curt_928

Hi everyone...

So this is NOT a thread disproving the general observation that most problems happen soon after repair work...

My fiancee and I were in the 928 yesterday going to have a bite for dinner and I hear a scree scree scree and then Crunk CLUNK.. followed by scrunch scrunch sounds from the drivers real wheel.. I was going to say some choice words, but I knew what happened.

Last week I replaced the rear rotors (cross drilled) with really cool looking ones on ebay. And in doing so I made the newb mistake of NOT releasing the ebrake. So.. I hammer and screw off the old rotors to find the small springs between the ebrake boots hanging freely. I consult the repair manual on CD and it says sagely "replace springs correctly". Duh. So I push them back in so that they hold the ebrake shoes in place and think for a minute... this doesn't seem secure enough... but I push and prod on them and they hold. So I press on the new rotor (fun) by bolting the wheel down and it works.

Now it would appear the ebrake assembly had broken free and is probably imploded. ONly rub is the rotors I bought don't have the handy bolt holes to separate them from the spindles. Banging with mallet did nothing so I'm going to try removing them with the hub and repairing it properly.

Fun. :-) Sorry all.. had to share. And you know when she's the one when she laughs it off and says "that was the first time I driven home in a tow truck after a date. " :-)

Curt
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79 928 5sp silver/blk
02 boxster 5sp blk/blk/blk

linderpat

Curt - she may be a keeper

Mrmerlin

when setting the E brake sping, look at the rear of the backing plates you can see a ridge where the spring should set, this may also help with removal if you cant release the E brakes

dr bob

For those ebrake shoe retainer springs, I used a nut driver that just fit over the OD of the spring. With it you can push, bend.twist, rotate etc the spring to adjust the position and rotation of that hooked tail. As Stan points out, that little hook needs to fit around that little hump to keep it in place. The shoes should be well clear of the rotor when the PB is not engaged.

If the rotor isn't a perfect fit on the hat, you may need to wire-brush the centereing ring on the hat to get all the corrosion off before fitting the rotor. It should be asnug fit, but you should be able to pop the rotor off with a few whacks of the rubber-faced shot-filled mallette. If it's tighter than that you have a problem. It's OK to use anti-sieze on that ring where the rotor slides over, and on the hold-down screws.

JHowell37

What's so cool about these rotors? Post a pic and we'll let you know if it's cool, or just plain douchebaggery.

curt_928

Not just douchebaggery... wannabe douchebaggery. They're not even the 12 inchers, just regular rotors cross drilled. ;-)

Dr. Bob.. yup. I'm thinking a problem.. spent sunday whacking away at it with the rubber mallet.. to no avail. :-( Am thinking I may have to do a more complex I+D involving the spindle at this point. Am thinking maybe even using the dremel around 1 or 2 lugs to give some space and relieve the tension.. Yup fun.

Guys thanks for the responses.. will try to get a pic tomorrow in the sunlight..

Curt