928ntslow

Errr yyyep! I need to do the inners on the Euro. The boots are torn. I checked the outers and they are intact and still plyable. I'll just change out the boots...I may just squirt some "3-in-1" in there. (jk) I'll have to look at the lube to see if any road critters are stuck in there. I have a tube of lube still from my other 82.

Bill Ball

This Nichol's tip is very helpful, especially towards the end where the outer CV is discussed (how to get the grease into that joint).

http://www.nichols.nu/tip487.htm

Dwayne

Bill,
Thanks for the link to the CV tips...this will be very helpful to me on my upcomming boot replacement and inspection!

BTW, I'm assuming that's your car in the burnout video?? COOL!! I want what you got (after my wife's 928 project is done). We need to talk!

Bill Ball

Brian:

Here's my rebuilt axles about 6 years and 90K miles later. Boots still look good. And you know my car is not protected from the elements except when it goes in the garage after a ride.

IcemanG17

Bill
Those look WAY better than my 3.5 year 13k mile "new" boots......... Now I'm extra glad I bought the rebuilt axle like that.....should be here in a few days!!

dr bob

For those playing along at home...

Once you decide to do one axle boot, consider doing them all. As one post points out, doing three and then doing the fourth a few months later is common. So is doing just the inside and then doing the outside a few months later. The labor to remove is the same whether you do one or both. The inner needs to come off to do the outer anyway, and the greasy mess is no worse doing two axles than it is doing just one. Plus they are likely all the same age, exposed to the same abuse, therefor likely to fail at very close to the same time.

Get the good boot kits from a reputable supplier. The ones that 928 Int'l sells are likely not aging on the shelf too long, and are much better than the bargain boot kits that the POLAPS sells. Plus they actually fit, a plus when you are in the middle of this project. There's a discussion someplace about gaskets where the inner joint mates to the drive flange on the side of the gearbox/diff. There's another discussion about the bolts that hold that joint together-- somewhere in the 65 ft/lbs torque range IIRC. Tighter than you normally can get them using an Allen wrench laying on the floor. Too loose and the axle will fall off, per a few listers.


HTH!

fabric

I'm in the middle of this job as well. Any advice for getting the drivers side shaft out? From what I've read and can now tell, you have to drop the exhaust pretty far to get this down - it's looking like I'll actually need to drop it up at manifold ends? I've already loosened up the mid and rear muffler just to get the passenger side shaft out.

I'm following Dr. Bob's advice - one is torn,but I'm doing them all and swapping sides. The one that's torn still looks pretty greasy in there, and I know it's not been many miles since it tore, I remember seeing it intact about a year ago, and I haven't put many miles on.

It's definitely dirty, but if you're doing both sides, getting new shafts is a bit pricey

dr bob

Chris--

I just loosened the rear hangers and let the pipes down onto a handy jackstand. You just need enough room to turn the shaft over the pipes and get it past. Pull the muffler, easy on the S4+. I used my floor jack to lower and raise it, with a piece of wood to support the muffler after unbolting. Lazy I know, but...

Bill Ball

I don't recall having to remove anything to get the driver side axle out. Maybe I did undo the hanger, as Dr. Bob mentions, or the joints at the rear muffler, but it was trivial enough that I don't remember it.

IcemanG17

I just had the passenger side boots done last year......one was "slightly" leaking....which translates too it dripped a tiny bit on my wheels which pissed me off so I had it done..& did both at the same time....so this should make the oldest boot just over 1 year old!

fabric

Thanks Bob and Bill. I'm having a hell of time just getting at the bolts, so I may try removing the rear muffler.

Ispeed

With a RMB, there is lots of room all around.
I have bought too many rebuilt axle shafts at $250 each... The whole point of the 928 DIY thing is to not just write checks for everything that we can do. The stuff we can't do, then $$$...

dr bob

Use a couple long extensions from the wheelwell area. Piece of cake. You'll need them to use the torque wrench on them later anyway. Age breeds laziness for me. I like sitting on my padded creeper seat, the one with the cupholder, and just twisting on a long-handled ratchet to break them loose. Then I use the little air ratchet to finish the job. You can get to two or three bolts at a time without releasing the parking brake and rotating the wheel. Won't even get your hands dirty until you crawl under and lift the axle out with the broken boot. Put some old cardboard on the floor to catch the pieces that drop, and to hold the greasy axle when it comes apart. Toss the cardboard when you get the axle cleaned and start fresh.

fabric

Yes, I did it the hard way on the passenger side. Thanks for the advice on the extension, I was wondering if this would make it more difficult to break them loose, but sounds like that's not a problem, and solves my issue of all the exhaust plumbing being in the way.

dr bob

There's some discussion about whether the torsion in the extensions affects the actual torque applied to the bolt at the end. There is some twist in the extension so a reaction is expected, but the effect on final torque is really negligible in the big picture. Use a 1/2" extension for assembly, and reduce that effect if you are really concerned.

Have fun!