
01-02-2010, 10:25 PM
#43
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Dwayne...hats off to you from the 928 community. You just took a very, very daunting task and made it look possible for even the learning impaired. Great work. A picture will go a long way to not screwing up the block permanently through misunderstandings of the written word. Your's are the best.
I apologize if I didn't read this carefully enough but the JB weld will hold the part out a bit from the block. I know you allowed for this and clearance with the impeller but are there any possible "gothas" in calculating the proper distance? I like the idea of Play-Doh for checking prior to epoxy, but once that stuff sets, you're pretty well committed.
Perhaps someone should rebuild and stock some "recovered" blocks like this and sell them? Thanks again.
H2
I apologize if I didn't read this carefully enough but the JB weld will hold the part out a bit from the block. I know you allowed for this and clearance with the impeller but are there any possible "gothas" in calculating the proper distance? I like the idea of Play-Doh for checking prior to epoxy, but once that stuff sets, you're pretty well committed.
Perhaps someone should rebuild and stock some "recovered" blocks like this and sell them? Thanks again.
H2
One option is to leave out the JB Weld on the back of the insert and only apply it to the threads of the screws to seal them. I might try this option if I ever have to make this repair again. Clearance was no problem after applying the JB Weld until I applied tension to the water pump pulley from the timing belt. Then there was a very faint scraping for a fraction of a revolution of the impeller. Re-installing the water pump with water pump sealant on both sides of the gasket cleared it up. Another option is to simply install two water pump gaskets dry to give more clearance.
Thinking about it some more, I believe I should have test fit the insert without the JB Weld and the water pump without the gasket and installed the timing belt with correct tension. Then rotate the crank and see if any scraping is heard. The thickness of the JB Weld should be less than the thickness of the water pump gasket so if everything works smoothly in the test, it should work smoothly in the final assembly with JB Weld and Gasket installed, theoretically.
Play-doh might work for checking clearance except I don't know how to measure such minute thicknesses (with any accuracy) with a material that is soft to begin with. THANKS for the question!
01-04-2010, 07:29 AM
#44
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it's a 2 part mix like epoxy, sets up to a semi-firm rubber, pulls right off (no parting agent needed), doesn't leave a residue, and maintains it's shape.
just mix up a small ball, stick it on an impeller blade, install the pump and wait 15 minutes. remove the pump, remove the rubber, cut it half and measure the gap with a digital caliper. we use this for setting gaps on 737 engine thrust reversers, it would be perfect for this.
01-04-2010, 11:00 PM
#45
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forget the Play-doh, use ReproRubber.
it's a 2 part mix like epoxy, sets up to a semi-firm rubber, pulls right off (no parting agent needed), doesn't leave a residue, and maintains it's shape.
just mix up a small ball, stick it on an impeller blade, install the pump and wait 15 minutes. remove the pump, remove the rubber, cut it half and measure the gap with a digital caliper. we use this for setting gaps on 737 engine thrust reversers, it would be perfect for this.
it's a 2 part mix like epoxy, sets up to a semi-firm rubber, pulls right off (no parting agent needed), doesn't leave a residue, and maintains it's shape.
just mix up a small ball, stick it on an impeller blade, install the pump and wait 15 minutes. remove the pump, remove the rubber, cut it half and measure the gap with a digital caliper. we use this for setting gaps on 737 engine thrust reversers, it would be perfect for this.