Hood Removal, Liner Repair, installation procedure (w/pics)
#31
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2011
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Dry off the excess water with a towel. Your installed decal should look something like this.
Attachment 334723
Dwayne,
Have you had any issues with bubbles or pull up areas on yours over time. I have had a hard time getting mine to stick down everywhere and thought about a dryer to heat local areas up... your thoughts?
Update... Used the same plastic shinker I use for wine bottles to smooth out non perfect areas... Looks perfect now...
Last edited by Spun; 05-28-2012 at 09:40 PM.
#33
Nordschleife Master
Dwayne, just imported the pics and text in to a Word Doc and printed it out so that the body shop that did the work on my '95 (but didn't put a new hood pad on at the time) can put this on CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME! What are the chances of that happening????
I'll keep you all posted and will post pics when done...right or wrong!
My crest and "928" are LIME GREEN! SO COOL! Thanks to Nicole and Rob Budd on this one!
Lets all cross our fingers that this will go well!
I'll keep you all posted and will post pics when done...right or wrong!
My crest and "928" are LIME GREEN! SO COOL! Thanks to Nicole and Rob Budd on this one!
Lets all cross our fingers that this will go well!
#34
First – a great write-up by Dwayne. This level of detail provides a lot of confidence when starting out.
I replaced my hood insulation 2 weeks ago, sourcing the replacement from Carl at 928 Motorsports.
I was able to complete the job while leaving the hood on the car. I had several boxes of 3M clear window plastic (usually used to shore up drafty windows in the winter) in the shop. I covered the entire engine bay with the clear film, taking a few minutes to shrink the plastic with a heat gun. I used painter’s tape to hold the edges of the film; best of all the tape pulled right up without leaving residue or even a shadow mark once I’d finished removing the old liner. The tape-clear film combo worked quite well and kept all of the old hood liner and all of the old adhesive out of the engine bay. Regardless of which method you choose, it is VERY important not to let the old hood liner bits down into the nooks and crannies of the engine. My old liner was so saturated I’m surprised it didn’t catch fire. Little bits of this all over the header pipes is not a good risk.
Otherwise, just follow Dwayne’s instructions. It’s a nice upgrade. I was surprised at how much cleaner the entire engine bay looks without that crappy old hood liner. It took me only about 2 ½ hours – time very well spent.
Thanks as always to prior posters in this thread for help & encouragement!
I replaced my hood insulation 2 weeks ago, sourcing the replacement from Carl at 928 Motorsports.
I was able to complete the job while leaving the hood on the car. I had several boxes of 3M clear window plastic (usually used to shore up drafty windows in the winter) in the shop. I covered the entire engine bay with the clear film, taking a few minutes to shrink the plastic with a heat gun. I used painter’s tape to hold the edges of the film; best of all the tape pulled right up without leaving residue or even a shadow mark once I’d finished removing the old liner. The tape-clear film combo worked quite well and kept all of the old hood liner and all of the old adhesive out of the engine bay. Regardless of which method you choose, it is VERY important not to let the old hood liner bits down into the nooks and crannies of the engine. My old liner was so saturated I’m surprised it didn’t catch fire. Little bits of this all over the header pipes is not a good risk.
Otherwise, just follow Dwayne’s instructions. It’s a nice upgrade. I was surprised at how much cleaner the entire engine bay looks without that crappy old hood liner. It took me only about 2 ½ hours – time very well spent.
Thanks as always to prior posters in this thread for help & encouragement!
#35
1986.5 Porsche 928 Hood Alignment
Dwayne - Does the front of the hood touch the seal/bead between the front bumper and the hood? Is this correct?
I have the hood all the way aft in terms of the adjusting bolts and the hood remains in contact with the rubber/plastic bumper seal.
Thanks for providing any insight.
I have the hood all the way aft in terms of the adjusting bolts and the hood remains in contact with the rubber/plastic bumper seal.
Thanks for providing any insight.
#36
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Dwayne - Does the front of the hood touch the seal/bead between the front bumper and the hood? Is this correct?
I have the hood all the way aft in terms of the adjusting bolts and the hood remains in contact with the rubber/plastic bumper seal.
Thanks for providing any insight.
I have the hood all the way aft in terms of the adjusting bolts and the hood remains in contact with the rubber/plastic bumper seal.
Thanks for providing any insight.
The hood does not actually touch the seal/bead between the front bumper and the hood. I just checked some of mine and the space between the hood and seal is very small and is approximately 1/32".
I don't recall if the hinge mounting to the body allows for any adjustment but it may be worth having a look. Also, the front bumper cover may have some adjustment available to give a little more room as well.
How much in contact is the hood with the seal? e.g., difficult to close the hood or just slightly touching?
#37
Racer
The nitrile liners are commonly sold in 1/4" and 1/2" thicknesses. Can anyone with those kind of liners say anything about their level of satisfaction with the thickness they chose to install?
Last edited by silbershark; 12-18-2016 at 03:45 AM.