Bill Ball

Actually, it's not obvious. This thing is a royal PITA. It took me forever to understand how it worked. I think it's harder to do correctly than a timing belt. Anyway, Alan's post helped me a lot.

And although I made big mention of the bumpers, it could be the new receiver is sitting lower than the original one, therefore the hatch must be slammed. Properly aligned and adjusted, which I have rarely found, it should require very little effort to close the hatch - just a mild push. After I got mine set, it didn't even make a popping noise when it released while opening.

RyanPerrella

Got the parts reinstalled and adjusted the bumpers and got the hatch to close and lock with a firm push down. Great , then I raised the hatch to adjust the bumpers slightly and then the hatch wouldnt latch. So i cant get consistent results although i have made adjustments. I need to realign i guess and keep working with it.

I need more 1A fuses as i think they are the cause of the interior instrument cluster lights not working. So I replaced with a 5A and the release switch cycles as it should, So i need to buy more fuses and replace. So thats fixed.

Now I need to get the latch to latch and release over and over so i need to fool around with it some more.

Bill you mentioned that your latch dosent "pop" I would love to have that but i will settle for the thing just working at this point.

Also, being that i have eliminated the alarm stuff for the rear hatch, is there anything i need to do to get the alarm to continue to function without having the proper alarm hatch lock?

Bill Ball

If the latch won't engage once you raise the bumpers to get the hatch height to match the body lines, then the receiver is too low. Like I mentioned, in Nicole's car we found a shim plate under the receiver that raised the receiver height relative to the deck. She really didn't need it, but it looked like it was a factory piece. You might need something like that.

As to the alarm, I think you're OK as is. I'd have to check the wiring diagrams. Maybe Alan will answer that.

As to the no-pop on release, that's determined by the bumpers. If you set them low enough, but still have correct hatch height, it will not pop. It might rattle or squeak. The rattles may become your next challenge after you get things working.

RyanPerrella

yeah gotta love those rattles! Thanks for reminding me that i probably have that to look forward to.

The non alarm hatch wont affect the door alarm at all? In all honesty i think the system that porsche has in this car is probably not much of an alarm in todays world but it dosent hurt i guess. I do like my little flashing red diodes in the lock **** though.

RyanPerrella

Roger mentioned to me a link in some 928.co.uk board or something about removing some tumblers in the new latch mechanism so that my standard ignition key will open this new hatch lock even though its keyed for something else.

Curious if anyone knows about this tumbler modification. Or could i take parts out of my old tumbler and put them into the new one so that the old key will work in the new lock? When you key a tumbler, isnt it just having the correct sequence of the correct little tumbler plates so that it will either unlock and lock or not?

pscottjr

Ryan this is the thread on rekeying.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/397857-re-keying-locks.html

linderpat

Can't wait to hear in the first person at SITM how this goes Ryan! I'll expect lots of colorful language and handwaiving!

RyanPerrella

SITM? How far is that from Austin? When is that, in 2 months the car maybe gone and i maybe be back in NYC, or i could move back to LA. At the end of March my lease is up and i am planning on moving out of Texas but so far, i havent the slightest idea of which direction i'm going in, east or west.

linderpat

it's just a skip and a hop from Austin
Seriously, it's a huge 928 event in North Carolina - just look up Sharks in the Mountains. lots of folks go. It's in June, and I'm booked for my first one .... you should look at going too

Alan

Ryan - with the top lock connector just left disconnected the alarm will work just fine. Obviously there are some issues.

#1 If you arm the alarm by locking the doors and then open the hatch the alarm will go off - since it no longer disarms when you use the key (so just unlock a door first).

#2 You can't lock from the hatch by turning the key anti-clockwise - not a big deal - most owners don't even know it works that way!

Alan

RyanPerrella

I will miss the counterclockwise rotation, but for 1/3rd the price i think i can live without it.

Interesting you mention that i would first have to unlock the doors before opening the hatch or the alarm will go. Because of this I would think that my best be would be not to mess with the lock cylinders at all because i would have to unlock the door to properly open the hatch and if i open the door first i would use the electronic release.

Thanks for pointing this out to be before i go in and tear apart something else.

Tails

Ryan,

Not a good idea to increase the amp capacity of the motor parking mechanism to 5 amps as you may burn out the circuit. As Alan has stated it is relatively simple to clean up the parking mechanism if it is not working correctly.

It sound as though you have decided to live with the non-alarm function and can cancel the alarm circuit by first opening a door.

I have successfully repaired the upper hatch tongue cracks using a doubler plate, as described in one of my recent posts. My upper hatch mechanism is fully operational as designed and you can say the the repair to the upper tongue crack is under test.

As Bill described you should be able to close the hatch without slamming. Sometimes the hatch won't latch as the motor has not parked the receiver mechanism cam in the correct position. If not parked correctly, it could be located in the "open" position causing the upper key operated hatch nylon latch not catching in the receiver.

When adjusting the closed position of the hatch, the bumpers should be fully screwed in initially. The latching mechanism should be tested for fit with the receiver mechanism removed and hand latched by pushing it onto the upper mechanism with the hatch in the fully opened position. This allows the electric operated cam to be held out of the way by hand and allows the key operated latch to do its locking function. if it is too hard to get it to latch there are 2 possible reasons reasons, 1. the new rubber insert is too big or if it is an old shimmed out insert is used, the shim could be too thick, and 2. the the key operated nylon latch is too worn or it fulcrum pin is worn causing the nylon latch not to fully catch under the receivers fixed latch receiver. As you are using a new upper and lower hatch locking mechanism all should be OK, but as noted by Roger not all new parts function correctly.

If this hand testing is OK, as it should be with the new upper and lower hatch mechanisms, you can test the cam operation release by hand operating the push rod.
If the cam does not release then you have a problem with the new items. One fix for this has been described by fitting a couple of nylon ties around the cam.

You can also test the key operated unlock mechanism at the same time, thereby ensuring that the key system is not too stiff and the lower receiver should "pop off" the upper tongue. If the key is too stiff then more lubrication maybe required or if does not "pop off" the tongue I have found that the rubber insert can jam the lower receiver's nylon spring loaded release mechanism. IF this is the case then some "relief" maybe need to be made at the bottom of the aft inner section of the rubber insert.

By undertaking these tests by hand you can really see and feel whether the system is operating as designed, with out the PITA of shutting and opening the hatch lid.

Now fit the lower receiver into the car without the new shim, as descibed by Bill with Nicole's car. I would suggest that you follow the suggested alignment system in my previous post here by first just nippin up the 4 allen headed set bolts.

You can now test the latching of the hatch in situ to see whether it catches without slamming. If it closes correctly and can be opened by the key easily it should "pop up" under pressure of the receiver spring. If it does not "pot up"then the receivers spring loaded nylon piece is jamming and need some lubrication.

You can now adjust the bumpers to set the hatch edges to align with the body to get an even gap. Adjustment should be by small increments otherwise you may jam the key operated latch into the lock position, as the force to close the hatch increase. This adjustment is a trade off in alignment and closing force required.

When you are happy with the closing force, alignment and the pressure require to turn the key to open the hatch, you then adjust the position of the motor operated opening cam as per the WSM. When operated by the pull switchs it should "pop" the hatch and when the switch is release it should park in the correct position. If it does not pot the hatch after all of the above then the alignment of the two hatch locking mechanisms is out and should be again re-aligned

When all of the above works satisfactory you will have a fully operating hatch as designed without alarm.

Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto

RyanPerrella

I couldnt find a 1A fuse at the auto parts store so i bought some 3A fuses

What about a 3A?

Tails

Ryan,

Still too large, as you now have 3 time the rated amps in the circuit.

Try a marine store, that where I found 1 amp fuses or order from you OPC.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

RyanPerrella

Thanks Tails, i will give i a shot