mark kibort

The Holbert car has been spectacular as far as durabiltiy, but it has had a little click in the driver side tie rod ball joint for most of this race season.
How hard is it to change this component. it looks like the tie rod at the hub area unbolts (and maybe needs a pickel fork to separate it) and then there is an odd looking round ball that holds the ball joint, with 2 thin flats on it that might unscrew from the steering rack.

anyone do this job before, not at the shop? it looks like if i measure the settings, i might not have to get the car aligned, especially if it checks out with my toe measurements afterwards.

mk

Andre Hedrick

Do you need to replace the "end" or "the whole" beast from the rack out?

largecar379

simple procedure....

using a pickle fork to remove the ball joint can result in tearing the dust cover.

a ball joint separator is better....

the tie rod then just unscrews from the rack tube.

---Russ

largecar379

Mark----

this is off topic....

did you ever measure the actual compression ratio on your 5.0L hybrid?

if so, what numbers did you get?

--Russ

mark kibort

scots was a little higher than mine, and i think scots was around 10.3:1 vs mine in the 10:1 range.

both were identical, but scots did have a shaved block top.

the numbers were based on:

48cc head
8cc piston ( 2cc for exsiting 4 valve cuts and 6 for the dish, 2 for the new cuts)
1mm gasket


mk

Bill Ball

Mark:

I've done this. It's easy. It's best to replace the entire tie rod ($75, IIRC) unless you are certain the inner tie rod is tight.

Balljoint separator:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html


If you can do this on a 4-post lift or on ramps so the wheels are planted on a surface and don't move, you can easily get the new balljoint end back in with the toe unchanged, although it's best to check toe after this is done.

mark kibort

I can see the ball move out of the ball joint area of the steering rack. I assume, this means once that entire tie rod needs to be replaced, to fixt that part that is moving

If i can leave the wheel side ball joint in place, that would be easier, but i dont think that it is sold that way, or maybe even possible.

mk

mark kibort

Thanks Bill!

So, im pretty certain the outer ball joint is fine, dust cover looks good too, but the inner has the play. is there a way just to replace that part, or do you buy the entire part (only $75 as you mention) and take it apart and use the inner part? sounds like it might be pretty easy if you have one of those handy dandy tie rod separators.

mk

Landseer

Mark,

I did this I few weeks ago. Replaced inner and outer as a unit.

My inner was loctited on. Took a lot of force to break loose. Had to put counterforce on as well, otherwise it could have torn-up the rack internals.

Airflite40

+1 on the ball joint seperator, I spend three days messing around hammering and hammering with a fork tool, then 15 mins with the seperator tool had the end free....

Black Sea RD

+2 on the ball joint seperator, not a pickle fork. Really don't like banging anything if I don't have to. And make sure you have the proper sized wrenches for the job, one to take off the tie rod assembly and one to counter hold the steering rack shaft before you start.

The best is to replace the whole unit while you are doing it. Especially since you are flying around the track and really don't need to have an "occurence" with your steering at speed.

Constantine

Mike Simard

You'll find the inner tie rod very trying on a wrench, it's something like 32mm IIRC. This is your one chance to use a monkey wrench! It's actually well suited for it

That seperator looks neat, I don't like the idea of using pickle forks either.

BTW, while I'm recommending monkey wrenches and stuff, An old trick on stubborn tie rods and ball joints is to hammer away at the area where the taper resides. You'll feel silly but it actually works.

Mike Frye

MK,

I've done this job too, so it can't be that hard . I would recommend from past experience that things like this should be done in pairs. If one is going because of fatigue or use, the other won't be far behind, especially in a car you're racing. The cost is really low, so I think it's a no-brainer.

I'd do the inner and outer tie-rods on both sides, then you know your boots are good and the parts are all torqued and set up. Peace of mind is worth a lot.

dr bob

Mark--

Replace BOTH inner and outer ends. Look at the lower suspension ball joints at the same time, since that one takes pretty much all of the wear-and-tear. They are not expensive in the big picture, and should likely be on your annual replacement program no matter what.

Counter-hold the rack as you unscrew the inner tie rod ends. Replace the rack boots WYAIT too. If you've given any thought at all to a PM rack replacement, this would be the time to do it.

You'll want want a real alignment when you are done and everything is settled to your 'normal' ride height, especially if you do the ball joints.

mark kibort

Thanks all! Sounds like Ill be going to CT to borrow a rack and use their 32mm open ended wrenches and the ball joint separator. thought i could hack it out in my driveway, but this will probably be an easy job with the right tools, and a mission of destruction with the wong ones

Mk