LGL

Drain went from 20ma, mostly radio, to 2.2 amps. Pulled each fuse one at a time with no effect. Only work since my last check was to fix the red door lamp on the passenger side. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Grant
1986 Auto

Mrmerlin

roll down the windows and close the door wait to see it the door lamp goes off by looking inside the door,it should go off in about 40 seconds or less.
If the light wont go off then check the door pin switches and the hatch switch

LGL

Thanks. Discovered the light has stopped working again and the drivers door lock stem has dropped into the door but still functions but doesn't come up through the hole. I can fix that but pulling fuse on electric locking system had no effect. Battery went dead during the troubleshooting so on hold till recharge.

tailpipe

shorted diode in the alternator maybe I have had a couple go bad on me before

RevAgent

It's just the price you have to pay for having a sexy color like Garnet Red

I love that color! I'm also chasing a battery drain; thinking it might be the alternator diode as well...

LGL

Does the alternator keep working normally?

tailpipe

yes it will work normally but will drain the battery when the engine is not running. any auto electrical shop should be able to test it for you but you will have to ask them specifically to test for bad diodes or they will just test the output

Adrian_

I remember reading another topic about a similar high level drain (2.2 A)

Here it is https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ery-drain.html

You might want to do some of the tests mentioned there, but the sympthoms look very similar, so it's probably the alternator.


................................................................

1979 Euro

Korwen

what's up fellow 2.2amp drain on their battery friend! I've got a similar problem going and so far all signs look like its the alternator, only I haven't had the time to replace it.

Bit of advice - if you pull the starter wires off to see if that's the case, electrical tape the two hot wires together to complete the circuit so you know if it was the starter itself, or if it is further up the circuit.

*grumbles about damn wires*

tailpipe

You can order a new diode pack from you local auto electric repair store and replace it yourself. All you need is the brand of the alt, mine cost me $65.00 CAN and took me maybe an hour including taking it off the car. Just a few nuts and screws to get inside the alternator.The hardest part was resoldering the 3 wires from the Y stator to the diode pack, kinda need 3 hands with small fingers thats all.

LGL

So far my efforts have increased drain to 2.4 amps. Alternator is removed-still drains, jump- post leads lifted-still drains , all leads to starter except yellow lead to top of solenoid( ignition?) lifted-still drains. I'd like to avoid the yellow lead because it is really hard to get to. Any Suggestions?

Korwen

Same exact thing happened to me when I removed everything, it went up to 2.4amps. Weird, we probably have the same issue. If I get it sorted, I'll be damn sure to let you know.

Korwen

Question,

Was removing the jump post the first step you did, or did you remove the alternator or starter wires first?

Alan

How are you measuring the current?

What exactly have you disconnected (sequentially...)

Are you sure all the interior lights are off (how?)

Try disconnecting the extra connections to the battery +ve terminal (effect?)

Alan

davek9

What Alan said and also does this car have anti-lock brakes?