RED SHARK 1990

Hello Ryan,the pictures above in this post is what mine looks like.I removed with a 5mm hex-and i kept dropping that damn bolt-the harness was in the metal holder and it looks fine upon removing it everything fell to gazillion pieces.The hardess part was trying to maneuver it back to its position,because the plastic wheel was in the way and i was afraid the damn thing is going to fall apart too or misalign.Why dint they make that wheel with cable in aluminum or metal?pictures is worth a thousand words in this thread.I had 2 knox sensors replaced last july aswell all the other except this one.I will use self fusing silicone taped next week on other harnesses.

Bill Ball

The connector on mine is fractured and held together with tie wraps and tape. Next time I go in there, I'll replace it after I find one of those $20 ones like Brian.

Nicole

I wish they would label this stuff in the engine compartment... then less mechanically inclined people like me would at least know what they are looking at when something doesn't look quite right.

Mrmerlin

if you do a intake RnR on a 87 or newer the following parts should be replaced,..... both knock sensors. The crank position sensor,. the throttle position sensor,....... the flappy vacuum pot,..... the hall sensor. Plus all of the rubber hoses that connect to the underside of the intake, New flappy shaft bearings with the rubber seal towards the outside of the intake housing, a new oil fill housing O ring and new H2O crossover O rings, and their assorted seals.
Red Shark, I think i gave you this List last year when you were asking about why your car wouldnt run. Anyway i am glad things are working out for you. /..........Keep em flying

Nightfly

Alright, I know, I may be an idiot, but why not just replace the connectors? When the plug falls apart, does that mean that the sensor is shot as well? Are the plugs'n'parts unavailable? If so, why not just use some other type of three prong connectors?

jon928se

+1

I was wondering exactly the same thing. - It's amazing what you can do with 1/4" spade connectors, crimped and soldered, with the insulating sleeves fixed permanently with heat shrink.

linderpat

There is no problem doing that, imo. As I said above, I will repair my old one, which worked fine, and sell it for $30 plus shipping.

ROG100

I sell the Amp Connectors if you need to replace those.

Mrmerlin

the part connectors are the side that usually disintegrates, this is also happening to the wire housing so there is a chance that the damaged wire insulation could also hurt other components. IE the brain from shorts.
I would suggest that the above parts be replaced if you find any of the connectors fouled up. It seems that they all seem to fall apart at the same time, and fixing 20 year old sensor parts gaurantees that it will fail at a later time, hopefulle when your close to home and not a state or 2 away

docmirror

Bosch connectors. AMP is a different mfg. Unless of course, AMP is making a pin compatible replacement.

The CPS failed in my Mondial, and it was so intermittent it took more than a year to isolate it. Here's a test method:

Drive the car until fully warm. shut down, remove air cleaner assembly. Start engine, and use a hair dryer on high to blow hot air over the sensor for more than 5 minutes. Note any changes in idle, and rev it a few times. It should not change idle speed, and should rev easily. They are affected by heat and it takes a bit of time for the heat from the dryer to penetrate the sensor.

Use penetrating oil before trying to get it out. Work when the engine is warm, and work the unit side to side while pulling STRAIGHT up on it. It's common to pull forward, away from the firewall, and this will not work.

Try to clean the bore with a rag around a screwdriver and some B-12. Insert the new one with a very light coat of anti-seize.

Knock sensor won't affect operation of the car unless you get poor fuel, the car is hot, and you step on it fairly hard. You can disconnect it completely and still drive, but not recommended.

ROG100

Hi Doc,
I sell the three way and two way connectors - Bosch/Amp or whatever they are called 8>)
Roger

bgibby

This crank sensor I got for 20 bucks off Ebay just arrived & it is brand new. It's only labeled with the Bosch part number, but it's the real deal-not refurbished in any way that I can tell. So... if you need one of these, you might want to add this vendor to your Ebay watch list & keep your eyes peeled.

Brian

Jadz928

My CPS connector looked just like Linderpat's in post #5. The male end (on the CPS pigtail) is made of bakelite or some archain plastic. It not that mine wasn't working, just happened upon it while replacing fuel lines.

The quick fix: I purchased the 3-pin male connector end from Roger, and reused the existing CPS pigtail and pins due to space limitations.

Some careful "surgery" is req's to get at the pigtail connector end, and pick out the shattered junk plastic bits. I had to lay myself over the top of the engine/intake, facing the firewall. Make sure to lay down something underneath to catch the bits.

Once you have it cleaned out, it's just a matter of sliding on the new boot and snapping on the new connector. Make sure you have you 1-2-3 wires ordered as it was. Also make sure pull out the locking tabs on the pins before insertion.

Why didn't I just replace the whole CPS? The difference btw $150 and $25. And it appears the connector end is the "weak link" in the design.

Mrmerlin

not only is the connector the weak link but so is the wire insulation, best to replace with and updated unit that will last another 20 years

SolReaver

+2 BTDT on replacing the brittle PITAS
I replaced the SS and RS connectors (on 924S) with ones from the boneyard. A little soldier, some shrink wrap, bit of blue glue and Presto! no more crummy OEM connectors. Those things are bad news. It is my way of recycling. How about we all agree on a standard of sorts for replacing them. Weather pack? Some Japanese connector readily available? It is only a 3 pin connector after all. Would humble but lovable trailer connectors work? I have used them with great success on Jags (try finding those round British connectors sometime) I Know they are 4 pin, just don't use one of the leads. They come cheap, pre-made, and have lots of wire on the end to play with.

About those wires...the wiring diagram has two "signal" wires going to the EZT and one described as a "shield?" is there a polarity to the two "signal" wires and is the third really a "shield", because it looks like just a wire there. What is the color "pin out" of the wires at the sensor end? could one of you guys with a bad sensor check it out please?

Good Job Jadz, that is some mighty fine detail work. you don't make fly fishing lures, do ya? the way they are so neatly and tightly wrapped makes me think of a lure. Now I want to go fishing. Rats, and I gotta work today..