Clearance problem with C&R radiator solved: Banjo fitting for radiator bleed hose
#1
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Clearance problem with C&R radiator solved: Banjo fitting for radiator bleed hose
I was never very happy with my radiator bleed hose rubbing on the hood:
This seems to be a common problem with the C&R radiator -- most people find that it sits a bit high in the mounts. In my case, I was happy with the radiator position and didn't want to lower it -- the seal at the upper edge of the shroud seals snugly against the hood. I asked my brother, who does a lot of prototype machine work, to see if he could modify a banjo fitting to work, and this is what he came up with:
It worked out great, providing for cleaner hose routing:
It also provides plenty of clearance:
This is a very nice piece for a one-off; both parts are stainless and he polished them to a nice shine. All parts started off as solid stainless bar stock -- even the bolt was made from scratch. I'd also like a bolt with NPT threads on the upper end so I can tee in a gauge and schrader valve for pressure testing, and he's looking into it -- that part will most likely be aluminum.
Anyway, it's a small detail, but I just thought I'd share and see what you all think. Slightly more detail here.
This seems to be a common problem with the C&R radiator -- most people find that it sits a bit high in the mounts. In my case, I was happy with the radiator position and didn't want to lower it -- the seal at the upper edge of the shroud seals snugly against the hood. I asked my brother, who does a lot of prototype machine work, to see if he could modify a banjo fitting to work, and this is what he came up with:
It worked out great, providing for cleaner hose routing:
It also provides plenty of clearance:
This is a very nice piece for a one-off; both parts are stainless and he polished them to a nice shine. All parts started off as solid stainless bar stock -- even the bolt was made from scratch. I'd also like a bolt with NPT threads on the upper end so I can tee in a gauge and schrader valve for pressure testing, and he's looking into it -- that part will most likely be aluminum.
Anyway, it's a small detail, but I just thought I'd share and see what you all think. Slightly more detail here.
#3
What is the thread size of that fitting? I've been thinking of trying to find something similar at my local hydraulic shop, but always forget the original fitting.
Cheers
Cheers
#5
Team Owner
now why didnt Porsche think of that.......... Ahh i guess that should be why didnt Behr think of that.
Dave you can now corner the market , as virtually every car could use this part
Dave you can now corner the market , as virtually every car could use this part
#7
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Thanks Colin! Kind of makes me want to clean up the rest of the engine bay to match.
I don't know the exact thread, but he searched high and low for a banjo bolt/fitting that was close enough to start with. It seems that all banjo bolts that are available through common channels have a much finer thread.
I gave him a cut-off piece of plastic end tank that had the female thread in it so he could verify it would work there too, but the fitting sits much lower on the original rad. In that case I would imagine that the main motivation would be to clean up the hose routing and/or eliminate the formed hose and use bulk heater hose instead. The savings of using bulk hose vs the ~$35 formed hose would partially offset the cost of the part.
This was a one-off, probably too labor-intensive for mass production. The main killer here is the labor involved in silver-soldering the barb to the housing. To mass-produce he would probably change the design so that it is either one piece with no join, or thread the barb. More likely the former.
I have not asked permission to set up a group buy, and have no cost information for a production part at this time. As with all such custom items, quantity drives down cost.
How many would be interested in a fitting as shown?
How many would be interested in a second bolt with NPT threads on top to make a pressure tester? Using this approach to pressure testing allows you to check the cap along with the rest of the system, assuring that it holds to spec. pressure then releases as designed -- something that can't be done with a conventional tester that installs in place of the cap.
How many would be interested in both of the above, plus the tee, gauge, and schrader valve for a complete kit?
I'm thinking that a check valve inline with the schrader, or a small shutoff, might be desirable for those using a bicycle pump for pressure testing, so you could prevent flow of coolant into the pump. Since I would be using an air compressor with a tire chuck it's a non-issue for me, I wouldn't need this but some might want it?
This was a one-off, probably too labor-intensive for mass production. The main killer here is the labor involved in silver-soldering the barb to the housing. To mass-produce he would probably change the design so that it is either one piece with no join, or thread the barb. More likely the former.
I have not asked permission to set up a group buy, and have no cost information for a production part at this time. As with all such custom items, quantity drives down cost.
How many would be interested in a fitting as shown?
How many would be interested in a second bolt with NPT threads on top to make a pressure tester? Using this approach to pressure testing allows you to check the cap along with the rest of the system, assuring that it holds to spec. pressure then releases as designed -- something that can't be done with a conventional tester that installs in place of the cap.
How many would be interested in both of the above, plus the tee, gauge, and schrader valve for a complete kit?
I'm thinking that a check valve inline with the schrader, or a small shutoff, might be desirable for those using a bicycle pump for pressure testing, so you could prevent flow of coolant into the pump. Since I would be using an air compressor with a tire chuck it's a non-issue for me, I wouldn't need this but some might want it?
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Might want to ping Mark Anderson to see if he wants to include the 90 deg adapter in his AL radiator kits.
PS. Don't try and use generic hose for the overflow. It leaks cause the hose does not like going through a 90 deg bend, being squashed by the hood, and try and fasten to the radiator. I think I killed a clamp trying to tighten the generic hose down so it would not bubble coolant at the radiator join.
PS. Don't try and use generic hose for the overflow. It leaks cause the hose does not like going through a 90 deg bend, being squashed by the hood, and try and fasten to the radiator. I think I killed a clamp trying to tighten the generic hose down so it would not bubble coolant at the radiator join.
#12
I found out... Its M10x1.5. Over here in the UK I can get a M10x1.5 banjo bolt and M10 banjo with an 8mm barbed fitting off the shelf. I'll get one and see if it works.
Ben
Ben
#13
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Ben, IIRC the problem we ran into with the M10x1.5 banjo bolts(I looked up the size and it jogged my memory) was that they were not long enough to properly engage the threads in the radiator bung. The original nipple seals inside the bung with an O-ring, so the threads start about where the standard bolt(For brake applications, IIRC) leaves off. Also I think there were some questions about finding the correct size sealing washer, and we agreed that o-rings would be preferred since that approach also works on the plastic end tank.
Last edited by SharkSkin; 03-30-2009 at 09:34 PM.