1990 GT Starting Issue
#16
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I am interested in where I should look and have some ideas. So many as to be a bit overwhelming. I did have this work done to avoid doing the work myself
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The most likely thing that would happen if you tried to do an engine full monty with the battery connected is that you would end up with a mild to deadly case of electrocution. But, I'd bet the car would be fine. In any case there's zero chance that the work done on your car was done with the battery connected. (Folks: Stan's not naming the mechanic that did the work but I know who it was (not me, btw) and thus I'm sure the battery was not connected during the motor work.)
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Hall sensor, 944.606.170.01, was replaced (interesting 944 part number)
I don't think the CPS was. If you are willing to provide the full name and part number and I will re-check.
All vacuum lines were replaced using the kit offered here by someone who no longer posts here
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Injectors were cleaned, tested and replaced with new o-rings.
I think I am going to order the temp II sensor (why not...)
The idle control valve, 928.606.161.01, was replaced as well as the throttle switch, 928.606.157.00. So perhaps not the two you menion
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Stan, you have the ... ahh.... "unmentionable software" procured by the OC? Yes?
Why don't you hook it up to your car and see what it says? Among other things it will allow you to see what the temp-II sensor is telling your computers. If it does everything that the Hammer does - I assume it does - then you should be able to check the operation of the Impulse Sender (Speed Sensor - called CPS here), ISV, Idle/Wot switch (called TPS here), etc.
Why don't you hook it up to your car and see what it says? Among other things it will allow you to see what the temp-II sensor is telling your computers. If it does everything that the Hammer does - I assume it does - then you should be able to check the operation of the Impulse Sender (Speed Sensor - called CPS here), ISV, Idle/Wot switch (called TPS here), etc.
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No you didn't but there is an issue with the car and in my mechanical experience returning to the last work typically leads to the problem; good luck.
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Stan, you have the ... ahh.... "unmentionable software" procured by the OC? Yes?
Why don't you hook it up to your car and see what it says? Among other things it will allow you to see what the temp-II sensor is telling your computers. If it does everything that the Hammer does - I assume it does - then you should be able to check the operation of the Impulse Sender (Speed Sensor - called CPS here), ISV, Idle/Wot switch (called TPS here), etc.
Why don't you hook it up to your car and see what it says? Among other things it will allow you to see what the temp-II sensor is telling your computers. If it does everything that the Hammer does - I assume it does - then you should be able to check the operation of the Impulse Sender (Speed Sensor - called CPS here), ISV, Idle/Wot switch (called TPS here), etc.
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I definitely agree that the likely cause of a new problem is where the last work was performed. Until problem determination is performed, then I won't know what the cause is and I am not presuming I have any idea what the cause is.
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Have you looked at any of the plugs? I think that's the first thing to look at. Then check to see if you have a good strong spark. How's your fuel pressure? Do you have a FP gauge?
I highly doubt it's the CPS. This is pretty much a go/no-go part and doesn't seem to be affected by temperature. One thing that does come to mind is the idle position switch. If you're not getting the idle contact, this can cause very hard starting when cold. The unmentionable software/tool will tell you if this is working or not.
Hope this helps.
I highly doubt it's the CPS. This is pretty much a go/no-go part and doesn't seem to be affected by temperature. One thing that does come to mind is the idle position switch. If you're not getting the idle contact, this can cause very hard starting when cold. The unmentionable software/tool will tell you if this is working or not.
Hope this helps.
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Another vote for the idle switch. I had one become non-operational shortly after an intake R&R. Pretty easy to check for.
Also, pull the vacuum lines off the FPR and dampers, check for fuel. I split the diaphragm on my '89 last year. Again, easy to check.
Jim
Also, pull the vacuum lines off the FPR and dampers, check for fuel. I split the diaphragm on my '89 last year. Again, easy to check.
Jim
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Have you looked at any of the plugs? I think that's the first thing to look at. Then check to see if you have a good strong spark. How's your fuel pressure? Do you have a FP gauge?
I highly doubt it's the CPS. This is pretty much a go/no-go part and doesn't seem to be affected by temperature. One thing that does come to mind is the idle position switch. If you're not getting the idle contact, this can cause very hard starting when cold. The unmentionable software/tool will tell you if this is working or not.
Hope this helps.
I highly doubt it's the CPS. This is pretty much a go/no-go part and doesn't seem to be affected by temperature. One thing that does come to mind is the idle position switch. If you're not getting the idle contact, this can cause very hard starting when cold. The unmentionable software/tool will tell you if this is working or not.
Hope this helps.
The idle switch is also new.
I am presuming fuel pressure is good, as the car runs well normally.
The car actually starts well, but if I stall it (call me impatient) then it is hard to start.
I am presuming the FPR is ok, as under normal conditions the car runs fine.
Perhaps I should re-phrase the title of the thread as "start, if stalls, difficulty restarting".
I do appreciate all the thoughts here, thank you.
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