spode134

This is the scenario:
1979 4.5 euro engined 5 speed
Bought parts car that has sat for 2 plus years, po gave up on it with fuel injection problems.... I'll have it running 1st day no problem, well it's been about 15 hrs still not running, unless you count 5 seconds of life followed by 2 or more cylinders full of fuel and hydraulic lock. pull it apart try again same thing. repeat.
I have cleaned fuel lines and tank dissassembled the fuel dist and cleaned all the parts of it [lots of crud, piston was stuck etc] checked system and control pressures after cleaning the WUR, tried good used injectors... same thing , massive flooding.
If I supply fuel to the system with the injectors out and spraying into containers, as soon as pressure builds the injectors start to spray.. not all evenly.
I have checked and confirmed the piston in the dist is not sticking. it seems to make no difference if the air valve is moved while the fuel pump is running, the bulk of the injectors just spray continuously.
I don't want to get a rebuilt dist... big bucks I just want to get it to run good enough to move around and eventually this eng will go into the racecar .
Should there not be little or no fuel flow out of the injectors with the air valve closed? It seems like the piston in the dist would have to be really scored to leak like this, I did reuse the o-rings on the side of the cylinder/piston as they looked good though...
Can this thing be fixed?

Darrin.

blown 87

There should be flow with the pump bridged and the plate at rest.

It sounds like you have a problem with the injectors them self that they are not holding up to the pressure it takes to push the fuel past the pintle.

Have you tried looking at the pattern with the injectors out?

jtrygstad

Darrin,

Should be no flow! I rebuilt my fuel distributor (actually about 5 times until I got the o-rings right). Had flooding including filling the crankcase with gasoline until I got the o-rings right. Rich9928p did a nice pdf writeup with pictures on how to rebuild the distributor which I used as my guide. See his post "CIS K-Jet Rebuild Completed" (10-02-2004)
If you go this route, I would find an online o-ring supplier, and then order several sets of o-rings bracketing Rich's recommended ones by 0.5mm smaller. Also, get the pressure regulator o-ring set from Special-T-Auto. Called "Hot Start Kit" $3.50.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean...injection.html

This site has a wealth of K-jetronic stuff.

spode134

John, yep, filled my crankcase too!...thanks, the website link is great, how do I access that article that you referred to?
D.

blown 87

By at rest I mean in the idle position, there has to be some fuel going past the injectors for it to run.

s928s

the guy thast rund " special T auto " is a great guy, plenty of mechanical injection stuff. he also
made my stainless steel injection lines. great service.

jtrygstad

Darrin,

To get to Rich's post, do a search on the article title. Inside his post, he has an email address. If that doesn't work, PM me with your private email and I will forward the document to you.

Go-carter

Sorry for bumping the thread, but I've just rebuilt my fuel dist, and it feels like my car gained 200WHP(which it probably did, compared to how it was). It pulls very strong above 3000RPM, however, when I put everything back, I lost something that looks like a plastic plug, from one of the banjo bolts to the injectors. Is this critical? I have another car with a CIS, which I'm going to look if has the same plastic thing. Does it hold the pressure, or something? Searched, but found no topics about it.

GlenL

This doesn't sound familiar. There are the little "hats" inside the distributor but those won't come out with the banjo bolts. You do mean the connection of the hard line (8) to the distributor.

FBIII

You might have the mixture set way too rich. Try backing off the mixture screw, spring loaded allen wrench piece. Then run a steady 12 volts to fuel pump. Slowly start turning the mixture screw to enrichen the system. You will reach a point where the injectors start to squeak. At this point they are starting to admit fuel into the cylinders. Back off the mixture screw so they just stop squeaking. This should give you a ballpark mixture setting that will allow the engine to run fairly well.

Go-carter

The engine runs well (except for under 2500RPM, but I still have to change the vacume hoses), I may try the mixture screw, to test it.

Sorry for the mistake, but yes, I mean the bolts where the hard line connects to the distributor.

jpitman2

Do you have any pressure readings - maybe system is too high (should be ~75psi) and opening the injectors all the time?
The injectors are sealed into the runners with a black rubber bung inside the screw in piece - usually on an old engine they are very hard, and difficult to get the injector out. Is this what you have misplaced, G-carter?
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

michael j wright

Go-carter sound like he has lost one of the small filters that are under the banjo bolt and down in the top of the dist. Not a big worry. Darrin, even a small scoring of the piston is not good, caused the same thing that you are talking about on my car.

Go-carter

Thanks for all the replies,
Yes, after vacuuming out under the fuel regulator today, I found the plug, which is a filter.

The problem is that the cylinder(no.2 on the passenger bank) is running WAY to rich, the plug is completely black. Every other plug is fine. Perhaps the injector is ruined?