Torque Converter bearing carnage photos...
09-03-2009, 06:34 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Torque Converter bearing carnage photos...
Here are some photos of the mess that came out of my torque tube when the axel was separated from it. It's no wonder it wasn't making more sound than it was...
09-03-2009, 07:27 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was planning on just replacing the converter bearings, but when Rob Roy put his transaxel, TC, and TT up for sale, I jumped on it so I could swap fast, rebuild the original parts at my leisure, and limit down time. I get withdrawls if the sharks sit in the garage for too long....
09-03-2009, 07:31 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I still havn't even looked into the TT, except for it does not spin very nice.... It's odd though that the TT really didn't make any noise that I could tell... When I pulled the rubber plug for the rear TT coupler, I could see the bearing seal floating on the drive shaft along with a little metal snowfall...
09-03-2009, 08:26 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
By the way, when I picked up the car from San Diego, I checked the flexplate and axial crank play as good. The front clamp was reset and re-torqued to 65 ft.lbs. When I removed the clamp at the flexplate during the transaxel removal, there was about 3mm of flexplate preload. The odometer only shows 550 miles elapsed.... I imagine that the TC bearing condition and resulting vibration might have amplified the driveshaft twistup migration... I guess I need to shell out for a PKlamp or a Superclamp....
09-03-2009, 08:51 PM
#7
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
So, were there loose bearings in the debris? I see what looks like a torn up shield. What were the bulk of the metal shavings from?
Trending Topics
09-03-2009, 09:02 PM
#8
Team Owner
dont forget that when you check the flex plate the first bolt that gets tightened is the rear clamp bolt, simply checking the front bolt and relieving the flex tension isnt good enough .
You must verify that the rear bolt is in fact torqued first.
Good Luck with the repair.
One other thing i would suggest that you invest in some stronger jack stands, the 3 foot pressed steel ones you have pictured make me nervous, especially for supporting the car
You must verify that the rear bolt is in fact torqued first.
Good Luck with the repair.
One other thing i would suggest that you invest in some stronger jack stands, the 3 foot pressed steel ones you have pictured make me nervous, especially for supporting the car
09-03-2009, 09:06 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is what's not completely clear yet. I didn't find any loose ***** in the debris. (but where else could they go?) I will do a full examination tonight. At first glance, It seems the metal should be the *****, shield, seal, or race. I'm not ruling out the rear TT bearing yet either... BUT... If the shavings are aluminum... That means TC machining away at the inside of the bellhousing... And that is certainly possible.
09-03-2009, 09:22 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
Ouch that doesn't look good! I know your buying some parts off some one else but I would recommend at least putting in a rebuilt torque tube since this job is so big. I'm just finishing up my torque tube replacement and its definitely not fun! Good Luck with it
09-03-2009, 09:23 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dont forget that when you check the flex plate the first bolt that gets tightened is the rear clamp bolt, simply checking the front bolt and relieving the flex tension isnt good enough .
You must verify that the rear bolt is in fact torqued first.
Good Luck with the repair.
One other thing i would suggest that you invest in some stronger jack stands, the 3 foot pressed steel ones you have pictured make me nervous, especially for supporting the car
You must verify that the rear bolt is in fact torqued first.
Good Luck with the repair.
One other thing i would suggest that you invest in some stronger jack stands, the 3 foot pressed steel ones you have pictured make me nervous, especially for supporting the car
09-03-2009, 09:25 PM
#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got ready, good condition parts 20 ft. away. I should be driving this weekend. It will give me time to go through the original drive line like it deserves.
09-03-2009, 09:28 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seriously, the only issue I have to deal with is the shim washers between the cross member and transaxel fell out. Otherwise, it's like a walk in the park with road debris dropping on your face.
...all the best nonetheless.