90 GT No spark (thanks Rog, I was wishing)
10-16-2008, 11:31 AM
#32
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Doc--
You can do a simple test with your 'scope to see ignition pulses. Wrap a piece of common copper hookup wire around the coil wire, maybe four or five turns. Hook a scope probe to that, and crank the engine. Poor-man's inductive pickup. That way you'll be able to see if the coil is generating all four spark signals. You'll get to manually adjust the time-base and you won't have a sync, so twist the ***** appropriately. If you have a spare plug wire, put a plug in the end of it and the other end into the coil nose. Ground the plug body of course before cranking. With your pickup loop on that wire, you'll take the cap and rotor out of the selection set for problems.
You can do a simple test with your 'scope to see ignition pulses. Wrap a piece of common copper hookup wire around the coil wire, maybe four or five turns. Hook a scope probe to that, and crank the engine. Poor-man's inductive pickup. That way you'll be able to see if the coil is generating all four spark signals. You'll get to manually adjust the time-base and you won't have a sync, so twist the ***** appropriately. If you have a spare plug wire, put a plug in the end of it and the other end into the coil nose. Ground the plug body of course before cranking. With your pickup loop on that wire, you'll take the cap and rotor out of the selection set for problems.
10-16-2008, 01:47 PM
#33
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We did bypass the ign monitoring circuit, 2/4/5 with no change.
Bob, we tried that and do have fire coming from the coil. I thought it was possible that it was a bad coil (concentrated on the passenger bank) and wasn't sending enough zap out, so we swapped it a couple of times. It does light the plug up good.
Pulled and rechecked the speed sensor, put back in, tied everything back up and
swapped in some working final stage amps a little bit ago. No change. I dunno. I'm going to let Doc work his magic abilities with this 'scope tomorrow.
Bob, we tried that and do have fire coming from the coil. I thought it was possible that it was a bad coil (concentrated on the passenger bank) and wasn't sending enough zap out, so we swapped it a couple of times. It does light the plug up good.
Pulled and rechecked the speed sensor, put back in, tied everything back up and
swapped in some working final stage amps a little bit ago. No change. I dunno. I'm going to let Doc work his magic abilities with this 'scope tomorrow.
10-16-2008, 02:40 PM
#34
Nordschleife Master
SeanR, I haven't seen you answer Louie's question yet.
Are the camshafts actually turning?
Maybe you installed the porkensioner, and forgot to pull the pin on it so the belt is loose and not spinning the cams. I know its a horrible thought, but it would explain it.
Are the camshafts actually turning?
Maybe you installed the porkensioner, and forgot to pull the pin on it so the belt is loose and not spinning the cams. I know its a horrible thought, but it would explain it.
10-16-2008, 03:32 PM
#35
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I'm going to assume (I know ***) that they are turning. We didn't upgrade to the Porkensioner but before we put it in the car we timed the cams, put the belt on, spun it a few dozen times. I can see the belt turning and I don't hear anything tapping inside.
When we pulled the rotors on the passenger side the cam gear was solid.
Interesting thought on that.
10-16-2008, 04:11 PM
#36
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Put the hammer on with new brain and Hammer shows all parts working as required. Can't test EZK due to non-running condition, but it does show up as a working component.
I'll jump ahead now to what we have now. Spark only on #4 and #5 cylinders. That tells us that the EZK is not getting a proper signal from the speed sensor, speed sensor is new, compared to the working old one and they are the same. We've tested the final ignition loop, continuity from the EZK to all connected components. Tested all LH loops.
I had a similar problem last year and it turned out that the BZK was interfering with the EZK. Make sure you didn't cross them, the B and the E look alike after a little wear.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
10-16-2008, 04:16 PM
#37
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LMFAO 
Why not bypass thru the MDK terminal; the left cover comes off.
If 4 is firing then 6 should be firing unless the phillip rotor port cap cover is loose. Have you checked that?
I had a similar problem last year and it turned out that the BZK was interfering with the EZK. Make sure you didn't cross them, the B and the E look alike after a little wear.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
If 4 is firing then 6 should be firing unless the phillip rotor port cap cover is loose. Have you checked that?
I had a similar problem last year and it turned out that the BZK was interfering with the EZK. Make sure you didn't cross them, the B and the E look alike after a little wear.
Let me know if I can be of further help.
10-16-2008, 04:18 PM
#38
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So, the motor has just been dropped-in. I assume the clutch assembly was removed to R&R the motor.
Did you remove the flywheel?
Did you remove the flywheel?
10-16-2008, 04:22 PM
#39
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Yup, it all came apart, it was a full rebuild. That was one thing Doc was saying last night that he had the flywheel redone. Not sure about that.
10-16-2008, 04:27 PM
#40
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We don't know right now if the cams are turning since it fired on Wed. Sean is going to check. If they aren't, I'm not going to be a happy camper. It's a good possibility, I missed the post yesterday evening.
10-16-2008, 04:29 PM
#41
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Ok, no cams moving. I guess I'll be parting it out. The valves will have to be replaced before the heads sell.
10-16-2008, 04:35 PM
#42
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Well, looks like we do have an issue.
The cams are NOT turning. Belt is tight. Now the only thing I can come up with is the woodruf key snapped somehow. It turned just fine before we put it in the car.
This is weird.
The cams are NOT turning. Belt is tight. Now the only thing I can come up with is the woodruf key snapped somehow. It turned just fine before we put it in the car.
This is weird.
10-16-2008, 04:50 PM
#43
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