Intermediate ring adjustment
 

I had recently corrected a guide tube fault with my clutch. Upon re-assembly I have a REAL bad clutch drag. I can't even put it into gear without grinding it.

Reading over the manual I can't find any adjustment to the intermediate plate. in section 30-6. I suspect it is dragging causing the trouble. Clutch slave travel seems good.

I should note that when I was performing the guide tube work, the clutch was never removed totally from the car, but I had removed the bolts securing the pressure plate to the fly wheel.

Any suggestions that can be done without totally removing the clutch would be very helpful.

I have long tube MSDS headers which prevent me from removing the clutch assembly. Who ever came up with that design should be shot!:mad:

Thanks everyone!

At the risk of miring you in the middle of an argument....here you go....

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/452227-clutch-adjustment-on-2-plate-ers.html

U R da man!

Thanks!

:thumbup:

JR, I will be heading over to victoria sometime this week hopefully.

If you would like to meet up I would be more than happen to help you adjust your intermediate plate.

You are welcome to swing by!

I will be adjusting it tomorrow night and have it done I hope.

My address is still the same at 1036 El Paseo.

I might be in the hospital with my wife though. We're expecting her to deliver our first any day now!

I can show you my new 914 project. Just got a 3.6 for it last week.

check out my post. you will need to cut a small hole in the bell housing. a dremel will work. once you do this , adjustment to fix the problem is simple.

mk

People have been adjusting clutches on these cars for over 30 years without cutting any holes.

It's just one way of doing it. :banghead:

Holes are the ONLY way to do this, if you have MSDS headers. If not, you have to drop the bell housing which is a tiny bit of work.

by the way, most have the litle inspection hole for the slave shaft. a simlar sized hole near the flywheel area would be all that would be needed.

besides I like inspection holes! :)

Mk

Thanks Mark... Actually I have a BIG hole already.

In order to remove the clutch cover I had two choices
1. Remove the header pipes
2. Cut the clutch cover in half

Option one makes me feel like driving off a cliff, so I chose option two. Right now I have the starter half of the cover off and it will make adustment very easy.

I will install bolt on briding between the two halfs to help restore some of it's original strength.

Thanks for your thread, I will be under the car tonight checking that adjustment. Maybe then it won't drag anymore.

I havent heard of this one! send a few pictures our way.

Dont mind the Brendan polution toward the end of the thread, but before that, i was reporting every angle that i could to help others that might have issues.
mk

Not that I'm particularly proud of bastardizing my cover this way, but it was a necessary evil or spend days removing and reinstalling the exhaust system. The cuts were pretty rough as I was trying to squeeze my zip cutter in between the exhaust.

Here are the pics...

http://www.jamesrenfrew.com/ftp/inco...p/dsc02897.jpghttp://www.jamesrenfrew.com/ftp/inco...p/dsc02896.jpg

The red dots indicate where I am putting brackets to give it more strength. I will plate the front face of it with 6 bolts, which I hope should help transfer the torque of the starter motor through the case.

Well I'll have to call it the miracle millimeter!

Shifts great now. A couple of them were about 0.3mm (by eye) and that was enough to screw it all up.

Hey, I love this creativity, but some will ..... well, you know.

If anyone knows how hard it is to take those headers off, they would agree that this should be an accessory for the MSDS headers!

mk