davek9

Erick it will make your shark quicker than a house fly...
Can you make this months meeting?

Big Dave

Looks clean! When do I get to go for a ride?

davek9

What are you doing Thursday night..?
You should plan to come early B4 the Nitrous runs out...

EMan 928

I'm hoping to be there, but my shark won't. The 993 will be, though...

WallyP

WARNING!
EXPOSURE OF NITROUS BOTTLES TO TEMPERATURES IN EXCESS OF 130° F MAY CAUSE AN EXPLOSIVE FAILURE

Typical interior temp of a closed car in the Georgia sunshine is 140 degrees...

AO

Dave-

I now know why I had that extra WBO2 sensor. When I blew my head gasket, coolant went down the exhaust pipe and may have contaminated that WBO2 sensor. If it doesn't work, I have that other one with screwed up wires you can try.

davek9

A BIG thanks Andrew, it's kinda funny how much clearer we tend to think in the AM.

I am waiting for the rain to stop and the roads to dry up..

Now I know why you Supercharged guys always have a smile on your face when you get out of your cars, like that guy "Bob" in those commercials

davek9

Hello all, I have been living w/the Nitrous system now for about two weeks and wanted to share some up-dates.

First a Big Thanks to Dave L, for the Bottle Heater !

As we all knew and I can now attest to, w/o a Bottle Heater you’re not going to get consistency in Bottle Pressure and will not make the correct HP for your jetting.

Here are some Pic’s of the Bottle Heater install (just did a Friday night quickie job to get ready for Saturday) but I did not cut any corners, just did not get into under dash work.

You can see from the Pressure and temp Pic at 74 degrees it was not getting to 1050 PSI, and that is where this systems Nozzle and Jets are calibrated at.

Now with the Proper Pressure (Heater shuts down when Bottle is at 85 degrees) takes about 10 min’s I am at 1050 and wow what a difference!

With a constant Pressure I continued to run her at the 30% to 75 % increase, starting at 3k going up to 75 % at 4250 RPM and staying at 75% (112 HP all the way to 5500 RPM and man did she pull really strong and put a bid smile on my face.

However last night I up it to 80 % (a 120 HP shot) starting at 2750 RPM at 30 % and by 3800 going to 80% all the way to 5800.

She broke the rear wheels loose in first gear for about 1 sec (I felt her squirm) when I hit 4 k RPM …OMG what a rush, she gave me an O face.!

Next mod is to nix the Fuel Pressure safety switch which adds additional fuel connections and clutter under the hood (now hidden by the Air Intake Tube. And only good if your fuel pump fails, it won’t shut the system down it your too lean due to clogged jet or fuel solenoid, or controller failure.

I am looking at installing the Wide band in conjunction with an AFR cut-off that can be set and programmed with a delay to shut down the system in the event of a lean and or rich condition.

Thanks for the comments, assistance and support.

Dave K9

Brett928S2

Hi

A little advice ...I would put those temp sensors UNDER the heater blanket itself....not at the top of the bottle, where you have them but UNDER the bottle....

The reason is that there is a BIG temperature differential between where the blanket heats and once it has heated the liquid Nitrous and the bottle itself at the top where you are reading the temperature....

Having said that you should be able to tell by your pressure guage (assuming you CAN see that from the driving position)

If you get too much pressure, the blow off valve on the neck of the bottle WILL BLOW and you will lose a whole bottle of Nitrous...not risky but gets expensive lol

All the best Brett

davek9

Hi Brett, thanks but this is exactly where NOS (who makes this Heater) shows their placement, as the Heater get up to 150 degrees! And thus they would shut down prematurely.

You need to get the overall bottle temp and its contents up to 85 degrees.

Believe me I was a bit apprehensive watching her cycle through several heat cycles and watching the pressure gauge go close to read line (but that only happens when the bottle is real cold once it completes the first cycle, from then on it stays right in the middle as the temp is maintained.

Thanks for the post as I am sure others were thinking that same as you and I did.

DaveK9

David L. Lutz

Dave,

I didn't notice on your bottles if you had the saftey valve adapter so that you can attach a hose to vent the gas to the outside in case of a high temp/high pressure blow off.

Believe it or not I had just filled my bottle and parked in the sun and my saftey valve did let go and vented the complete bottle. Sounded like a Jet rocket lifting off.

Lucky me I had used the adapter and ran a blow off hose down thru the floor right at the rear of the car.

http://www.edelbrock.com/sportcompac...0-72961_lg.jpg

Just wanted to check, its a must for a hatch back setup.

bcdavis

Awesome writeup!

Brett928S2

Hi

I don`t use the sensors on mine actually..even though my twin blankets are the same make as yours.....

If you look at the picture you will see twin RED valves at the top of my twin 15 lb bottles...

These are SPRV valves = Safe Pressure Relief Valves.

The way they work is that as the pressure rises to an excess level, they release tiny amounts of Nitrous until the pressure drops so there are no blow off valves to empty the whole bottle...

To be honest, its the one thing about all American systems I dislike...blow off valves are 40 year old technology and as I fill American bottles for the local lads in my area as a favour , they are always saying that they are losing a whole bottle on a regular basis

And if you take one apart and look how they are made you will see why...its appalling engineering.. a tiny metal disc thinner than a piece of coke can






All the best Brett

davek9

Another GREAT reason to join the 928 Owners Club..., the travel bag holds your spare 10 lb Bottle !

Received my "free" ($15. shipping) in the mail this past week, and although it does not have a high-end bottle valve with accessory ports and improved flow, for $15. bucks you can't beat the deal they had.

I do aggree with others here that a blow-off tube would be nice and is needed for Track events.

Also there is a concern about over temp of the bottle under the glass in the rear of the shark, I have mine mounted under the carpet and use a section of Hood insulation under that, so there is no direct sun exposure, but still something to watch out for on hot days.

Also I don't understand why anyone would run a heater w/o some type of autoswitch to shut down once the bottle(s) are at the correct temp or preasure. (edit: thats a super looking set-up).

Thanks for the comments, assistance and support.

Dave K9

mark kibort

great mod. I think I was leaning toward a design like this to at least keep up with the NSX for a few laps. (do they make a 300hp shot through a wet nossil? )
Anyway, i had a lot of luck with this type of installation with my 84 part euro 5 liter. (50hp shot) It lasted 10 laps in any race, and I had the on switch mounted on my dead pedal , so that It could be activated after the clutch was released, only!