I hate cheap project 928's (No Start)
#19
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The weather is going to be 28°/23° this weekend so I am probably not doing much. The lights are out in the warehouse so I don't want to keep the door open. Do you know any good electricians?
#20
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Engine bay has allot of corrosion. Do you think spark plugs like this would be enough for the no start? I am going to order the cap/rotors because I assume they are corroded.
#22
Captain Obvious
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The plug looks ok but they are so cheap, might as well replace them. Also that oil cap is very dirty. Get a can of break cleaner and spray it. It will be bright yellow in less than 5 min!
#23
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Update- I have not looked at this car since Jan 08 but now have a local heavy duty machine mechanic who is looking for some extra work but has zero Porsche experience. The good news is when he looked at the car his first question was "Did you check the relay"?
He has owned a couple of VW's so I am going to give him a shot at getting it going.
Any thoughts on my list I am going to give him?
1. Clean & Disinfect. Fair bit of mouse droppings on the roof + dead mouse on the rear seat (after poison place around building)
2. Add a spoon full of ATF fluid down the spark plug holes (I changed the plugs when I bought it)
3. Pull fuses/relays check for the correct fuse and the condition of the ends + clean grounds. New 53 relays for IV, XVI, XXV, XX (I only remember changing the fuel pump relay)
4. Replace crank position sensor (New or pull from the parts car?) & check CPS harness.
5. check/clean 14 pin connector replace with 14 pin from parts car if needed.
6. Remove old fuel + add new fuel
7. Change oil & coolant
8. New Battery
9. Try Starting
He has owned a couple of VW's so I am going to give him a shot at getting it going.
Any thoughts on my list I am going to give him?
1. Clean & Disinfect. Fair bit of mouse droppings on the roof + dead mouse on the rear seat (after poison place around building)
2. Add a spoon full of ATF fluid down the spark plug holes (I changed the plugs when I bought it)
3. Pull fuses/relays check for the correct fuse and the condition of the ends + clean grounds. New 53 relays for IV, XVI, XXV, XX (I only remember changing the fuel pump relay)
4. Replace crank position sensor (New or pull from the parts car?) & check CPS harness.
5. check/clean 14 pin connector replace with 14 pin from parts car if needed.
6. Remove old fuel + add new fuel
7. Change oil & coolant
8. New Battery
9. Try Starting
#26
Race Car
The last 3 sitting 928's I worked on had gas that looked like Elmer's glue.
First jumper the FP relay do you hear it turn on?
If not open the sender and take a look inside the tank, I think you will be surprised what you see and smell. Remove the sender if it's covered or corroded start by drain the tank. You can try to reverse the FP to remove the sludge but if locked up you need to replace it.
You may have to remove the sock filter and replace it, flush the tank, remove the fuel line to the rails and blow them out. Then, depending on the fuel in the rails or injectors further flushing will be required along with cleaning the injectors professionally. If you do not clean out all the old fuel you will damage the new pump!
Parts:
sock
FP
Hose 90 Degree, now is a good time to replace all the fuel lines.
First jumper the FP relay do you hear it turn on?
If not open the sender and take a look inside the tank, I think you will be surprised what you see and smell. Remove the sender if it's covered or corroded start by drain the tank. You can try to reverse the FP to remove the sludge but if locked up you need to replace it.
You may have to remove the sock filter and replace it, flush the tank, remove the fuel line to the rails and blow them out. Then, depending on the fuel in the rails or injectors further flushing will be required along with cleaning the injectors professionally. If you do not clean out all the old fuel you will damage the new pump!
Parts:
sock
FP
Hose 90 Degree, now is a good time to replace all the fuel lines.
#27
Nordschleife Master
Hope for the best, but should be easy to make a, "before its a nice driver" list, and start in on it. As you dig deeper any serious issues should become obvious, and once all the routine stuff is done it should start right up without trying to hunt down some elusive "bad part" when its likely a half a dozen or more minor things.
Approaching this car with a clean some ground points and jump a relay plan ignores the real work of making it some kind of drivable car as opposed to startable. I would pull the engine, give it a full refresh including doing the heads and new head gaskets, clean the bay as it can only be cleaned without an engine in it, replace motor mounts, all the "before its a nice driver" stuff.
Approaching this car with a clean some ground points and jump a relay plan ignores the real work of making it some kind of drivable car as opposed to startable. I would pull the engine, give it a full refresh including doing the heads and new head gaskets, clean the bay as it can only be cleaned without an engine in it, replace motor mounts, all the "before its a nice driver" stuff.
#28
Burning Brakes
Seven of our eight of our porsches that had been sitting for along time before we aquired them have all had frozen fuel pumps if that tells you anything.......
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Not a good update,
The car has sat untouched and mice have moved in and have had a good time in the car.
I had already sold the MAF/ECU&EZK/Climate head off the car so I am thinking of parting out the rest.
Or sell it as-is for $2k (it does have LSD)
The car has sat untouched and mice have moved in and have had a good time in the car.
I had already sold the MAF/ECU&EZK/Climate head off the car so I am thinking of parting out the rest.
Or sell it as-is for $2k (it does have LSD)