M. Requin

Actually, before I join you in a I'll add a serious note of my own: I've completely rewired several sailboats (not that big, the largest was an Alberg 37 yawl) and by completely I mean everything. What I found was that untinned copper was sometimes corroded for yards into the insulation, and that means: a. a lot of resistance; and b. if you wiggled it, it broke. I think there is a huge difference in the two types of wire, at least for marine use, and that opinion is not based on the Ancor rep buying the drinks at the Annapolis Boat Show, back in the day...

Here's what I'm sayin, just a little part:

Hilton

Interesting subject - something that will be needed increasingly for 928's.

Since getting the '87, I've discovered that the electrics in my '89 were in amazingly good condition. Presumably its climate related, as the '87 spent more of its life in damp England. The '87 despite lower mileage has a more brittle harness, and a lot more corrosion on the fuse panel (just removed it to give it the Dave A treatment).

One area of concern is the colouring. Making replacement harnesses is all very well, but to maintain the relevance of the wiring diagrams, the colors and stripes need to remain consistent so the car can be maintained.

The only local source I found that has suitable cable with all the primary/stripe color combinations is this:

http://www.totalsource.com.au/pdfs/H...ble_070109.pdf

Unfortunately, at 500m per reel, it'd need to be a project taken on for commercial purposes rather than a DIY enthusiast.

Did anyone ask Ben Burris where he got his cable from for his project? Its been a long time since I looked in that thread, but I recall he used the correct colors.

SharkSkin

I have found that eagleday.com has metric wire with proper color codes for the projects I've done so far.

Ducman82

http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/wire.aspx

is where i got my wire. some colors they dont have, but i made due. :-)

Jim Devine

I've saved this site for future use as needed. Seems to have
a good selection.

http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/

If temps are a problem, this sleeving is rated high enough to withstand
any automotive use. Looks great for the injector/ sensor harnesses.

http://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=SL

danglerb

Stranded wire, number of strands and size of the wire in the strands is for flexibility and is required for any situation where vibration or other movement of the wire occurs, and has no relation to current capacity below radio frequencies.

Landseer

Thank you for these links.
Especially the second one, for me, a "missing link" for a project of mine.

Ducman82

http://www.firesleeve.com/aerospacesleeve.html

yardpro

I know this is an old thread, but it is cold and raining today, and i have nothing else to do.. so i wanted to force my opinion on everybody....

I TOTALLY agree with all the marine tinned wire recommendations. Also to follow that note, the marine heat shrink connectors are about as good of a splice as you can get. Most marine applications do not recommend soldering connections, as it causes a rigid spot,m and with all the movement in boats and vibrations, etc. they can cause a failure point.
Proper connectors crimped with a QUALITY single or double crimper like an anchor brand will be a lasting, quality connection.