Mako 928

I am removing the engine in MY '85 to replace a leaking head gasket. I have done a search and have not found the specifics RE: the clutch. I know Andrew Olson has just pulled his motor and had to pull the clutch W/it. The WSM states "The clutch must be removed completely for vehicles from model 87 engine type M 28.41 onwards" Since '87 onwards are a single disk and I am dealing W/ a duel disk how much of a difference is it? I replaced the clutch 2 years ago and the hole in the inspection cover shows about 3/4 of good clutch life left so I dont need to do the clutch. I am hoping to be able to drop the clutch pack keep it intact and go from there. The less I have to do the better.

Mrmerlin

open the lower bell housing and drop the clutch out then remove the bell housing bolts to the block the motor should come out easily

Lizard928

He is actually wanting to pull the engine clutch intact,

it is possible, however tricky, it helps if you have an assortment of sockets, and wrenches in (iirc) 17mm as you need to loosen the 4 bolts holding the bellhousing to the torque tube abit manually, then take an air rachet to undo them the rest of the way.

JP Rodkey

I've done it both ways. If given the option, I will always remove the clutch before the engine.

mark kibort

i would consider it, if there was a way to do it easily, so you didnt have to remove those headers!
since you have to leave the upper bell housing in place, you have to disconnect the lever arm of the clutch. Ok,that sounds easy . (as those 4 bolts holding the torque tube to the upper bell housing is near impossible to do, from what others have said).
Then, with the short shaft free from the coupling, and all the other stuff disconnected, and removed, like the radiator, you could pull out the engine, with the headers on it. wouldnt that be nice. i think putting it in might be tough due to that short shaft floating around in the clutch discs.

Im considering it for the Holbert engine pull, just because ill be doing much of the work in my garage.
The headers are a pain to remove and it would be nice to pull it out with out doing that, as well as bolting them on the new engine before the engine is put in the car. I guess you could always put it back in traditionally if you wanted.

mk

Mrmerlin

when you remove the clutch insert the 3 retaining pins onto the pressure plate retaining studs this make it easy to remove the clutch fork from its pivot. The retaining pins can be made from thick wire IE about 2 times as thick as a standard clothes hanger bend them into U shaped forms then put them onto the studs that stick out of the back of the pressure plate this keeps the pressure plate loaded and let the TOB have a bit more play to remove the clutch fork

Mako 928

Thanks for the input. I will go ahead as planned which is to drop the clutch pack and remove the engine from the bell housing. I just wanted to know if there was a easier way and if keeping the bell housing attached to the motor was it. Also was curious if according to WSM "The clutch must be removed completely for vehicles from model 87 engine type 28.41 onwards" if there was anything different for MY '85 '86.

mark kibort

what was different with the S4 vs the earlier years to be able to pull the engine without dropping the clutch out.

mk

Mako 928

This is what I wanted to know RE: '85 '86 MY, but since I am working in a small garage and space is tight it is probably better that I dropped the clutch out and will be removing the engine from the bell housing.