1990 GT Starting Issue
03-09-2008, 09:37 AM
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1990 GT Starting Issue
Car is 90 GT with just performed:
1. Timing Belt Service
2. Intake R&R with everything underneath replaced
3. Dual Disc Upgrade
On two occasions I started the car and quickly started releasing the clutch. The car stalled and would crank but not start with a fuel smell.
On the first occasion:
I wonder about the car's alarm, so it was suggested that I cycle the locks. I cycled both the passenger and hatch locks without any change in the starting process. A mechanic cycled the drivers door lock and started the car, unfortunately I don't know "how" he tried to start the car (read below).
On the second occasion:
I cycled all locks with no change. Then in spite of knowing it was fuel injected, I put the throttle to the flow (like it was a flooded carburetor equipped car) and it started.
Does the above mean anything, or am I chasing coincidences? Does pressing the throttle to the floor change the starting process?
1. Timing Belt Service
2. Intake R&R with everything underneath replaced
3. Dual Disc Upgrade
On two occasions I started the car and quickly started releasing the clutch. The car stalled and would crank but not start with a fuel smell.
On the first occasion:
I wonder about the car's alarm, so it was suggested that I cycle the locks. I cycled both the passenger and hatch locks without any change in the starting process. A mechanic cycled the drivers door lock and started the car, unfortunately I don't know "how" he tried to start the car (read below).
On the second occasion:
I cycled all locks with no change. Then in spite of knowing it was fuel injected, I put the throttle to the flow (like it was a flooded carburetor equipped car) and it started.
Does the above mean anything, or am I chasing coincidences? Does pressing the throttle to the floor change the starting process?
03-09-2008, 09:47 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
Pressing the pedal to the floor is the procedure to clear a flooded engine with fuel injection, similar to a carburetor.
Given that you just completed the refresh of the intake system I would not get overly concerned unless this problem continues when you have run the engine long enough to get up to temperature. Once you have run it through its paces let us know if the problem continues or it clears up.
Given that you just completed the refresh of the intake system I would not get overly concerned unless this problem continues when you have run the engine long enough to get up to temperature. Once you have run it through its paces let us know if the problem continues or it clears up.
03-09-2008, 09:55 AM
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Thanks Roger,
The second occasion was after I had put the car "through its paces" presuming you would agree that a 40 mile round trip drive would cover that. The car has been driven multiple times and got fully warm on each of several drives since the work was done.
The second occasion was after I had put the car "through its paces" presuming you would agree that a 40 mile round trip drive would cover that. The car has been driven multiple times and got fully warm on each of several drives since the work was done.
03-09-2008, 11:26 AM
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Has the LH been rebuilt?
Were the injectors sent out for flow/leak testing, cleaning, o-rings etc?
What about the temp-II sensor?
Were the injectors sent out for flow/leak testing, cleaning, o-rings etc?
What about the temp-II sensor?
03-09-2008, 11:36 AM
#5
How about the vaccume to the fuel pressure regulators, do they hold pressure?
03-09-2008, 12:43 PM
#6
03-09-2008, 01:46 PM
#7
Team Owner
check the crank position sensor. You should look into the bellhousing to see if any part of the clutch pack has damaged the pickup to ring gear interface.
I hope you replaced this part (the CPS) as well as the 2 knock sensors and the hall sensor and the TPS.
I hope you replaced this part (the CPS) as well as the 2 knock sensors and the hall sensor and the TPS.
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03-09-2008, 04:34 PM
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I did not do the work on the car, so can't comment on the status of some of the parts. I presume I would have been advised of any possible issues with parts.
I will have to review the parts list to see what exactly was changed.
Thanks for the thoughts.
I will have to review the parts list to see what exactly was changed.
Thanks for the thoughts.
03-09-2008, 07:22 PM
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03-09-2008, 08:38 PM
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My '89 exhibits the same hard-start after a cold-die that Stan describes. And my '89 has a rebuilt LH ...
... due to the original dying while the car was on stands getting the engine full monty.
It is certainly possible that the LH could be going south. It could also be something else too though.
It is certainly possible that the LH could be going south. It could also be something else too though.
03-09-2008, 09:35 PM
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I agree on both counts. The question is: not due to a bad LH, could the car, during the cold-cold start-up cycle be running so rich that when you kill it accidentally that it floods? If so, why? Temp-II comes to mind.
03-09-2008, 10:13 PM
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Malcolm, could you clarify the above? If you mean to opine that the ECUs should have been disconnected during the motor work, this would be the first time I've heard this.
03-09-2008, 10:59 PM
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Of course. I thought you were advocating the route of disconnecting both the battery and the ECUs. Doing cam covers, intake, and t-belt with the battery connected would result in a lightning strike.