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Cambridge, MA. If you got the bolts, I am a buyer. Does the stand fit on the back seat of a 5-series bimmer? PM me, please.
Hi Tuomo, I have a business right in Cambridge (mass ave central sq) and live in the Navy Yard, so we're pretty much neighbors. I'd enjoy seeing your car and the progress on your engine build some time! I also have a few projects for my own '87 S4 that I'm learning as I go. Cheers, Chris
Hi Tuomo, I have a business right in Cambridge (mass ave central sq) and live in the Navy Yard, so we're pretty much neighbors. I'd enjoy seeing your car and the progress on your engine build some time! I also have a few projects for my own '87 S4 that I'm learning as I go. Cheers, Chris
Though that price is nearly $100 more than I paid in December. Weird.
It makes engine disassembly a piece of cake, just turn the crank and voilia, there's your bottom end. More importantly, no drama when rotating a very top heavy S4 motor. The downside is that you'll need to source some M10 x 1.25 mm allthread to make up bolts to mount the motor, as the standoffs on the stand are longer than any available fine pitch M10 bolt you're likely to find:
EDIT: If Tass is nearby that is certainly the best solution!
I have what I think is the same stand, mine says Snap-On but I bet it is the same unit.
The cam bolts from a Cayenne are perfect for that stand and the two top bolts, you can just use longer stock bolts for the bottom.
Great stand, and I have used the other types, the geared type is my choice.
I looked all over today for some grae 8.8 M10 x1.25 x120mm length. Finally found them at a LOWES of all places... Got home this evening and found that it's not an M10 1.25 bolt for the top holes in the bellhousing. (too small)..Oh well. I'm assuming it is an M12 1.25 bolt size/thread... Anybody got an affirmative on that? Off to look at the manuals now...
Even that will bounce a bit with the entire assembled engine on it.
I have to disagree with Rob on this one. The HF is usually less than $100 (buy it with a 20% off coupon) and you cant beat it. As for the gearing rotation, honestly.... I dont see why you need this. You either have the engine right side up, or upside down. I dont really think there is any reason to have it in any other position. Now when you rotate the FULL engine you COULD lose it. But When i pull an engine, it goes onto the stand. If i tear it down or am doing any work, the heads come off before i ever try and move it from straight up and down. Its too tall otherwise and could very easily tip.
I really done see the need for the gearing rotation. Also I think the legs on the 2000lb HF stand give it a larger footprint then the one Rob has. (although the leg section of the geared stand is larger in the rear part of the stand, there isnt as much weight on those 2 casters as there is on the front.) Now maybe the ideal stand is the HF 2000lb base with the upper that he has, but again, i think with the last engine, i had it level, removed heads, turned it upside down, when you pull pistons you may want to change the angle but your now working with just a short block and the non geared version requires you to loosen a bolt, rotate then tighten bolt, its really simple.
I picked up an expensive one at Northern Tool because they're here in town. If you intend to use it often, I'd definitely spend extra on a stouter stand. The one I had held a fully dressed (Ford) 302 engine, but after the heads and intake went on, it became a two person job to rotate the engine around.
Get the big stand with the fold-up legs. You won't regret it.
A crank would be nice because these engines are really top-heavy on the stand. Hard to go from upside down to rightside-up.
The bolts for the upper holes are 12mm x 1.5mm. The Porsche engineers can use whatever they want and they picked bolts that aren't available in the US. Fine threads are 1.25mm and coarse are 1.75...at least in a "better" hardware store that has both. The bolts I use hold the front lower control arms on. Had them laying around. Good luck.
Found 12mm x 1.5mm X 100mm, and the nuts at ACE Hardware. Its a stocking item. I ended up getting 12mm x 1.5mm x 90mm because it saved me some washers with the 1000lb HF stand 2" standoffs... The 100mm length bolts are $5.20 each. The 90mm were $3.70. I used 1/2-13 x 4.5" inch bolts for the bottom 2 standoffs. They were $1.50 each... The length all depends on the length of your particular standoffs.
Last edited by 86'928S MeteorGrey; 05-01-2009 at 09:24 PM.
I recently acquired a new very sturdy motor stand of course made in China as everything else these days. It is good for 2000 lbs and has four "feet" that can be winded down for added stability. It also has a small box for tools and/or small parts. Furthermore below the engine a plastic container for oil. The price was very good and it can be folded up when not in use.
Åke
I went to Fastenal, 12x1.50mm 10 inch long bolts my worry is the sleeves on the Stand are too wide, I like my Bolts to fit snuggly into the respective holes. All my stands I heavily modify to not rock, and not fold up. I like the geared end tho! A Cummins 5.9 diesel I hung in a stand - I knew it would fold up, so, I released about 40% of its weight and saw it struggle, heavily modified it and it held it like a champ! When I was done it sold immediately on CL!
Very nice stand. Love those hand cranked stoppers, great idea.
Regarding Chinese made stands (all HarborFrieght in the US are made there), many have recommended to upgrade the bolts/nuts to high grade, due to those being the weak point of the stand, as experienced by the buyers.
Originally Posted by Strosek Ultra
I recently acquired a new very sturdy motor stand of course made in China as everything else these days. It is good for 2000 lbs and has four "feet" that can be winded down for added stability. It also has a small box for tools and/or small parts. Furthermore below the engine a plastic container for oil. The price was very good and it can be folded up when not in use.
Åke
03-20-2009, 05:52 PM
