JHowell37

On mine there was a clearance issue with the pin on the pulley as well. I tried to tap in with a hammer and it didn't budge. That's fine by me. If it can move with a hammer, it could probably work itself out over time. So I tried to use the press. I didn't want to damage the bearing so I didn't squeeze too hard. In the end, I put it in the vice and got out the grinder. Problem solved.

Alan

Ken - did you ever consider an alternate warning system of any kind? Seems that a simple roller microswitch could be installed somewhere on the back of the belt to detect excessive movement...?

Or even a simple very thin sacrificial wire loop around the belt that could check for excessive movement as well as the belt fraying at the sides or just mistracking off the roller centers...

A more complicated version might have optical sensors for tracking or debris.

Alan

Lizard928

Alan,

I like the idea of the belt tracking forward warning switch. But it really isnt needed. I ran my 32V without covers and watched the belt tracking etc and everytime I popped the hood I could inspect the belt gears etc. This was the best way for me.

puyi

Back on track.

I return to this thread to show you what my problem.

I let you watch the video I did. .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iATKBplxY4I

The washer rotates at the same time the center of the pulley. Is this normal or not?

What I fear is that turning it slightly, it might loosen the screw holding the pulley!

Thanks for all

Puyi

Shark_Week

great write up

PorKen

Not normal. Is the bolt torqued to 17 ftlbs (23 nm)?

Also, make sure the chromed pin on the pulley which the lever pushes against has ~0.5mm clearance to the bracket. The pulley should be free to rotate when the bolt is torqued. If the pin is touching, it can be tapped or pressed in farther until there is clearance.

puyi

Ok Thanks

Will see it last week

Regards

Puyi

puyi

Hi,

I have re-mounted the entire system this WE and I have had the same issue as described below. So I have read again the porkensioner installation thread and i Saw That pictures :



It seems that there is a washer between the bracket and the pulley. I have not it. Should I found a washer and mounted it on or not?

Best regards

Puyi

puyi

Ok guys,

Thanks a lot. I think that I have understood all the things right. Sorry, I am a little bit anxious about new things I don't Know.
That saturday, we manage to change chain tensionner, and next week, the motor should "roared" again

Puyi

PorKen

You must use two washers, one on each side of the pulley, or the pulley will be incorrectly spaced!

This is why the washer was moving in the previous post.

Rob Edwards

^^^^ What he said. I have updated the first post to make sure both pulley washers are used.

puyi

Thanks a lot,

did not have that washer in my kit. I infer by myself, with the help of the pictures, it was necessary and therefore I haven't any problem mounting it.

Thank you

Puyi

StratfordShark

Are the washers usually included? If not what size is needed?

I'd like to install PorKen's design on my next belt change.

Rob Edwards

The washers (2) are included in the box with the pulley. I measured the 2 M8 washers, they're 1.96 to 1.98mm thick and 24mm in diameter.

86'928S MeteorGrey

I am almost finished with my Porkensioner install, and have a couple of questions.

1) Regarding the lower idler pullys. Why is it optional to remove them? Won't they still prevent the belt from skipping a tooth (or more) on the crank gear if the tensioner begins to lose oil or pressure? I'd assume that if they are in good shape, they might as well stay on the engine. What is the benifit of removing them? Weight?

2) As in Rob's notes above, is there any detrimental problem with leaving the pivot post to seal the water pump as opposed to removing it and injstalling the 10mm set screw?

Best regards,

Mike