Easy method for Clutch master cylinder R&R
06-03-2009, 02:01 PM
#31
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Back on topic: Link to Stan's procedure for the engine-in option. Couple this with Dave's bench bleed pics and yer good to go!
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ydraulics.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ydraulics.html
06-03-2009, 02:17 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
if you search i wrote a post about removing the whole assembly from the car to refit new master and slave and bleed it on the bench. takes about an hour and half and since it pre bled no time wasted trying to remove the air that will remain if you try it any other way. Serach for clutch bleeding proceedure
Writeup here.
Stan's original post here.
03-08-2010, 02:24 AM
#33
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Another slave bleed on another car missing its engine.... I got the ziptie count down to two- A Bic pen body is a nice (and much shorter) substitute for holding the slave piston in place while bleeding:
03-08-2010, 08:56 AM
#34
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Nearly all posts on this topic are useful, but the limiting factor on my '86 was ths sound deadener. One other member has mentioned this, but in my case, this was THE factor. Since there is just barely enough room to use any of the "easy" methods, if anything is amiss (like the assembly isn't aligned perfectly, etc.) then it ain't goin' in. My foil/tar sheet couldn't be pressed back, cut or otherwise moved. I'll not risk the flame job regarding how I did it, but I am a fabricator of sorts and we drive the car every day, winter included, and it must be on the road. Better this than an auto with a junk block.
03-08-2010, 01:44 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
10-30-2016, 11:30 AM
#37
Team Owner
since this [popped up again I have new info that should be of value
In the recent past I was made aware of the new flex line for the slave cylinder.
This life time line is made by Greg Brown at Precision motorworks.
The nice part is that it makes bleeding the clutch very easy.
After fitting the new line to slave ,
open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed till no more air.
Remove the slave from the bell housing.
with the fluid inlet port facing up and the slave hanging at the lowest point,
push the push rod into the slave all the way.
Hold like this for about 20 to 30 seconds this will let air bubbles go up the line,
do this sequence a few times then install the slave.
you should now have an operating clutch.
Then with your helper have them do a pedal bleed.
NOTE I suggest to use ATE fluid
hold this
In the recent past I was made aware of the new flex line for the slave cylinder.
This life time line is made by Greg Brown at Precision motorworks.
The nice part is that it makes bleeding the clutch very easy.
After fitting the new line to slave ,
open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed till no more air.
Remove the slave from the bell housing.
with the fluid inlet port facing up and the slave hanging at the lowest point,
push the push rod into the slave all the way.
Hold like this for about 20 to 30 seconds this will let air bubbles go up the line,
do this sequence a few times then install the slave.
you should now have an operating clutch.
Then with your helper have them do a pedal bleed.
NOTE I suggest to use ATE fluid
hold this
10-30-2016, 12:45 PM
#38
Drifting
Remove the slave from the bell housing.
with the fluid inlet port facing up and the slave hanging at the lowest point,
push the push rod into the slave all the way.
Hold like this for about 20 to 30 seconds this will let air bubbles go up the line,
do this sequence a few times then install the slave.
with the fluid inlet port facing up and the slave hanging at the lowest point,
push the push rod into the slave all the way.
Hold like this for about 20 to 30 seconds this will let air bubbles go up the line,
do this sequence a few times then install the slave.
Pull the master piston to let it fill then refit, pump the slave to drive out any air.
Done in minutes.
10-30-2016, 02:45 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
I don't know if this method is already mentioned but I found it extremely difficult to put in the two bolts into the threaded holes of the clutch mc. So I put 2 pieces of M8 threaded ends in th mc before putting the clutch mc in the car. The treaded ends stick through the destined holes in the footwell. There they can be fixed temporarely with M8 nuts and replaced by the bolts one by one.
