1990 GT Starting Issue
#31
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The spark plugs are new, as are the plug wires, dist. caps and rotors.
The idle switch is also new.
I am presuming fuel pressure is good, as the car runs well normally.
The car actually starts well, but if I stall it (call me impatient) then it is hard to start.
Did you replace your idle switch during the intake R&R and have it fail afterwards, like it was defective?
I am presuming the FPR is ok, as under normal conditions the car runs fine.
Perhaps I should re-phrase the title of the thread as "start, if stalls, difficulty restarting".
I do appreciate all the thoughts here, thank you.![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
The idle switch is also new.
I am presuming fuel pressure is good, as the car runs well normally.
The car actually starts well, but if I stall it (call me impatient) then it is hard to start.
Did you replace your idle switch during the intake R&R and have it fail afterwards, like it was defective?
I am presuming the FPR is ok, as under normal conditions the car runs fine.
Perhaps I should re-phrase the title of the thread as "start, if stalls, difficulty restarting".
I do appreciate all the thoughts here, thank you.
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
I replaced a functional idle switch during powder coating R&R with new, adjusted it to click just off the idle stop. It was adjusted to the maximum rotation allowed by the screw slots, and within a few weeks started losing contact returning to idle. I had to pull the intake again (getting quite good at it now!) and replaced it again works perfect. My symptoms were hard to start, erratic idle and stalling.......very unpleasant!
Just move the throttle quadrant by hand, listen for the click from the switch. No click, either adjust cables or R&R. I was able to get to mine by just lifting the intake up, not fully remove.....saved a bit of time there.
Checking the FPR is just pulling off the vaccuum line and see if fuel drips out. Probably not your problem...
Jim
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Genetic algorithms work well when the cost for each generation is very low.
#33
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Actually, for me, I kind of will be going Stan's route in many cases where the part isn't prohibitively expensive. I too want a reliable car; the vast majority of the parts on many of our cars are approaching or are greater than 20 years old, resulting in my beloved new purchase, though lovely, being a 'time bomb' no matter how you look at it. So when there's an option, and it's not outside of my capabilities, I'd rather replace stuff as I go. That way I'm at least pretty sure that part won't be the bad one in the future, and I'll be just a bit less likely to get stuck on the side of the road somewhere. I just look at it as part of preventitive maintenance.
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Yes. But that approach is like playing the lottery. You win if the first or second part you throw at the problem solves it. By the time you get to the fourth, or tenth part you are likely losing both on time and money.
Genetic algorithms work well when the cost for each generation is very low.
Genetic algorithms work well when the cost for each generation is very low.
So if I replace parts that are likely to fail, like the temp ii sensor, or perhaps are even just working less than optimum due to wear and tear, like an oxygen sensor, then there is still value to me. Every part changed is one less part to wonder and worry about.
This seems to be generally agreed with, as many would say a low mileage 928's value may often be exaggerated since plastic and rubber parts are still old and potential failure points just like a high mileage 928.
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Actually, for me, I kind of will be going Stan's route in many cases where the part isn't prohibitively expensive. I too want a reliable car; the vast majority of the parts on many of our cars are approaching or are greater than 20 years old, resulting in my beloved new purchase, though lovely, being a 'time bomb' no matter how you look at it. So when there's an option, and it's not outside of my capabilities, I'd rather replace stuff as I go. That way I'm at least pretty sure that part won't be the bad one in the future, and I'll be just a bit less likely to get stuck on the side of the road somewhere. I just look at it as part of preventitive maintenance.
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Don, Stan,
I don't disagree with the idea of replacing 20-year old parts as PM. That was exactly what I did when I got my '89. As long as you are approaching it from that standpoint - knowing that you might be throwing away good parts for peace of mind - then I'm on board.
The only caveat is that with anything that has an electrical connection, my experience has been that 50% of the time a problem with a sender is actually not the sender by the connections. So, when throwing away old senders make sure you clean and protect the connections for the sender at all ends (i.e. where the sender connects to the harness, where that harness connects to another harness, lather, rinse repeat, until you get to the ECUs, fuse panel, etc.)
I don't disagree with the idea of replacing 20-year old parts as PM. That was exactly what I did when I got my '89. As long as you are approaching it from that standpoint - knowing that you might be throwing away good parts for peace of mind - then I'm on board.
The only caveat is that with anything that has an electrical connection, my experience has been that 50% of the time a problem with a sender is actually not the sender by the connections. So, when throwing away old senders make sure you clean and protect the connections for the sender at all ends (i.e. where the sender connects to the harness, where that harness connects to another harness, lather, rinse repeat, until you get to the ECUs, fuse panel, etc.)
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Don, Stan,
I don't disagree with the idea of replacing 20-year old parts as PM. That was exactly what I did when I got my '89. As long as you are approaching it from that standpoint - knowing that you might be throwing away good parts for peace of mind - then I'm on board.
I don't disagree with the idea of replacing 20-year old parts as PM. That was exactly what I did when I got my '89. As long as you are approaching it from that standpoint - knowing that you might be throwing away good parts for peace of mind - then I'm on board.
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
The only caveat is that with anything that has an electrical connection, my experience has been that 50% of the time a problem with a sender is actually not the sender by the connections. So, when throwing away old senders make sure you clean and protect the connections for the sender at all ends (i.e. where the sender connects to the harness, where that harness connects to another harness, lather, rinse repeat, until you get to the ECUs, fuse panel, etc.)
If I have to deal with a $50 part to determine if it is good or not, when it is @20 years old and known to be problematic, then I will replace it. Checking the connections will vary from one part to another, some parts will be most easily checked when apart, others can be check afterwards (or if all is well ignored but remembered
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)