Another possible method of making these connectors could be to scan one with a 3D scanner, then print them off on a 3D printer. The printers at least are getting steadily cheaper and better, though not sure if they can fully replicate the connector terminal channels.
There are a lot of parts for many different vintage cars that could be made and sold using this method. Simple-to-make (with a printer), but expensive-to-buy (in the present market) NLA Marelli switch knobs come to mind. I bet there are many more NLA Porsche, Bosch and other manufacturer parts that would be good candidates for this budding cottage industry. |
Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
(Post 5500129)
I personaly am happy that it is still available new because the cars will not run without it. Which reminds me I should buy one and tuck it away in my personal stash along side the new printed circuit foil that I bought for the very brown 1980....
Alan |
Originally Posted by WillST
(Post 11138803)
Another possible method of making these connectors could be to scan one with a 3D scanner, then print them off on a 3D printer. The printers at least are getting steadily cheaper and better, though not sure if they can fully replicate the connector terminal channels.
There are a lot of parts for many different vintage cars that could be made and sold using this method. Simple-to-make (with a printer), but expensive-to-buy (in the present market) NLA Marelli switch knobs come to mind. I bet there are many more NLA Porsche, Bosch and other manufacturer parts that would be good candidates for this budding cottage industry. Cheaper printer use ABS, which can be OK for a lot of parts, but not for high temp uses. Also the cheaper printers are not really high resolution. Still, I've been wondering the same thing -- it seems like it could work for some parts -- particularly if someone wanted to do a little hand finishing. Maybe not the first choice, but in a situation where there's no viable alternative, it might be worth a try. The trick is getting a good model. I have easy access to a Makerbot Replicator 2x if we want to experiment with making a couple of parts. One other thing to consider: part designs are usually protected IP. And while a manufacturer is likely to look the other way on very small volume enthusiast uses, the more it looks like a real business the more likely one is to get a firmly written WTF letter from counsel. |
Actually Kevin the cheaper printers use PLA, which is much lower temp than ABS.
Of course nylon is really the best overall. |
3D printing will come in few years and take care of this problem but its not quite ready yet.
|
Actually Errka, I know I could design and print either an ABS or Nylon replacement end that would stand up well right now.
But I'm far too busy with the printer right now to consider it. |
Originally Posted by Lizard928
(Post 11139420)
Actually Kevin the cheaper printers use PLA, which is much lower temp than ABS.
Of course nylon is really the best overall. Indeed. I believe the 2X is currently the only Makerbot that can use either PLA or ABS (and you have to set platform temp accordingly). And the 2X is currently the most expensive of the cheaper printers. My point is even ABS is not really heat resistant -- though a bit better than PLA. Nylon is definitely better. |
I'm printing two separators in Nylon right now as we speak. ABS has no issues standing up to underhood temperatures, or even engine oil.
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Colin,
Which printer are you using for 3D printing? Been researching them before taking the plunge Cheers! Carl |
Carl, I'm using a variant of the printrbot.
All the things I've been printing, I've made in solid works. ABS has been the hardest to work with. There have been lifting troubles with it, mostly as I haven't wanted to make an ABS slurry. The nylon is showing to be pretty easy/good actually. |
Thanks Colin,
I was looking at the Ultimaker 2, do they all handle Nylon? You have to heat the nozzle to a higher temperature I think? Sorry to hijack the thread. Cheers! Carl |
PM inbound.
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Why not make your own?
MAKING THE MOLD:
MAKING THE CONNECTOR
Here is a crude example I whipped up in 60 minutes start to finish. I used low density polystyrene and silicon putty. Both are inadequate for detail molds requiring strength, temperature resistance and non-porous. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e6fd02f365.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...45a1e1a567.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4f8dd68c94.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e5c3a89ec4.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...5e58363f10.jpg Fronkenstein |
Old thread, but the title speaks to my question... which is...
If the green part of the green wire is coaxial, what about the wire connection from the ECU to the green wire? Is it a simple 2 conductor or is it something special? |
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