Dwayne

THANKS, guys, for the great comments....it's rewarding!!

Dr. Bob's link to the Sears pliers is the same I bought. I got mine at Kragen for $15.99. It has an embossed crosshatch pattern on the tips that really grip the pointed end of the clip so it doesn't slip off. Worked beautifully!!

Dwayne

THANKS, Bill for the offer! If the pics and writeup help just one person with the job, It's more than worth it to me to get it documented and accessible for others. Only problelm is I don't know a thing about setting up a website. I"m sure I could learn but in the meantime, if it's not too much trouble, let's put it up on your webspace. Do you need anything from me or would you just copy what's been posted on the list already?? I'd be happy to help anyway I can. Also, there's suspension and Brakes threads that may be useful to get on there too. I can PM you my phone number or you can send me yours and we can talk direct if we need to. THANKS!!

Randy V

Nice!

I posted a copy to the 928 DIY forum.

https://rennlist.com/forums/forumdis...ysprune=&f=134

Dwayne

Excellent! THANKS, Randy!!

WICruiser

Great write up.

I need to do this job and now I know where I am going to go for a refresher/reference material on the job.

Thanks for the extra time and effort to document this for the rest of us.

G Man

Way to go Dwayne! One question. Is there any type of clamp that goes on the small end of the new boot?

Dwayne

THANKS for checking out the post. The boot kit did not come with one but I wondered the same thing when it arrived. I also noticed that my original boots (still on the axle) did not have them either. I called Jim at 928Intl (the place I bought the kits from) and he confirmed they are not needed. Thinking about it, I agree. The boot isn't supposed to be filled with grease (only the joint) and the small end of the boot does fit snuggly on the axle. So I proceeded to install without the small clamp.

Bill Ball

Dwayne: Randy has immortalized your work. Congrats. I will throw up a webpage/site for you, and you can let me know what you think.

Charley B

Great job Dwayne. You don't mention a helper, so to do an extreme messy job like that and still manage to produce such a complete picture file is totally impressive.

Given the amount, or lack, of experience you profess, you certainly win the award for "Most Fearless DIY'er" of the year.

I notice that you used anti-seize for the wheel nut threads and thread locker for the allen heads. Was that a WSM procedure? I thought I had read that anti-seize was recommended for both. I'm curious because I used anti-seize on Brians allen heads this weekend and I sure don't want to have created a run away axle situation.

Ispeed

I would think it's ok to re-use the circlip, but wouldn't a new one be more correct?
That must be an early axle, there is a different type of tin bearing cover on the tranny side on later axles.
Great write up of course.

fabric

Yes. I've been looking for the gaskets for mine in the boot kits. It looks like it changed sometime in 86.5 or 87, based on the rebuilts available on 928 Intl, and we don't use them. Nothing in the PET for '87 about gaskets. On Dwayne's version on the inboard side of the shaft, the outer side of the joint has a thick plate that gets a a gasket, and there is no cover between the end of the shaft and the transaxle, it also gets a gasket. The later model just has the thin metal cover type pieces you mention. The boot kit only comes with the end piece as a replacement. My "covers" were on pretty tight, so leakage in or out seems pretty unlikely.

It seems odd to me that there were so many changes in the halfshafts. I think these halfshafts might have started getting used in the 964, which were probably being built in '88, (or at least the ends, the shafts probably aren't the same length) and this seems like it was probably a quicker to put in versin of the halfshaft - not needing to mess with 4 gaskets (or 8 on an C4), would save a bit of work-hours. How's that for a theory!

And Dwayne - excellent work! We're glad to have you here! As I've mentioned I'm in the middle of this (I swear I'll finish up this weekend!), and your photos and descriptions have been extremely helpful.

Dwayne

This is a first for me! You guys are AWESOME!! THANKS!!

heinrich

Excellent work, thanks for sharing. Perfect documentary actually. I did this job and found it easy but time consuming. One wonders if adding the bolt on the clamp where the factory clamp had none will add a slight imbalance?

Dwayne

Hey Charley,
Thanks for the comment....next project I think I will ask my wife to snap some of the photos that require me to use both hands on the work item - I think it would improve the quality of the pics.

"Most Fearless".....HA HA....I LIKE that! If you only knew how afraid I am to work on someone else's car........probably the only reason I'm "fearless" is because if I screw something up on our car, I'm thinkin' "Oh well, guess I won't do THAT again!"

When I researched the instructions before starting, I found the following in section 42 page 19 of the WSM (regarding installing the axle shaft):

"1) Run axle shaft into wheel hub on wheel end (lubricate splines and threads with Optimoly HT).
2. Install socket head bolts on transmission end (axle shaft flange surfaces must not have grease)."

I didn't find any reference in the WSM to put anything on the allen head bolts. However, when I was reading the posts on the Nichols site regarding CV boot replacement/repair, there was a post there by Greg Kanderman that recommended using threadlocker on the allens. It made sense to me to have a little extra insurance that those allens stayed put. If I followed the WSM to the letter, I would have left the allens dry.

THANKS for asking!

Dwayne

YES, I agree, use the new one that comes with the kit. Even though the old circlips looked OK, I threw them out and installed the new.