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Norcal Rear Wheel Bearing Tech Session - April 25th

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Old 04-30-2009, 10:07 AM
  #31  
AO
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Interesting stuff boys. The one I pulled out had grease and sounded smooth when rotated by hand, but there was a definate groan when driving. The new bearing has cured that.
Old 04-30-2009, 01:52 PM
  #32  
Bill Ball
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Here's clip showing the condition of John's bearing. It was living on borrowed time. Looks like we timed the bearing clinic perfectly!

Old 02-26-2010, 08:03 PM
  #33  
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I just used the b-90-P3 on my 1989 S4. There is a way it can be used WITHOUT removing the ebrake shoes. I am in the southeast so anyone in this area who wants to use the tool...ITS BIG and heavy. We can work something so that the cost is just not on one person. How are you Cali guys sharing the cost??
Old 02-26-2010, 09:36 PM
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dr bob
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I shared the cost. The folks using it are more than generous with their time and tools when other need them. If someone wants to donate to the 'bob needs a lift' fund, that would be OK I guess. get your name on a little plaque or something. Just don't call at midnight needing some late-night lift time...

----

I looked long and hard at the Sir Tools method without pulling the e-brake shoes and decided it's not worth the aggravation. trying to wedge the puller between the hub and the shoes. Takes minutes to remove and install them, plenty to clean and lubricate WYAIT, etc.

FYI, I used a nut driver that just fit over the e-brake spring as my remove and install tool. When reassmbling, the shoes and return springs go on before the actuator is assembled. That way the return spring tension keeps the actuator pieces in place. Less than a minute to do the whole thing.

I think the tool is visiting Bill in the bay area right now.
Old 02-26-2010, 10:28 PM
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Dean:

Dr. bob owns and loans it out. I pay shipping when I borrow it. Thank you, Dr. Bob. I have it again now and just used it for the fourth time.

On one side I could just barely slip the base of the large hub removal frame between the e-brake and back of the hub. So, I was able to leave the e-brake on. On the other side, I couldn't. If the base of that frame were ground down a mm or two, it would fit fine and simplify the job.

I have made a film of the process, but it is not finished. Here's the incomplete draft. Sorry, most of it is rather dry and a bit slow, but it's not intended for Hollywood.

[EDIT - VIDEO REMOVED DUE TO THE FOLLOWING ERROR] - OOPS! SPECIAL NOTICE - THIS VIDEO HAS A SIGNIFICANT ERROR - DO NOT USE PART 13 TO EXTRACT THE BEARING! IT DOES NOT FIT INSIDE THE HUB CARRIER AGAINST THE BEARING. USE 14 OR 8 OR ANY OF THE SMALLER EXTRACTORS. Odd thing is I thought I used part 13 a few times w/o a problem but it clearly did not fit a hub carrier due to the shoulder there that the bearing seats against. So, instead of extracting the bearing from the carrier, it pulled futily against the hub carrier housing. The official instructions call for part 14. I thought 13 would work a bit better, centering more easily, but 13 is too large. 13 works great to install the bearing as shown in teh photo shots above from Dennis. In those shots we did use part 14 for extraction. I am taking the video off-line until I can fix this.
Old 07-07-2012, 08:18 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Mako 928
Yea, but I bet Charlies circlip was'nt as much fun to get out as John's was.
OMG!!!

The left was okay.

The right side was a MOTHER!!!!!!

Got the biggest circlip removal tool at Sears.

Removing has killed it. The bits are bent (bent bits - haha).

I need a bigger/better tool to install the circlips.

Which one did you guys use? Recommendations?
Old 07-08-2012, 02:32 AM
  #37  
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Did you try the Lang 75? It should work. Maybe the bit quality has slipped. I bought a Hi Tech 65 ages ago, which is similar, and it has done the job.

This looks identical to my Hi TEch 65:
http://www.discountfleetsupply.com/kdt3152.html

Here's a bunch:
http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info...nap-ring-plier

This one should be big enough
http://www.handhelditems.com/snap-ri...s-p-57992.html
Old 07-08-2012, 02:33 AM
  #38  
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Trick for me is to "free up" the circlip with a pin drift and a screwdriver before trying the snap ring pliers. I've tried a few different pliers, just looking for one big enough.
Old 07-08-2012, 05:13 PM
  #39  
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Dan,

I also have a huge pair of snap ring pliers I special ordered from Grainger just to do the job. If I knew you'd need them, you could have borrowed them, too.

The clips came off very easy with the big pliers.
Old 07-08-2012, 05:34 PM
  #40  
Rob Edwards
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I bought a pair of ChiCom 16" pliers a few years back, they work perfectly for the rear wheel bearing (and 5-speed front input shaft) circlips.

$40 beans:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-16-Large...ht_1368wt_1393

Old 07-08-2012, 06:56 PM
  #41  
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Picked up some Lisle 49200 Heavy Duty Snap Ring Pliers at NAPA today. Did the trick.
Old 07-08-2012, 07:00 PM
  #42  
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Oh also, when extracting the hub, once it is mostly out, use a bit of 1" wood blocks to keep the tool from pressing out one lug bolt.

Learned this after hub #1.
Old 07-08-2012, 07:30 PM
  #43  
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Ah, I have that one as well. It is smaller than the others I recommended, and it is the one I was using inadvertently when it took us forever to get one of the snap rings out. I forgot I had the other larger tool, which is far better. Anyway, if it works, great!



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