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Washer Fluid Tk Clean, Remove Rusty Fittings, Pump repair

 
Old 08-24-2009, 10:30 PM
  #31  
nsantolick
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Got to love the complexity of this car. I'm about to do whatever it takes to restore all washing systems in my car. As of now, only the headlamp washers work, and god, do I love them. Sooooo cool...

I'm not certain, but doubt that the intensive cycle washer doesn't work. Where do you find that special fluid for sale anyway?

The window washer doesn't work. I see a broken connector near the hood of the car, but don't seem to get any fluid through the system in the first place.

These units all have fluid heater units too, don't they?

Ahhhhhhhh. Where to begin???

While I'm at it, I've got to fix the rear wiper. It worked fine, until I decided to turn it on during a very powerful drying cycle at the brushless car wash. The force of the air was enough to break it. The wiper now moves freely, and the motor just makes a noise. With the rear decklid open, I see I can move the (whatever you call the part that is in the deck lid) moving with a little resistance. I suppose I stripped something... Oh well...

I take it that the washer motor job can easily eat up a day or two, on it's own? Is there any upgrade that I should consider while I'm in there? I'd just assume replace anything that's worn...










Nick - 89S4
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Old 08-24-2009, 11:29 PM
  #32  
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Yeh, the washer motor job is likely a day's effort if you've got everything ready to install when you break it down. I'm referring to replacing the pumps, removing the main tank for cleaning, cutting out those rusted metal inserts, etc. in the front pass. fender. I didn't replace all my hoses that service the nozzles on the hood like some others have done as mine seem to be doing alright at the moment. That, however, is something you might want to consider doing since you've got to replace that (commonly) broken connector where the lines enter the hood.

I think you will find the main tank to be your problem. After getting those metal inserts out, be sure to re-install the rubber hose (leading from the fill spout to the tank) with a delicate touch; not to over tighten and crush the plastic tank. Cleaning can be achieved by using a good cleaner with a little bleach to kill the algae, and some sand gravel to scour the inside surface.

I simply ordered all new pumps since I didn't want to have to worry about an inoperable system 2yrs down the road and have to tear it all down again.
Also, while you're in there, be sure to look closely at the plastic "Y" connector that services the fuel exhaust/charcoal canister. These commonly break. Nicole (HookedOnCars) sells a stainless steel replacement that is a permanent fix to the problem. (no affiliation).

Check the tank/pump at the base of your windshield on the driver's side. Make sure that the rubber grommet that seals the pump in the tank is not toast. Due to the engine heat and it being a 20yr old car, they often need replacing. The pump simply pulls out of the tank with some convincing.

I'm not sure about the heater. I don't believe my car has one; though I may be wrong....never came across one while I was doing my repairs.

My apologies, but I can't help you with the rear wiper. I've never had to service mine.

Hope this helps a bit.
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Old 08-25-2009, 03:58 AM
  #33  
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if you need a diagram of the fluid lines for the hood try looking at the Porsche PET nice diagram.
There is also a replacement part that has a new cap and the 2 hose fittings that connect the intensive washer and the W Washer to the squirter.
The new cap allows the harness to be installed without any damage to the connectors, as it has a cutout for the connector to pass through, the old cap is damaged when its removed.

For the intensive washer you can add some car soap and water to the tank. you dont need much. The intensive washer is actuated with the push button on the under side of the POD
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Old 08-25-2009, 11:56 AM
  #34  
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On the rear wiper - try tightening the nut on the wiper arm.

When you start repairing the washer system, disconnect the tubes from the hood nozzles, tie a string to the driver's side tubes, and leave the string in the hood as you pull the tubes out. This gives you a way to pull the tubes back thru the hood.

Test the little check valves by sucking/blowing thru them - they stick shut.

The Porsche Intensive Wash fluid works well, but it is expensive. It removes road film very well.
Windshield Washer - Intensive Fluid; '77-'95; P/N 000.044.000.93; $16.69
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:09 AM
  #35  
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What works best for removing caked-on rust from the washer tank? All was well until I went to add some fluid, and the rusted collars flooded the bottle with a rusty residue that coated the inside of the tank. Tried small stones + various cleaners with no luck. If I was to buy a new tank, would it come with a metal collar installed?
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:14 AM
  #36  
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Funny. I'm doing another one right now from Jadz' Euro. Very messy. Have a mixture of detergent, clorox, water and a pound of plastic coated deck screws to shake around.
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:18 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Opelotus View Post
What works best for removing caked-on rust from the washer tank? All was well until I went to add some fluid, and the rusted collars flooded the bottle with a rusty residue that coated the inside of the tank. Tried small stones + various cleaners with no luck. If I was to buy a new tank, would it come with a metal collar installed?
Muratic Acid will remove rust and should be safe on the tank since they sell it in plastic jugs. CLR might work too. I'm sure you should be able to clean up the existing tank without having to resort to buying a new one. Post the results please.
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:42 AM
  #38  
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I used a strong cleaning solution, sand, small pebbles and it worked well for me. The sand (with small pebbles) I think did better than just pebbles alone as the sand scours the surface a bit better.
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:47 AM
  #39  
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Thanks, I will give it another try. Also, one of the hose connectors on the top of the tank broke off somehow, but I think I can drill it out and glue in a vacuum hose adapter or similar so I won't have to buy a new tank.
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:21 PM
  #40  
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Thanks for the help, you guys are awesome! I wasn't sure it would work but it did! I used 1/2 can of PB B'laster and a handful of sand. Plugged up the various holes with whatever I could find (rubber fishing lures work great on the small ports). Shook it all up and the tank was 99% cleaned in no time!!! I did manage to break the steel liner out of the tank, still have to do the filler neck.

The gasket on the washer fluid level sender unit is toast, what's a good substitute?
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:05 AM
  #41  
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I'm glad you had success in cleaning the unit. When I pulled my unit out I just ordered replacement gaskets/seals where needed generally. I'm not sure of the specific gasket to which you are referring, however.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:31 AM
  #42  
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I was referring to the gasket that seals the washer fluid level sensor to the washer tank. There is a large plastic nut on it with a hole in the middle for the sensor wires. I actually found an O-ring to replace the gasket with, works like a charm.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:34 AM
  #43  
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Terrific.
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:44 AM
  #44  
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It is quite nice to have working sprayers now, its been a year without them!
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:41 PM
  #45  
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Where do I get washer hose diagram and info for 1979-928--what is PET? Sorry for lack of knowledge !!
Also check valve and hose configuration please
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