StratfordShark

Today I got round to installing a new Y-connector for the carbon canister.

I didn't know for sure my old connector was broken but it seemed very likely. When I took off the wheel well liner sure enough two of the pipes had broken off in the hoses.

The broken section came out easily from one hose, but the one stuck in the hose going to the canister was very stubborn. It seemed like it had kind of welded itself to the interior of the hose? In the end I used successively larger drill bits to remove sections of it using a very slow speed. I couldn't remove all of it (largest drill not quite big enough) so the new connector didn't go all the way into this hose, but I made sure it was well clamped and it should be fine. I cleaned the liner throughly too and installed two new hose clamps to replace the cruddy originals (oddly the clamp on the larger hose on the engine side of connector was in excellent condition by comparison).

I bolted the liner back in and put the wheel on. Only then did I notice that the front rhs wheel would not spin freely.

Now I put in new front wheel bearings last year. Had adjusted them as per wsm at the time (could move thrust washer with screwdriver pressure) but admit I hadn't re-checked them since.

I will check thrust washer adjustment tomorrow but would he front wheel bind naturally because the brakes after last stop are touching the rotors till they reach a certain speed (by eye the pads seem to just touch the rotors), or is it more likely that the adjustment nut for the front bearing has got tighter as it settled in?

Angel84-928

My guess is that the brakes are just rubbing on the rotor. If you want to verify, take the rotor off and spin it again. I think you'll find that the rotor spins easily.

Mrmerlin

it sounds like a sticking caliper, but first you can check the wheel bearings by grasping the wheel at 12 and 6 and looking for play .
Then remove the wheel and push the pads back a bit to see if the hub spins easily.


Since you had the fender liner out did you check the washer tank for rust?
if it looks orange then its a good idea to replace the fill spout with a new one and then remove the metal collar thats in it, dip it into boiling water and it will slide out ,
Also remove the collar in the tank inlet this one will be harder to do , then remove the tank and fill with some small stones and some simple green and slosh around till the crud is loosened then rinse and reinstall the tank

the flyin' scotsman

I'd really like to hear the outcome of this one.

MrMerlin..........is it your contention that all wheels should 'spin' vs 'turn' without brake resistance. I know a m/cycle racer who was so fanatical he'd come in to the pits after practice and ensure the pads were free from the rotrs completely; often wondered how much time it added to his braking to get the pads back where they should be.

Yes the pistons should retract somewhat on the release of the brake pedal but to expect the wheel to freely spin hmmmmmmmmmm. My acid test is does the vehicle move on a slope without assist; if yes the brakes are free enough IMHO.

Mrmerlin

I wouldnt say spin but i would say if you cant turn the wheel with a simple push of the hand then the pads/caliper might not be working as designed.
The pads should move back ever so slightly from the rotor, and then the wheel should be able to turn without much resistance. There is a definite difference in OLD calipers VS new ones, over time the seals get a build up of crud on the inner edges and the seals themselves lose their elasticity, this makes the pads not release as far as new seals would.
That said there could also be a problem with dirt accumulation between the pads and the caliper this can also prevent the pads from releasing even though the caliper pistons might have moved.

As a side note on my BMW motor cycle its a 1150 GS it has dual discs and with the front wheel off the ground the wheel will spin for about 10 revolutions with a moderate hand thrust, and i can hear the discs hitting the pads ever so slighlty.
Another test that can be performed is to drive the car on a long deserted street, then use the engine and trans to slow down and use the E brake to stop get out and spray the rotor with a fine mist of water if the rotor is cold the water wont sizzle, OTOH if the caliper is sticking then the rotor will sizzle the water droplets, An Ir gun can also be used here

StratfordShark

I think the 'problem' was just the pads rubbing slightly on the rotor. I prised the outside pad away from the rotor and the wheel span much more easily, though not completely free. I couldn't pry the inboard pad away as the best place for the screwdriver shaft to rest is where the pad sensor wire is routed and I didn't want to damage it. I think if I could have moved the pad a little away from the rotor then the wheel would have soun very freely.

I installed the tyre and it was possible to get it to 'clonk' so I suspected bearing was too loose. Took off bearing cap and the thrust washer was far too loose - it moved alarmingly with little pressure from screwdriver blade. Loosened the clamp and turned it about 45 degrees clockwise - in that position you could just move the washer a bit but had to use a little force. Tightened the clamp, put some fresh grease in the cap and knocked it back on.

On a test drive the steering did feel a bit sharper. I really need to do the other side now as I assume the loose bearing is down to me not checking after a few miles when I installed the new bearings last year.

StratfordShark

Thanks for suggestion MrMerlin only I had already replaced the liner.

I didn't notice any rust colour when I looked at the tank - the fluid was just normal blue that I'd put in and there was no discolouration of the tank above the fluid line. Is that where rust would show up?

Mrmerlin

there might be a rust line at the water level, but if you look into the tank along the bottom thats where you will see the most rust.
Its coming from the 2 metal collars ,in the fill tube and tank inlet.
The rust will eventually clog the squirters and possibly damage the pumps, plus you can also damage the paint if rusty water is squirted on it