KraigG

Had an unusual experience tonight. Had trouble with the key not turning in the ignition today. Would not budge, would not go all the way in. I grabbed a can of WD40, and sprayed it liberally in there. Put the key back in, twisted and pulled, pushed and twisted, finally got it to turn, and the car started.

Great, I thought. I'll have to look into that some day. Went out to a local cruise night about 30 miles away. Thought it odd along the way that the power windows all of sudden don't work anymore. Oh well, I figured, must be a fuse. Got to where I was headed, shut the car off, and the radio stayed on. Tried the windows, now they both work. With the key off and out of the car. I'm thinking this can't be good.

Enjoyed the cruise night, showed off the 928. Had a good time. Got ready to leave, and had a sinking feeling. What if I can't get the key to turn? Luckily, I had brought along the WD40. It didn't turn, so I sprayed and did my routine. Finally, it started, but the starter kept running. Played with the key a bit, and the starter stopped. OK, I thought, let's get the hell out of here. Turned on the lights, and nothing. No pop up, no dash lights, nothing. Turned the car off again, and tried the light switch, and they went up, but still no light. Pushed the fog light switch, nothing. Did the key routine, and the car started, but all is dark. Get out of the car and walk around, I have taillights, side markers, parking lights. Hit the 4 way flasher switch, and that works. So I make the 30 mile trip home, flashers blinking, as I try and stay close to the cars ahead of me, so I can see the road in the darkness. Not a fun trip. The windows again don't work on the way home. No dash lights, but the radio and the A/C work.

What's the problem? I see the 928 parts suppliers have an ignition switch, but the lock with the key is a separate part. Do I buy both items? Neither?

It's an 80 MY, non Euro.

TIA,
Kraig

Charley B

You definately have a failing ign. switch. The spring is gone and the headlights and things not working are because they are cut out when cranking and when you let go of the key the spring returns the key partway which brings all circuits back on. In the meantime you can turn the key back half way, after the car starts, and you might regain all electrics. It is obviously on its last leg so call 928Int. and get what you need. The 1980 might have a plug in switch, I'm not sure, but your problem seems to lie in the mechanical part.

ROG100

Replace the switch and you should be good to go.
Pt No 964 613 012 00 in stock and can ship today - Saturday before noon. $53.95 plus shipping.
Roger@928sRus.com

chrly924s

After screwing w/the fuse box, the window switches, the brake lights, replacing the brake light switch, replacing bulbs, etc, etc, ad naseum since September; I found out Thursday night that it is the ignition switch. It was intermittent.The contacts that power the ignition and everything BUT the brake lights and windows are good. My 1st Pcar, a 67 912, had bad contacts on the ignition/run part of the switch.

Chuck Schreiber

Kraig,

I agree with Roger and Charlie, you have the classic symptoms of the ign switch (headlights, etc).

Not to give you more work to do, but you may want to replace the ign cylinder as well. Just throwing it out there. You're going to have the pod off more than likely. (Although someone said they could get the switch out without taking out? Callin bull**** on that one, been there, done that, no room for that)

You'll need to have either a right angle phillips head or a small ratchet (1/4) drive to gain access to the screws that will screw aft or toward the driver to get the ign switch out. Pretty quick though after the pod is out.

When I replaced my ign switch, I also replaced the ignition cylinder as well as I was having problems with it. You have an 80 model so its approaching 29 years old. Might want to do it. I bought a used one at 928 intl and sent them my key to key it to the lock. Did this about 2 years ago, so hoping that it will last another 20 something years. You'll need to drill out the pin that goes in from the top and get another pin to drive in and keep the new one in place if you do this. Its an easy procedure while everyting is out (meaning the pod) and may save you from going in there anytime soon.

Come to think of it, I ended up doing the LEDs, polishing the clear plastic, replacing idiot lights, column bushing and bearing, etc, etc. Lots you could do while you're at it, depends on how deep you want to get.

Don't you love it when we come up with more work for you??!!!

KraigG

Thank you all for the tips and great advice. Looks like I'll be ordering a new ignition switch soon!

Alan

I'd hold off on the lock cylinder until after you remove the electrical switch from the back - it may well be that the lock part is fine and the electrical portion of the switch was binding up. In that case the WD40 would have done no good whatsoever (they are seperate things) - but maybe it didn't and its was just continuing to futz with it that worked...

Anyway - unsecrew the electrical part and try the lock with the key - if it still binds up - do what you have to do but if it turns easily I'd bet it was the switch only giving you grief.

Alan

Bill Ball

This would appear to implicate the cylinder too.

Alan

Bill yeah - you may be right based on that - but its kind of a "double jeopardy" in that case... nasty...

Certainly wouldn't be the first time though!

Alan

KraigG

Know what? Both of the parts are relatively cheap, and I don't want to order the wrong thing, and have to wait for the correct, or an additional, part to arrive.

I'll order the new cylinder and key, along with the electrical part that attaches to the back. That should cure all of the ills I'm experiencing.

Bill Ball

Two options:

Do the test Alan mentioned. If the electrical part is the culprit, see if you can return the ignition cylinder.

You should be able to "re-key" the new ignition cylinder to work with your current key. I haven't done this on a 928 ignition, but I have on other cars and I have done all the door locks on a 928. The process should be similar.

backnblack

I think there is one on E-bay right now pretty cheap.

Cheers
Matt

KraigG

Seeing as how my current ignition switch does NOT match the door and hatch locks, I'd have to say the cylinder was replaced before. Most likely with a poorly manufactured offshore repro item. Here's hoping the current stock from our well known suppliers are of a better quality

KraigG

I bought the cylinder lock, with a new key, along with a new switch. The lock was an NOS Porsche part, in the original box. The switch was new, though in an unmarked plastic bag.

Took them to my expert, and had him install them both. I hadn't realized how time consuming (read: expensive) it is getting the pod out to access the switch.

Worked great for half a day. Now, the lock isn't returning to the "run" position after start, and the starter is grinding away. I can back the switch off a bit to get the car to run, but that kind of misses the point of a new switch.

What's wrong? I'm very frustrated now, and my mechanic can offer no explanation, especially since it worked fine for half a day.

Charley B

Mounted too tight? Bad cylinder?