Air temp sender test proceedure ?
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
Rob,
No it doesn't go away after a minute or two, it has to be shut down and cooled off over night, then while
the mtr is running cool everything is fine until it's at full warm up and has been turned off and a restart is tried -- then it has the low idle and wants to die if I don't give it gas. As I mentioned earlier it doesn't
do it all the time, it's intermittent, I think a sensor is dying a slow death and I don't know which sensor
it is. I read on the ISV thread that the ISV can be an intermittent problem, maybe I need to revisit that
neighborhood ? Yes your problem sounds like a vacuum leak, as the metal expands with heat the gap grows. You might try to spray some starter fluid onto suspected leak areas while the mtr is running, if
you hit the leak spot the idle will jump immediately. You'd need an extra long straw tube on the spray bottle to be able to access the hard to get at areas. I think I'm going to try the advice from Mrmerlin
first on my car then I'll go back after the ISV -- Thanks for chimming in -- good luck on yours..
No it doesn't go away after a minute or two, it has to be shut down and cooled off over night, then while
the mtr is running cool everything is fine until it's at full warm up and has been turned off and a restart is tried -- then it has the low idle and wants to die if I don't give it gas. As I mentioned earlier it doesn't
do it all the time, it's intermittent, I think a sensor is dying a slow death and I don't know which sensor
it is. I read on the ISV thread that the ISV can be an intermittent problem, maybe I need to revisit that
neighborhood ? Yes your problem sounds like a vacuum leak, as the metal expands with heat the gap grows. You might try to spray some starter fluid onto suspected leak areas while the mtr is running, if
you hit the leak spot the idle will jump immediately. You'd need an extra long straw tube on the spray bottle to be able to access the hard to get at areas. I think I'm going to try the advice from Mrmerlin
first on my car then I'll go back after the ISV -- Thanks for chimming in -- good luck on yours..
#17
Team Owner
Warning have a fire extinguisher handy while spraying flammable liquid on a running motor, it will only take one errant spark from a worn ignition wire to cause a fire. To test for ignition leaks its free open the hood at night start the car and look fior leaks, it will be obvious
#18
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville and sometimes St. Aug Beach, FL
Posts: 1,727
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Joe-
Your symptoms are a lot like mine after I did my intake R&R. Cold starts are fine, car idles right at 800 rpm. (After it warms up to normal temps (185oF at the lower rad hose), the idle inches up to 1100 rpm, I know I still have a vacuum leak under the intake somewhere.....) Recent Intake R&R, new ISV, cleaned injectors, yadda yadda.
After driving 5-200 miles, upon re-starting with a warm engine, the idle is unsteady, 400-500 rpm and stumbly, won't rev well at all, though mine won't stall. After 1-2 minutes of this, all of a sudden the idle returns to normal (~1000 rpm, as it's already warm), like someone flipped a switch somewhere. I replaced the temp II sensor on the coolant bridge to no effect.
Does your stumble go away after a minute or 2?
Your symptoms are a lot like mine after I did my intake R&R. Cold starts are fine, car idles right at 800 rpm. (After it warms up to normal temps (185oF at the lower rad hose), the idle inches up to 1100 rpm, I know I still have a vacuum leak under the intake somewhere.....) Recent Intake R&R, new ISV, cleaned injectors, yadda yadda.
After driving 5-200 miles, upon re-starting with a warm engine, the idle is unsteady, 400-500 rpm and stumbly, won't rev well at all, though mine won't stall. After 1-2 minutes of this, all of a sudden the idle returns to normal (~1000 rpm, as it's already warm), like someone flipped a switch somewhere. I replaced the temp II sensor on the coolant bridge to no effect.
Does your stumble go away after a minute or 2?