"frame rails"
08-22-2002, 10:28 PM
#1
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"frame rails"
Hi all,
My 928 has some pretty banged up "frame rails", in this case I'm referring to the boxed frame section that is welded to the floor and connects to the front subframe that holds the front susp., engine, etc.
One(or more) of the PO's apparently jacked up the car on these. Over the years I've seen this on several 928's.
Has anyone ever had these repaired or replaced? I think this section is still available from Porsche.
Also, is there a way to replace the polymer based undercoatimg where it may have been rubbed off in spots?
Thanks.
Joel
My 928 has some pretty banged up "frame rails", in this case I'm referring to the boxed frame section that is welded to the floor and connects to the front subframe that holds the front susp., engine, etc.
One(or more) of the PO's apparently jacked up the car on these. Over the years I've seen this on several 928's.
Has anyone ever had these repaired or replaced? I think this section is still available from Porsche.
Also, is there a way to replace the polymer based undercoatimg where it may have been rubbed off in spots?
Thanks.
Joel
08-23-2002, 03:46 AM
#2
Joel,
In a perfect world, one in which our sHARKs are kept to factory spec. -at no cost- at all times I'd worry about it.
However, if the rails aren't crushed more than a 1/4 of thier height and over 4/5 inches long I would watch it rather than racing to a body shop for structural repairs. If you must... strip an area roughly, 21/2 times the length of the damage and cruise over to a county airport, find a tinbender, A&P guy and ask him to give you an estimate for a scab patch with solid countersunk rivets to body and blind rivets to the rail, patch matierial to be .040 T4 or T6
alclad aluminum and patch should nest well on all legs, flats, and radius's. Car does not have to be loaded or unloaded. Coat the whole patch with pro-seal before installation. If you have the area cleaned up repair should only take 2 hours max.
Should be a lot cheaper than having the bodyshop unleash Elmer who "chemically strips" the rail with the old oxy/acetylene torch, body grinder, or hacks out the damage with a die grinder.
To head off the flames : Yeah, it probably is a galvanized box but the total coat sealant will nullify corrosion and T4 will be equal to or greater in strength than the damaged matierial.
As for the polymer undercoating; Swamp Cooler pan sealant for about $7.00 is compatable and you can figure a way to duplicate the look as it drys.
hth <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
In a perfect world, one in which our sHARKs are kept to factory spec. -at no cost- at all times I'd worry about it.
However, if the rails aren't crushed more than a 1/4 of thier height and over 4/5 inches long I would watch it rather than racing to a body shop for structural repairs. If you must... strip an area roughly, 21/2 times the length of the damage and cruise over to a county airport, find a tinbender, A&P guy and ask him to give you an estimate for a scab patch with solid countersunk rivets to body and blind rivets to the rail, patch matierial to be .040 T4 or T6
alclad aluminum and patch should nest well on all legs, flats, and radius's. Car does not have to be loaded or unloaded. Coat the whole patch with pro-seal before installation. If you have the area cleaned up repair should only take 2 hours max.
Should be a lot cheaper than having the bodyshop unleash Elmer who "chemically strips" the rail with the old oxy/acetylene torch, body grinder, or hacks out the damage with a die grinder.
To head off the flames : Yeah, it probably is a galvanized box but the total coat sealant will nullify corrosion and T4 will be equal to or greater in strength than the damaged matierial.
As for the polymer undercoating; Swamp Cooler pan sealant for about $7.00 is compatable and you can figure a way to duplicate the look as it drys.
hth <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
08-25-2002, 10:59 AM
#4
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My LH rail has a couple of dings in it - < .5" deep, maybe 2-3" long, but I'm not too worried. No sign of rust, most of the undercoat is still there.
These are fairly normal here in the land of unmarked speed bumps.
jp
These are fairly normal here in the land of unmarked speed bumps.
jp
08-25-2002, 12:40 PM
#5
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The way to properly repait the damage is to have them chemically stripped, then have some studs welded on to the damaged area (special tool to do this along with a slide hammer). A slide hammer can then be used to pull the damaged area back into shape. I would not drill or cut any holes in the rails, since they are basically acting as a beam to support the structure of the vehicle. Once the damage is pulled, you can cut off the studs and have the area shutzed with some new rocker shutz, or some good undercoating (3M or Wurth out of a splatter gun).