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Old 07-07-2009, 02:50 PM
  #61  
4drgl
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That saab looks fly inside! Nice work! What glue did you use?? I never would have thought of that! But I like it!

Older cars are so much fun to modify! I love the way people drive by and look at the pillars in the windshield, they look and then point and then give thumbs up! It's different! I've learned you don't have to have the biggest engine in the crowd to be different (sometimes it helps)! Just enjoy what you have! Build it up piece by piece and enjoy! It's a fun hobby, when you can keep it affordable!
Old 07-07-2009, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 4drgl
That saab looks fly inside! Nice work! What glue did you use?? I never would have thought of that! But I like it!

Older cars are so much fun to modify! I love the way people drive by and look at the pillars in the windshield, they look and then point and then give thumbs up! It's different! I've learned you don't have to have the biggest engine in the crowd to be different (sometimes it helps)! Just enjoy what you have! Build it up piece by piece and enjoy! It's a fun hobby, when you can keep it affordable!
Thanks, my daughter loves it!
I used 3M '77' glue, but it's not holding up. We have to do it over again and this time I'm going with some stronger upholstery glue from 3M. I'll post results if you're interested.
Old 07-07-2009, 03:15 PM
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Yeah, definitely, send some pics when you get it done!

I used 3M Super 90 at $14 a can multiplied by 6 cans... it was a bit expensive. But it's holding up beautifully! It's been in the car for about 4-5 months now and it sits in the sun all day at her work windows rolled up and it's is holding up very well. I tried 77 with a door pillar first and left it sit in the car for a couple weeks and sure enough it peeled right off from the heat.

I also attempted contact cement on a headliner about 3 cars back and hmm, didn't have such tasteful results. It actually melted the headliner board and turned it into a rubbery nastiness... that headliner never made it into the car!

Trial and error! That's what it's all about! You can get the super 90 at Home Depot. If you're interested
Old 07-07-2009, 04:03 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by 4drgl
Yeah, definitely, send some pics when you get it done!

I used 3M Super 90 at $14 a can multiplied by 6 cans... it was a bit expensive. But it's holding up beautifully! It's been in the car for about 4-5 months now and it sits in the sun all day at her work windows rolled up and it's is holding up very well. I tried 77 with a door pillar first and left it sit in the car for a couple weeks and sure enough it peeled right off from the heat.

I also attempted contact cement on a headliner about 3 cars back and hmm, didn't have such tasteful results. It actually melted the headliner board and turned it into a rubbery nastiness... that headliner never made it into the car!

Trial and error! That's what it's all about! You can get the super 90 at Home Depot. If you're interested
Thanks, I think the Super 90 is the stuff I have now for the next attempt. The 77 seems to have worked everywhere but the rear of the headliner where I may have pulled it up to align it one too many times on the bench while it was drying. The rest is holding on nicely so I may not have to do the whole thing. She still needs the A-pillar pieces (they crack in the Saabs apparently) and I have to do the B and C pillars too. The door inserts came out cool though and she gets lots of compliments on them.

For anyone following along at home: The key to spray glue and these interior items is LOTS and LOTS of pairs of disposable work gloves. Once you get glue on them you have to change them out. Pick up another piece, change gloves. Spray another piece, change gloves. I went through probably two boxes of gloves for the Saab and another whole box when I did the carpet in the 928.
Old 07-07-2009, 05:21 PM
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To add to that make very very sure the plastics/trim pieces are clean... wash with soap water, make sure everything is dry, and clean.
Old 07-08-2009, 01:52 PM
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So my multimeter reads 14.0 vdc at battery terminals with engine on and idling at 900 rpm. Is that a common voltage or should I be looking for 13.4-13.5 engine on like my vw's??

Unless the battery was run down a bit.. which I didn't check and should have prior to starting the motor.
Old 07-09-2009, 01:14 PM
  #67  
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Checked the battery prior to starting last night and it showed 12.5 vdc. It ran for about 5 minutes and quit... The multimeter shows 14vdc engine on and running at the battery. It required no starting fluid to fire last night.

So after the motor shut off (5 minutes give or take a couple) I pulled the ground wires off of the passenger valve cover and presto... apparently the second set of 3 ground wires (bolted to Valve Cover) closest to the firewall the bolt seized in the valve cover... so I extended the ground wire to the front set of grounds and have all six wires grounded at the same point... Until I can pull the valve cover and extract the stud and replace the bolt...

I also cleaned (I assume) the temp sensor wire connections... There are three sensors near the center of the motor directly in front of the intake manifold.... One is close to the oil fill bottle, and stands vertical which was exceptionally corroded. The other one was mounted a bit forward and connected by a 2 wire plug, and there was another just down, mounted horizontal to the motor, also with a 2 wire harness. What are these three sensors?

Also there is a B+ post (terminal) on the passenger fender rail just aft of the radiator with three large guage red wires... I cleaned these as well they were very corroded... What do those feed? I found the ground strap underneath of the motor passenger side leading from the passenger frame rail up to the motor somewhere.. however didn't have time to mess with that one... yet.
Old 07-09-2009, 01:32 PM
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As for the interior... I began removing the center console... I discovered that the piece that holds the hvac controls is removeable... However it is a wire frame that is covered in foam and wrapped with leather.... Has anybody attempted to replicate this piece? I thought it would be made of plastic... but I was wrong! It could be a tad difficult to replicate mine as it's already ruined... the leather and foam has peeled behind the gear selector by the window switches, and is unuseable... Is the console the same deal?? A wire frame with foam surround wrapped in leather??

I didn't have time to take pictures?

Also has anybody had any experience with repairing the clocks?? The original clock seems to not respond to 12vdc, so I have taken it apart and discovered that one of the "round things" not sure what to call it, it looks like a really tiny pop can soldered to the chip board! Sorry for the wonderful description... There are two of those and then one skinny tall thing...

Anyhow one of the round things is different from the other! (excuse my terminology) The cover seems to have popped upward (not off just moved) and I can see all kinds of corrosion where the cover used to sit?? Anybody know what these are called or where to buy them?? It's no problem to remove and solder in a new one but I don't know what the schnell it is??
Old 07-09-2009, 01:35 PM
  #69  
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Sounds like an electrolytic capacitor - can you see any markings on it?

Alan
Old 07-09-2009, 01:39 PM
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Yes, I can read the writing on it... But I forgot the clock this morning on the table... I'm going to run home at lunch and see what it says. It had a silver sticker with red writing on it... That's all I remember right now.

An electrolytic capacitor, how would it go bad?? Got hot, shorted out, wet, what would cause that?? Both electrolytic capacitors (maybe) look the same except the one is taller an I can see corrosion like the top came off?? What would be their function?
Old 07-09-2009, 07:56 PM
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You can borrow my fuel pressure gauge. Are you in socal?
Mine had the same symptoms as yours, it was some serious vacuum leaks. Mine was a huge cluster block of vacuum lines inside of the center console. It came apart. might want to check it maybe?
Old 07-09-2009, 10:20 PM
  #72  
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Old caps are the bane of electronics, without them many things would work forever.

They dry out, leak, corrode, explode, but often its easy to spot them as bad. Many of my old electronics loving friends start projects by replacing all the electrolytic caps.
Old 07-10-2009, 11:10 AM
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Old caps are the bane of electronics, without them many things would work forever.

They dry out, leak, corrode, explode, but often its easy to spot them as bad. Many of my old electronics loving friends start projects by replacing all the electrolytic caps.
Interesting... Well, I un-soldered the capacitor last night and yes the cover had popped off... So I went to radio shack and tried to locate a new one... But to no avail none of the numbers on the capacitor match up. How do I know the difference between an electrolytic capacitor and a typical capacitor.

The capacitor cover says "FARCO, 100/16", but ?? I have no idea what that means or what voltage capacitor to look for? Anybody know that has experience with these things?

BB79 You can borrow my fuel pressure gauge. Are you in socal?
Mine had the same symptoms as yours, it was some serious vacuum leaks. Mine was a huge cluster block of vacuum lines inside of the center console. It came apart. might want to check it maybe?
My neighbor has a pressure gauge that we're going to hook up this weekend and see what's up. I live in Aurora, Colorado. My first thought was vaccum as well, but... to no avail at this point... Aside from just replacing all the vaccum hoses. I will check inside the console as well since I have it apart! I see what looks like a brown box with 4 vac ports on top but no hoses are attached, nor do the hvac controls work...
Old 07-10-2009, 11:38 AM
  #74  
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"Also there is a B+ post (terminal) on the passenger fender rail just aft of the radiator with three large guage red wires... I cleaned these as well they were very corroded... What do those feed? I found the ground strap underneath of the motor passenger side leading from the passenger frame rail up to the motor somewhere.. however didn't have time to mess with that one... yet. "

I hope that you had the battery disconnected while you were cleaning those cables! If not, you were really lucky that you didn't get a major short circuit on the main battery cables.

The main battery cable runs from the positive post on the battery to the large terminal on the starter solenoid. From there a medium-sized red battery cable runs up to the "jump start terminal" on the right fender panel. From this point, the other two medium-sized red cables carry the electrical power to the Central Electric Panel and the rest of the vehicle.

Cleaning the ground strap on the bottom of the engine is a good thing to do.
Old 07-10-2009, 05:48 PM
  #75  
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Well I guess I'm lucky... because I did not have the battery disconnected at that point... my bad...

Usually when disconnecting wiring you would get a spark while disconnecting a B+ wire but I didn't even get a spark or anything off any of the cables while I was disconnecting/connecting them... so what could I have damaged, in that case??

I will check the terminal tonight with key off/key on to see what voltages I find and post back.


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