Phenolic S3 Intake spacer?
#31
My S4 intake is long gone. You can have anything I have designed, but the port side of my flange is only round right now - and it would need to be hand ported to match.
But here we have Mr. Ken who has a nearly perfect match to the S3 port, which is only a bit different from the S4 intake port, but has that nice divit already designed in.
#32
Are you thinking of making lower/upper plenum and leg spacers for the S4+ intake?
No, I'm making a whole new int manifold from scratch and need to start
with the intake flanges just like Brendan is doing in his (screw it ) thread.
No, I'm making a whole new int manifold from scratch and need to start
with the intake flanges just like Brendan is doing in his (screw it ) thread.
#33
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I don't have a plotter, so I can't compare it to the gasket, but I think I fixed the offset errors.
YGWYPF, YRMV, YMMV.
http://members.rennlist.org/porken/S3Intake.zip
YGWYPF, YRMV, YMMV.
http://members.rennlist.org/porken/S3Intake.zip
Last edited by PorKen; 09-07-2008 at 07:48 PM.
#34
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I think next time I order some laser cutting, I'll have half a gasket made in 1/8"+ steel. I can bolt that to the intake, and use it as a guide for gasket match grinding.
#35
Thanks Ken.
#36
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I zipped the DXF so the server doesn't puke on it.
Looking at PET, I wonder if the S4's thick gasket, and spacers between the nuts and manifold are for anti-vibration (like the S3's rubber buffers), or insulation, or both?
Looking at PET, I wonder if the S4's thick gasket, and spacers between the nuts and manifold are for anti-vibration (like the S3's rubber buffers), or insulation, or both?
#37
Well, its clear they were concerned over intake manifold temp, since they have a sensor in the S4 manifold for temp, and its tied into the twin fans.
#38
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when they used a one piece manifold I think they felt they needed to allow movement for the expansion contraction of the block ....
#39
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You can see most all the cold intake tricks here.
Intake spacers
No rear hood seal
Radiator(s) covered
Crank vented to atmo
Fuel damper/regulator brackets removed
Split rubber hose over the front metal fuel line
#40
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The intake manifold legs were 40-50°F cooler than the head (IR gun), and it was 90°F out, today. (Unfortunately, I never wrote down what they were before. ) The metal gas lines were cool to the touch.
Definately makes a difference in torque on a hot day. I had the A/C on, and it still chirped the tires when it kicked down as I was getting around someone in city traffic.
I could launch from a dead stop, and the knock light never lit up - with the A/C on!
I still plan on running a hose from behind the engine and blow into the valley.
Definately makes a difference in torque on a hot day. I had the A/C on, and it still chirped the tires when it kicked down as I was getting around someone in city traffic.
I could launch from a dead stop, and the knock light never lit up - with the A/C on!
I still plan on running a hose from behind the engine and blow into the valley.
Last edited by PorKen; 09-17-2008 at 12:37 PM.
#41
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I was looking at using the 'big' empty space under the heater valve for putting a bilge blower, and I got the idea to put a cover to keep heat from rising up past the airbox. I'm not sure if has changed the airbox temps, but it makes for a nice reduction in engine noise inside the cabin at WOT! I'm keeping it.
I'm not going to put a blower under the heater valve. For cooling the intake, I'm going to have to delete the oil fill tower, and plumb a hose in that space. This will be part of some future crank evac system change.
I'm not going to put a blower under the heater valve. For cooling the intake, I'm going to have to delete the oil fill tower, and plumb a hose in that space. This will be part of some future crank evac system change.