RyanPerrella

The car is all back together now, including the front bumper under tray and new euro fog light trim and clear marker lamps. The clutch and everything is back in and so far in 5 or so miles and 30 minutes or so of running there is no longer a leak from the RMS (KNOCK WOOD!)

Problem is the idle is jumpy. Well not exactly the idle, it stays close enough to 775 that if i were simply looking at the gauge and not sitting in the seat i wouldnt pay it any attention.

The problem is that the engine seems to rock slightly when idling and the oil pressure needle bounces a bit, although nothing dramatic, but i recall it being rock steady before. The engine vibration seems almost like what i imagine bat motor mounts would feel like. But the mounts are less than 2 years old and have less than 6,000 miles on the car in that period.

I am strongly considering doing an oil change now and going to the Mobil 1 turbo diesel 5-40 synthetic with the older NON SM rating. (993 guys dont like the new mobile 1) The engine now has 380 miles on it since the new bearings and rings and so on, so an oil change isnt out of the question. I had originally planned to change the oil at 20-50 miles which i did then again at 400-500, which would be about now. One oil note, I added a half quart of STP oil stabilizer to the engine the other day, can this effect my oil pressure reading? It was added because when i was in the auto parts store i saw it and remembered Hammer talk about it as a break in additive because of the ZDDP count in it which is supposed to be great for anti-wear.

When i rev the engine and drive the car everything feels fine its only when idling it gets a bit rough, not so much that the revs fluctuate but it just feels rough. Also i am not sure if the oil pressure fluctuation is because of the revs moving between 750-800 (ever so slightly) of if the roughness could be because of the oil? (oil causing the engine to feel rough dosent make sense to me)

I dont think this is an electronic problem, near everything is new, MAF, TPS, O2, HAL, ISV, on and on?

OH, could it be my ignition system and time to throw on new caps and rotors? I was noticing when i was checking the TB belt tension that the rotor and cap points were fairly black, although not terrible. I took some 660 sandpaper and cleaned the cap points and the rotor edge. But I dont know when the caps were last replaced, they could be 3 or more years old if not older. (This is one of the few things thats not new, that ive never replaced.) I did just realize how vital a cap is on an older Honda last year that wouldnt run and when i put $25 into it with a cap and rotor it fixed everything. And when i was looking at the old cap i couldnt see anything obvious with it, so maybe I should try a cap and rotor.

How about any other ideas?

Also earlier today when the car was idling, it was sitting in my drive way running with the drivers door open, i was sweeping the garage floor and was doing this for maybe 5 minutes, but suddenly the car just shut off. It wasnt like the idle was fluctuating and it gave in and died, i remember it idling fine, then just shut off. Is there anything in the computer that tells the engine to kill itself under any circumstance? Perhaps when the car is running with the drivers door open for set amount of time? Ive never heard of anything like this but thought it maybe possible?

Could any of this be because of a timing belt thats too tight? When i retensioned i put it in the window range but closest to the tight side i would say about 75-85% to the tight side. Any chance that has anything to do with this (again something i doubt)

Thanks for any ideas

soupcan

Old gas.

ROG100

X2 on old gas, however new caps and rotors may help 8>) 8>0
Needs an Italian tune up plus some Techron in the tank.

RyanPerrella

old gas huh, really, the gas is 5 months old, AND ITS FULL DAMMIT!

would adding some techron or octane booster do anything? Or do i need to drain it and refill?

soupcan

Techron and a good long drive is much easier than draining.

FlyingDog

Street gas is only good for 30-90 days.

On a new engine after all that effort.... drain it. Run it in your lawn mower/pickup/automatic928

RyanPerrella

its as simple as old gas and techron huh.

I just told Roger how anti climatic that is after that damn long post. But the gas fits perfectly, did you suggest that because i mentioned i hadnt driven the car in 5 month's. Did i even mention that?

Anyway i am going to go get a couple bottles of techron and do some driving.

Thanks!

RyanPerrella

Ok didnt know gas has such a short life span.

Does anyone believe in those products like Stabil for cars that sit?

soupcan

A lot of the vehicles at work sit for 6 months, then when the drivers get back to work they conplain the trucks don't run right. A few days later all is well, why? Old gas. Hope it works.

WICruiser

Stabilizers do help but they are not a cure all. A lot depends on the conditions - you stored with a full tank which is a good thing to do because it minimizes the condensation (water) that can get into the system. High temperatures don't help gasoline storage either but over winter, even in the warmer climates is much easier on storage than when it is in excess of a 100 ever day.

ROG100

As Flying Dog points out put the old gas in a 928 automatic as they are less susceptible to being namby pamby about old gas and are much faster anyway. You know it makes sense 8>)

FlyingDog

In my DE group yesterday, some guys were bragging about passing the silver 996 with the low HP ricers, Minis, and Miatas. After somebody pointed out that is was a girl with a tiptronic slushbox, nobody thought it was much of an accomplishment.

Big Dave

FYI...I had just filled up my 928 with fuel when my chain tensioner problem occurred after SITM '06. That gas sat in the tank for 9 months. It burned like any other tank once I finished the repair. I suppose it's proof that auto 928s can handle it.

RyanPerrella

my Hi-Po GT just dosent like it!

Anyway, this sure seems to have been the winning number. (never had gas issues before and this was a learning experience) I bought some fuel treatment's. I bought a 3 pack of the cheapo STP stuff thats supposed to stabilize poor quality fuel. I figured i would throw 2 bottle's in at $1.20 each and see how things went. If it didnt immediately improve i also bought a liter of a similiar product from Lucas oil which was $10 and thought i will pour part of this in if its still an issue.

Well after teh 2 STP bottles the car felt much better, i cured its indigestion and drove around for 30-40 miles and before heading home topped the car off with fresh 93 fuel. I'm confident that it will be safe and I look forward to hitting the "E" on the gas gauge.

THANKS GUYS!

Now i need to adjust my throttle cable's so they work proper!

Tampa 928s

cheapo STP stuff

Seems like you are saying two bottles of Chevron and two bottles of Stp, don't add too much of this stuff hard on the seals and rubbers.
Just go for a drive