ECTS 2 fault code on a '90 S4
#1
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Thread Starter
ECTS 2 fault code on a '90 S4
This one is throwing me for a loop. Getting this on both the LH and EZK on the hammer. This is on the wifes '90 S4. Temp II is new, harness is good.
What am I missing? When I try to clear the code it clears with the LH side, but when I go to clear the EZK, it states that the code cannot be cleared.
I'm at a bit of a loss.
What am I missing? When I try to clear the code it clears with the LH side, but when I go to clear the EZK, it states that the code cannot be cleared.
I'm at a bit of a loss.
#2
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but when I go to clear the EZK, it states that the code cannot be cleared.
Did you actually do something specific to "fix" the 1_14 (LH) code? Is that why the Temp-II is new? Or did you just clear it and cross fingers?
Last edited by worf928; 08-16-2009 at 01:48 PM.
#3
Drifting
The purpose of the diagnostic tester is for troubleshooting only, not repair. First determine the reason for the fault, make the repair, then clear the fault code in the controller(s).
It's interesting that both LH and EZK have fault codes for the same component (Engine Temperature Sensor II). Since your getting the same fault on both controllers, at least you know part of your harness is not defective. You need to measure the ohms of temp II sensor at the controller's harness connector. If that reading is open circuit, then measure directly at the sensor. Since its a new temp II sensor, its likely a bad connection, however you need an ohm meter to find where the problem is located.
Your getting LH fault code DTC 1-14 which is covered in WSM Vol 1A, page D24-14. It requires you to use a ohm meter and measure the ohms at pins from the harness at the LH connector. You only need to know the coolant temperature and find the expected ohms that should be read on the meter. Simple.
Your EZK fault code DTC 2-14 is covered in WSM Vol 1A, page D28-7. Same procedure except ohms measured at EZK harness connector.
It's interesting that both LH and EZK have fault codes for the same component (Engine Temperature Sensor II). Since your getting the same fault on both controllers, at least you know part of your harness is not defective. You need to measure the ohms of temp II sensor at the controller's harness connector. If that reading is open circuit, then measure directly at the sensor. Since its a new temp II sensor, its likely a bad connection, however you need an ohm meter to find where the problem is located.
Your getting LH fault code DTC 1-14 which is covered in WSM Vol 1A, page D24-14. It requires you to use a ohm meter and measure the ohms at pins from the harness at the LH connector. You only need to know the coolant temperature and find the expected ohms that should be read on the meter. Simple.
Your EZK fault code DTC 2-14 is covered in WSM Vol 1A, page D28-7. Same procedure except ohms measured at EZK harness connector.
#4
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Once you have verified the resistances at the ECUs as per above, and they appear to be within the quite wide toleramces given, time to consider other possibilities.
Does the car actually run OK ? Does it have aftermarket chips ?
Does the car actually run OK ? Does it have aftermarket chips ?
#5
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Thread Starter
Ok, just had a chance to take care of this, and I'm sure I'll get laughed at, which is ok.
What was confusing me was the fact that both LH and EZK were tossing the codes and they would not clear on the EZK side. So I went to play with the TempII and the connection was a bit loose, so I tested the sensor, hair drier and all and it came out ok. Put it back in and made sure the connection was solid.
Fixed. Man o man. The hammer had not tossed that code out in the couple of months the car was acting up. Thought it was a fuel delivery issue so checked all of that out, replaced the internal pump (which required three different gas tanks due to the boss stripping out of two).
Now all seems good. Thanks all.
What was confusing me was the fact that both LH and EZK were tossing the codes and they would not clear on the EZK side. So I went to play with the TempII and the connection was a bit loose, so I tested the sensor, hair drier and all and it came out ok. Put it back in and made sure the connection was solid.
Fixed. Man o man. The hammer had not tossed that code out in the couple of months the car was acting up. Thought it was a fuel delivery issue so checked all of that out, replaced the internal pump (which required three different gas tanks due to the boss stripping out of two).
Now all seems good. Thanks all.