Lifter Question; How to tell if a lifter if bad once out on the bench? 87' S4
#46
Burning Brakes
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My tapping noise was loudest (when listening through a stethoscope right on the center of the cam cover around Cyl. #5 & 6.
At this point my lifters don't look bad, all the oil passage ways look very, very clean, the oil check valve was spotless so I am still searching for the source. My injectors were loud, but I am certian that was not the main source of the loud tapping.
Tomorrow I am digging into the bottom of the engine and checking rod bearings, etc. However my oil pressure was always good 2.5 - 3 bar at idle and 5+ above idle.
At this point my lifters don't look bad, all the oil passage ways look very, very clean, the oil check valve was spotless so I am still searching for the source. My injectors were loud, but I am certian that was not the main source of the loud tapping.
Tomorrow I am digging into the bottom of the engine and checking rod bearings, etc. However my oil pressure was always good 2.5 - 3 bar at idle and 5+ above idle.
#47
My tapping noise was loudest (when listening through a stethoscope right on the center of the cam cover around Cyl. #5 & 6.
At this point my lifters don't look bad, all the oil passage ways look very, very clean, the oil check valve was spotless so I am still searching for the source. My injectors were loud, but I am certian that was not the main source of the loud tapping.
Tomorrow I am digging into the bottom of the engine and checking rod bearings, etc. However my oil pressure was always good 2.5 - 3 bar at idle and 5+ above idle.
At this point my lifters don't look bad, all the oil passage ways look very, very clean, the oil check valve was spotless so I am still searching for the source. My injectors were loud, but I am certian that was not the main source of the loud tapping.
Tomorrow I am digging into the bottom of the engine and checking rod bearings, etc. However my oil pressure was always good 2.5 - 3 bar at idle and 5+ above idle.
Great to hear you were able to remove the 1/4 piston assemblies and that they were properly oriented.
Now is the time to perform a standard bleed down test on the 1/4 piston assembly. Just like on Fords and Buicks, etc. I guess my PM to you this past Tuesday was lost.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
Edit: They have changed or deleted the link -- I will find an alternate.
Here is a good general information link on lifters which explains the importance of bleed down rate:
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/Marvel/tbo3.html
Read the part on leak down testing. Auto-Zone may lend the tool if they have it or with the info in this link you could probably rig/make your own. As for a rate -- just compare all the lifters if the Porsche FSM does not give one. The bad ones (if any) will probably be obvious.
Good luck,
Kevin
#49
Here is one from a 1981 Chilton's Manual. Aside: I like a lot of the various older manuals better as they seem to assume that the rebuilder may have to fabricate test tools locally rather than waiting for the Snap-On truck to arrive for its regular visit.
Aside: While looking for this I found a manual that suggested installing lifters empty of oil -- I still don't suggest that.
My suggestions to the above procedure would be to find a weight (barbell perhaps) and hook it to the drill press arm to allow a known downward force. Then just do a cross comparison of the lifters with respect to rate of bleed down.
Good luck,
Kevin
Submerge lifter in a container of kerosene. Chuck a used pushrod or its equivalent into a drill press. Position container of kerosene so pushrod acts on the lifter plunger. Pump lifter with the drill press, unitl resistance increases. Pump several more times to bleed any air out of lifter. Apply very firm, constant pressure to the lifter, and observe rate at which fluid bleeds out of lifter. If the fluid bleeds very quickly (less than 15 seconds), lifter is defective. If the time exceeds 60 seconds, lifter is sticking. In either case, recondition or replace lifter. If lifter is operating properly (leak down time 15-60 seconds), lubricate and install it.
My suggestions to the above procedure would be to find a weight (barbell perhaps) and hook it to the drill press arm to allow a known downward force. Then just do a cross comparison of the lifters with respect to rate of bleed down.
Good luck,
Kevin
#50
Burning Brakes
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Great,
Thanks, I was trying to find the tool as Auto Zone had no Idea what i was even talking about.
I will rig up a test and go from there.
Thanks so much for the info. By the way I got your PM's thanks
Thanks, I was trying to find the tool as Auto Zone had no Idea what i was even talking about.
I will rig up a test and go from there.
Thanks so much for the info. By the way I got your PM's thanks
#51
When/if they enlist in the Air Force they are prime candidates for being sent on a search for a bucket of prop wash. Although that bit of wit tells you how old my Air Force trained instructors in school were.
#52
Also, be careful not to magnetize your lifters. Check them with some tiny bits of steel. You don't want them to act as collection zones for detritus.
If they are I believe you can degauss them.
If they are I believe you can degauss them.
#53
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We blow air through the oil hole on the side of the lifter and they "blow" apart easily. (No scratches from the tools and no chance of bending anything.) We have been ultrasonically cleaning the lifters, lately. If you look at the design, the "shelf" inside the lifter collects all the sludge and garbage, without anyway to get it out. We recently had a set that were absolutely full of varnish and sludge. We don't mix the parts from lifter to lifter, but keep the parts separate.
Figuring out if they are good is easy. Once all the pieces are clean, reassemble the springs, check ball, retaining seat, and piston into the center piston. You don't need the large lifter body, yet. Pump the assembly full of oil, through the hole where the ball sits, and see if it can be collapsed. We put a weight on them and leave them for about 20 minutes to see if they leak down. If they all work, we then push down the ball with a small tool, compress the piston, and assemble the center piece into the lifter body.
Figuring out if they are good is easy. Once all the pieces are clean, reassemble the springs, check ball, retaining seat, and piston into the center piston. You don't need the large lifter body, yet. Pump the assembly full of oil, through the hole where the ball sits, and see if it can be collapsed. We put a weight on them and leave them for about 20 minutes to see if they leak down. If they all work, we then push down the ball with a small tool, compress the piston, and assemble the center piece into the lifter body.
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#55
#56
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You can easily see the "shelf" where all the varnish and crap gets stuck inside the lifters from Bill Ball's cross section picture.
Imagine what collects on that shelf when there is a thrust bearing failure......
That's why I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and have been doing the lifters in there.
Imagine what collects on that shelf when there is a thrust bearing failure......
That's why I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and have been doing the lifters in there.
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TED WATSON (08-13-2022)
#58
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Some 50 plus posts and 700 plus views before Greg Brown happens to tune in and answer the question....I got a fortune cookie they other day it reads...." I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand." ... Greg has 30 years of doing....
#59
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A little late here but I do stock the light weight lifters that Mike mentioned and they are $12.99 each.
Mike can add the details if he needs to.
Mike can add the details if he needs to.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#60
Nordschleife Master
Great tech info here, again i wish i had a spare lifter laying around to play with.
Someone book mark this or can we rate it? With a star maybe? i would hate the info to get lost in the abyss
Someone book mark this or can we rate it? With a star maybe? i would hate the info to get lost in the abyss