Plug / Wire Change Turned Into a Nightmare - PLEASE Help!
09-09-2009, 08:34 PM
#31
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I didn't think the damn fuel rails had to be removed, and that's a relief to know as well.
Also, the connectors on the TPS wire look super-high-tech for something from '85
I also have a new vacuum line kit I'm going to install; might as well get the fuel line kit from Roger just to be safe. Also, is the center plenum & TB easily removed? I assume the fuel rail will have to be removed for that... I've decided I'm going to powder-coat or paint the cam covers, side intake extensions, and the plenum Guards Red or the like to add some color to my Meteor Metallic shark; thinking it will look gorgeous...
Also, the connectors on the TPS wire look super-high-tech for something from '85
I also have a new vacuum line kit I'm going to install; might as well get the fuel line kit from Roger just to be safe. Also, is the center plenum & TB easily removed? I assume the fuel rail will have to be removed for that... I've decided I'm going to powder-coat or paint the cam covers, side intake extensions, and the plenum Guards Red or the like to add some color to my Meteor Metallic shark; thinking it will look gorgeous...
09-09-2009, 10:28 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
TB requires intake and fuel rail removal. Can't easily remove center plenum with intakes installed without damaging paint or more. Order of reassembly best done by mounting center tube first, then intakes, fyi. Since intake and rail removal is not hard, you might as well do it all. Center tube is held with hose clamp. TB is three 10mm nuts. Note: be sure to buy three rubber shock pads for mounting TB. Two different ones for the mounting of airbox back (off of the fuel regulator mountings).
Fuel lines are easily doable without pulling above.
Do the fuel lines no matter what else you do.
Electrical connectors were hi-tech in form but not material of construction.
Fuel lines are easily doable without pulling above.
Do the fuel lines no matter what else you do.
Electrical connectors were hi-tech in form but not material of construction.
Last edited by Landseer; 09-09-2009 at 11:22 PM.
09-09-2009, 11:20 PM
#33
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My BMW has oil around a couple of the plugs. Found it while changing plugs. Like someone said it's orings. Also on a side note changed my cap and rotor today and the plug wires are a mother F***** to get off the cap. Finally got them swapped over what a mother I think it's the threads on the terminals that make them so hard to come off.
09-10-2009, 05:43 PM
#34
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Yes I agree! The two wires that I did the other day before I stopped working on the car were SOB's to say the least...
09-11-2009, 11:52 AM
#36
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On average... how long does it take to remove a cam cover? Assume... that one does not break every bolt... though in my case... maybe breaking all but one should be included in the time.
Also... cost for parts (seals)
My car (1987 928S4) has the same issue. Not filling with oil but many of the holes have oil in the bottom of them.
Also... cost for parts (seals)
My car (1987 928S4) has the same issue. Not filling with oil but many of the holes have oil in the bottom of them.
09-11-2009, 07:32 PM
#37
Nordschleife Master
On average... how long does it take to remove a cam cover? Assume... that one does not break every bolt... though in my case... maybe breaking all but one should be included in the time.
Also... cost for parts (seals)
My car (1987 928S4) has the same issue. Not filling with oil but many of the holes have oil in the bottom of them.
Also... cost for parts (seals)
My car (1987 928S4) has the same issue. Not filling with oil but many of the holes have oil in the bottom of them.
You have to remove fuel line to front dampner, take off the engine lifting loop, and it helps to remove the air pump diverter valve for access to bolts.
The S4 bolts are different and tend to undo a little more easily, but when tightening them, do it by hand and stop when you feel them bottom out. I've stopped using my 1/4" drive torque wrench on them after shearing some at less than the factory stated torque.
09-13-2009, 04:09 PM
#38
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Update - getting there, slowly...ran into another bump in the road, so to speak, today...lets just say I need a new coil wire connector...emailed Roger an order; can hopefully get the new one early this week.
I got all of the oil out from the spark plug cavity, cleaned out the hole and plug connector, and sealed up the recess for the cam cover spark plug o-ring with some black silicone...I'm not a fan of "quick-fixes" per say, however at least this will get the car running better in order to diagnose any other potential issues until I do the cam cover seals this winter.
I also ran into a few other issues:
1] I'm almost positive I need new motor mounts. I haven't been able to do the "test" while revving the engine, but when a tool fell under the car and I got down to grab it I noticed that my oil pan is sitting about .5 - .75" below the cross member. I thought that a majority of the vibrations were from the miss in the ignition system, however I can safely say that the mounts need renewing. Time for some solid mounts.
2] Now I'm no Porsche Tech, but I'm pretty sure that a 928 shouldn't have a manual choke hooked up to the TB. When I removed the airbox I noticed a shielded cable unhooked ending at the TB. I followed it up to a manual "pull-out" style **** up by the radiator..I have no idea why this would be here and I'm going to remove it unless someone here tells me that it's supposed to be there for some reason.
3] While removing the drivers side intake extension to access the plugs, I removed a bracket attached to a hard, pre-bent metal hose/line going down under the engine with a blueish, semi-domed, plastic cap facing straight up ...this was rusted through and I have no idea where it goes...feel free to enlighten me; will post photos if that helps...
4] I have a round female connector on the top back of the plenum, rite between [it] and the airbox. It looks like something should be plugged into it; I have no idea what.
Your feedback on any of these issues is welcome!
-Mark
I got all of the oil out from the spark plug cavity, cleaned out the hole and plug connector, and sealed up the recess for the cam cover spark plug o-ring with some black silicone...I'm not a fan of "quick-fixes" per say, however at least this will get the car running better in order to diagnose any other potential issues until I do the cam cover seals this winter.
I also ran into a few other issues:
1] I'm almost positive I need new motor mounts. I haven't been able to do the "test" while revving the engine, but when a tool fell under the car and I got down to grab it I noticed that my oil pan is sitting about .5 - .75" below the cross member. I thought that a majority of the vibrations were from the miss in the ignition system, however I can safely say that the mounts need renewing. Time for some solid mounts.
2] Now I'm no Porsche Tech, but I'm pretty sure that a 928 shouldn't have a manual choke hooked up to the TB. When I removed the airbox I noticed a shielded cable unhooked ending at the TB. I followed it up to a manual "pull-out" style **** up by the radiator..I have no idea why this would be here and I'm going to remove it unless someone here tells me that it's supposed to be there for some reason.
3] While removing the drivers side intake extension to access the plugs, I removed a bracket attached to a hard, pre-bent metal hose/line going down under the engine with a blueish, semi-domed, plastic cap facing straight up ...this was rusted through and I have no idea where it goes...feel free to enlighten me; will post photos if that helps...
4] I have a round female connector on the top back of the plenum, rite between [it] and the airbox. It looks like something should be plugged into it; I have no idea what.
Your feedback on any of these issues is welcome!
-Mark
09-13-2009, 05:09 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
I can best comment on 1. The majority of your vibrations are almost definitely coming from the MM's. Just started mine 15 min ago after doing that job, its like night and day. Actually, this is the 5th set I've installed in 4 years on 928's, and each was like this. Do a silicon oil pan gasket when you do the mounts.
09-13-2009, 06:28 PM
#40
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I can best comment on 1. The majority of your vibrations are almost definitely coming from the MM's. Just started mine 15 min ago after doing that job, its like night and day. Actually, this is the 5th set I've installed in 4 years on 928's, and each was like this. Do a silicon oil pan gasket when you do the mounts.
I remember when my father bought his '85 new, even though I was very young, I have always remembered how smooth the engine was, even when he traded it in for a 911 about 5 years later, it was still buttery-smooth, and that's where I want to get this car, no matter what it takes
09-13-2009, 07:38 PM
#41
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Many opinions registered on this here.
I'm not an expert. I am using solid replacements that I got from 928's rUS. Can have solid or liquid filled at same price. That's whats' working for me. Very smooth. Shop around, I think its about $70 for a set.
Original are apparently liquid filled and very, very expensive from Porsche.
I'm not an expert. I am using solid replacements that I got from 928's rUS. Can have solid or liquid filled at same price. That's whats' working for me. Very smooth. Shop around, I think its about $70 for a set.
Original are apparently liquid filled and very, very expensive from Porsche.
09-13-2009, 09:08 PM
#42
Team Owner
1 Pan should be flush with the X member. From your description you need new mounts, usually the vibration is coming from the manifolds hitting on the X member cross braces, it can viewed from behind X member.
2 post a picture, the hand throttle doesnt sound good, could it be an aux hood release?
3 the tube is an exhaust sample tube, the other end is screwed into the manifold, i suggest that you try to remove the cap that holds the other end. If you cant get it off then crimp the tube over a few times.
If you do get it off you can use a ball bearing that fits inside the cap or cut down a carriage bolt that will fit inside the cap
4 the round connector is a timing monitor used at the dealer, it serves no other function as far as the running condition of the car
2 post a picture, the hand throttle doesnt sound good, could it be an aux hood release?
3 the tube is an exhaust sample tube, the other end is screwed into the manifold, i suggest that you try to remove the cap that holds the other end. If you cant get it off then crimp the tube over a few times.
If you do get it off you can use a ball bearing that fits inside the cap or cut down a carriage bolt that will fit inside the cap
4 the round connector is a timing monitor used at the dealer, it serves no other function as far as the running condition of the car
09-14-2009, 08:25 PM
#43
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1 Pan should be flush with the X member. From your description you need new mounts, usually the vibration is coming from the manifolds hitting on the X member cross braces, it can viewed from behind X member.
2 post a picture, the hand throttle doesnt sound good, could it be an aux hood release?
3 the tube is an exhaust sample tube, the other end is screwed into the manifold, i suggest that you try to remove the cap that holds the other end. If you cant get it off then crimp the tube over a few times.
If you do get it off you can use a ball bearing that fits inside the cap or cut down a carriage bolt that will fit inside the cap
4 the round connector is a timing monitor used at the dealer, it serves no other function as far as the running condition of the car
2 post a picture, the hand throttle doesnt sound good, could it be an aux hood release?
3 the tube is an exhaust sample tube, the other end is screwed into the manifold, i suggest that you try to remove the cap that holds the other end. If you cant get it off then crimp the tube over a few times.
If you do get it off you can use a ball bearing that fits inside the cap or cut down a carriage bolt that will fit inside the cap
4 the round connector is a timing monitor used at the dealer, it serves no other function as far as the running condition of the car
I thought the same about an aux hood release, perhaps never finished...who knows...
It's nice knowing what that tube was for
Thanks for all of you're insight, it is much appreciated.
-Mark
Last edited by RevAgent; 09-15-2009 at 12:25 PM.
09-15-2009, 12:41 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
2 post a picture, the hand throttle doesnt sound good, could it be an aux hood release?
3 the tube is an exhaust sample tube, the other end is screwed into the manifold, i suggest that you try to remove the cap that holds the other end. If you cant get it off then crimp the tube over a few times.
If you do get it off you can use a ball bearing that fits inside the cap or cut down a carriage bolt that will fit inside the cap
3 the tube is an exhaust sample tube, the other end is screwed into the manifold, i suggest that you try to remove the cap that holds the other end. If you cant get it off then crimp the tube over a few times.
If you do get it off you can use a ball bearing that fits inside the cap or cut down a carriage bolt that will fit inside the cap
on '85s almost all those air sample tubes (one on each side) are broken off. Mine was broken at the bung in the manifold. I used the metal screw method and put hose clamp around it. You might try furnace cement (hardware/plumbing) in the hole w/ or w/o the screw.
