Ed Hughes

What did you lube the injector o-rings with? That is always a cause of friction, and if not lubed, one of them little buggers can get buggered up...and it make it easier to press them in.

SeanR

Vasoline.

Ed Hughes

I don't know if you're joking or not by virtue of the smiley....Vaseline would be fine, the point is that lubing the o-rings is indeed a recommended.

justin

Ive always used ATF.

SeanR

I did use Vasoline. Justin tells me that it helps for many different things.

mj1pate

I'm waiting to see a manufacturer's claim that the injector o-rings are unaffected by petroleum based (i.e. solvents for rubber) lubricants. I squirt the o-rings with Armorall or Maguires rubber/vinyl treatment and the o-rings slide right into the ports. Of course, I've seen plenty of testimony from others that vaseline and various oils work fine, so it seems that you can use something slippery.

Mike

Ed Hughes

I'd use Vaseline or petroleum products before I'd ever use Armorall!! Read the article in the most recent Grassroots Motorsports on how to preserve tires, and why not to use tire dressing (Armorall, etc) on them. I'd think that they'd do the same longterm damage to o-rings.

To be precise, a lube like Dow 55 is specifically designed for O-rings.

mj1pate

Hmmmm....OK, I'll read it. I have to also reflect on the years of transparency that I've added to Alfa Spider plastic rear windows with the treatment. In addition, the door seals that I've been treating with it for decades always seem to look and feel brand new. But, I'm open minded given good reason.

Mike

justin

HAHA, I learned that from your.........ah, forget it.

SeanR

The 1st test run Saturday night was great. Didn't run it yesterday.

Today I take it to work. Rough, high idle and trans smashes in to gear. I've got it apart right now and it would seem that I lost a vac connection under the intake. The one that comes out to the T junction. You know the one, the one that is a real bitch to get to.................. The short one that is to small to get to even with my hands.

I can grab the end of it and give it a tug, it's not budging like it is connected. I put in a new silicone vac line set and when I put it in, all were nice and tight. I can't physically see the connection but I can't pull out the line either.

Just dug in to it so I'll report back later.

SeanR

Ok, scratch the lower intake vac line. It's connected. Still trouble shooting. I've got vac pressure to everything. I'm wondering if the EGR and Canister vac lines are crossed. I didn't think so because the '90 has them hooked up the same way.

odd.

2nd test run and she pulls like a beast up to redline in 1st. (only used to get to 5500rpm then 2nd) vac is good. She runs fantastic. Just a 100-200 rpm higher idle and it is a rough idle. Like it's loping.

the flyin' scotsman

Did you test the hall and fly wheel sensors?

I'm in the middle of the same project and dont want to miss replacing parts and vice versa.

Whats this about heaters..........its -20C here

worf928

And one more thing to check: the throttle cable at the firewall. Make sure that the fitting is seated. Most of the time it is broken and will 'pull out' and get stuck thereby adding a couple of 100 idle rpm.

Also, your symptoms sound more like the classic intake leak. Check the plastic y-connector on the passenger side of the mass-air sensor's rubber elbow. This y connects the rear breather line with the elbow and the long breather line that goes to the oil filler neck. It's pretty easy to get the y (partially or completely) pulled out of the elbow when you wrestle the intake into place.

SeanR

TPS and throttle cable are in good working order.

I did have an issue getting the cam cover breather back on that elbow, after reinstall it popped off and was a pain to get on. After looking at it last night, it appears to be seated good, and the elbow looks in the correct position. I'll triple check everything tonight. Going to start by putting a Hammer on it and rechecking the ISV.

Thanks guys, I'll keep you updated.

SeanR

Hammer was hooked up today by Roger and things were peachy. ISV worked, TPS was responsive and clicked where it should.

We took a look at his '87 intake that is apart (waiting for me to come rebuild it) and noticed that there were 2 nipples on the very bottom of the intake. I remember looking at the pictures on R-list and the diagram that Mark Robinson sent with his silicone vac kit. I hooked the main vac line at the bottom instead of at one of two top of MAF outlets. Apparently one of the bottom ones goes to the EGR, the two tops go to main vac for the fuel dampeners, transmission. No idea where the 2nd nipple goes on his. I don't remember there being 2 on my '88. I had the EGR (bottom of the intake) hooked up to the main vac system. Didn't think this would be a big deal..........wrong. There is apparently a lower vac pressure at the lower nipples. Thanks for that info Sterling.

When I switched to the top of the inlet (above the MAF) line, I got full pull on vac and it solved all but the high idle problem. I only took about a 1 mile drive as a test, but all seems good on shifts and power. It would seem that putting the higher vac line on the EGR screws up on idle. I may be wrong, but that is all we can come up with so far.

I will update more tomorrow after I get home from work.