doktor-t

This build looks really nice. If I had the cash & time I´d do something like it. I especially like the exhaust manifold setup.

/Tobias

JEC_31

This beast of a motor is going to be awesome.

bcdavis

It reminds me of all the front mount turbos on the Vipers...

Looks pretty sweet!

Lizard928

Hey guys,
sorry I missed your question Brendan, but to answer it.
Due to the relocation of the altenator I do have to change the coolant bridge yes.

I have also been out at work and crazy busy, I just got home late yesterday. I managed to pick up my new crank pulley. What a nice piece that is. But it wasnt cheap!

I also have some pieces on route from Roger to finish up the engine, then it is the intake manifold I have to get done and we will be good to go!

BC

So where exactly will you pump the water in and out of the block?

Lizard928

Brendan.

I will not pump the water out of the block.

the electric waterpump has 2 oulets, and requires both of them to be used for max flow.

I will have the 2 outlets attach to the front top water channel (which the bridge currently connects to) and will make a custom piece which will sit in the large hole below to return the water via an external thermostat.

BC

I'm sorry Colin, I am slow today.

So the coolant is able to run through a few select areas on the blocl - the front area by the water pump - you are blocking that off.

There is the large hole you mentioned in the center. The two head ports in the front, and two head ports at the back.

YOur pump has two outlets? And one inlet? [Edit - I looked - two outlets and one inlet] -

Lizard928

Hey Brendan,

I will be removing the impellor off the factory pump, well reworking it entirely actually.

I will not have the factory bridge. instead the large hole that the bridge slides into will have a custom piece on there. This will be the return, and will run via an external thermostat.

Then the 2 ports which the water bridge (normally sealed with a special shaped o-ring), connect to the heads will be the inlet. As you can see I will run reverse cooling.

Cool the heads first, then the combustion chambers.

The two head ports at the rear of the heads will effectively be capped, but with a bleeding system for removing all the air from the system before starting.

I will be hooking up the heater hoses a fair bit different.

BC

Great. I understand now. Seems like that could work for anyone if they want to do the electric pump. Are you thinking (on the WP plate) about just machining the plate with a large round "shoulder" for a large bearing for the pulley? Making it all one piece? That would mean then that as you suggested, the plate has no holes other than for the bolts.

BC

Would it reduce your cost if you made two or three of those plates for the WP?

Lizard928

Brendan,

If I make a plate and bolt a larger bearing assembly to it then yes it would possibly be abit cheaper to make a few of them,

however I am going to disect a dead pump I have around first and see how difficult it would be just to make a new shaft and use a couple ball bearings inside the factory housing, with the hole on the inside capped off.

Lizard928

Well I finally got to be able to take pics of the dry sump pump/pulley.





The belt I got with the pump from Dailey Engineering was a perfect fit.

The pulley was not cheap to have made though!

Everything lines up perfectly as well.

Unfortunatly I didn't get much time at home on this break, and haven't taken much time off this year delaying the project.
However Roger is keeping busy with parts I am getting from him and I have gotten alot of stuff as of late so it will all be waiting for me to get home.

I have -8 fuel line extrution for my fuel rails, as well as 630cc injectors (8) which will be run in parrellel to the 24# injectors I already have to obtain a nice smooth idle, but still obtain enough fuel to feed her.

I also have 2 Bosch 044 fuel pumps with high flow pressure filters.

I have a -10 PFR which all the fuel will return through. Along with an electric fuel pressure guage so I can verify that my fuel pressure isnt dropping in the cabin under max boost.

I still need to get an electric oil temp guage system so I can keep my oil temps under control.

I am going to tear out the factory tank and battery tray area and got with either a 10 or 15 gallon fuel cell.

For those of you that haven't done the math, with 2 Bosch O44 fuel pumps running I will be moving 400 LPH of fuel through the fuel rails/engine bay.

I will probably have 1 of the pumps switched to come on at a specific RPM/boost range so as to not wear the pump out as quickly, but may not be able to do that without running a second FPR.

EPMD-101

lizard931,
i like what your doing, How about a serpentine belt to drive all the accessories , one thing i always loved about my 5.0L fords

Lizard928

EMPD-101, the ONLY accesory that is on the engine is the altenator. So yes I have already done that.

123quattro

I must have missed it earlier. What is your hp goal? Each one of those pumps can support 500hp of fuel delivery on a boosted engine. Nice pieces.