Giovanni

How did the car drive before all these issues? Did it just die and you decided to take the intake off? Could it be a DBS (dead brain syndrome, not really an official acronym, lol)?

dr bob

On the battery issue-- Disconnect the battery from the car and use a battery charger to restore the charge. No need to buy a new battery if the old one was OK before you drained it.

There are two primary things needed for the engine to run-- Fuel and Spark. Let's start with spark. You can test for spark by pulling a spark plug and laying it on a metal part of the engine, so the metal threads of the plug are tiuching the metal part of the engine. Spark plug wire is attached to the plug, so that electrically the plug is grounded and ignition voltage passes to the plug the same way it would if installed in the engine. Have someone crank the engine while you look for a spark in the end of the plug. You should see a spark for every other revolution of the crankshaft as you try the starter, so it will only take a few seconds of cranking with the starter motor to see if there is or isn't a spark. If no spark, the things you might have disturbed during intake refurbish are the hall sensor at the rear that sees flywheel position or the wiring attached to it. If you had the caps and rotors removed, look at them and at the coil wires to be sure they are connected correctly. Make sure the rotors are actually installed again if you removed them. There's more diagnosis but start off with the things you had the opportunity to disturb during your intake project.

The second suspect is no fuel. There's an inexpensive fuel injection tester called a "noid light" that you can often find at better parts stores. This is a test light that plugs into the injector harness, and indicates when/if an injector is getting a signal to open. Find/buy/borrow one. and plug it into the harness. Crank the engine and see if there are signals going to the injectors. If no signal, there are a couple possibilities, both related to shorted or grounded wires that may have been damaged or disturbed during the intake project. Testing requires an ohm meter and some knowledge of how it works. With the key off, you should be able to test for resistance between each injector connector terminal and ground, and see infinite resistance. If you see low or no resistance on any connector terminal, it's likely that you pinched or shorted a wire to ground when you reassembled. If there is no continuity to ground from any point, change the meter to read DC voltage. Turn the key on, and measure voltage at all terminals to ground. With all the injector connectors pulled from the injectors, you should see 10-12 volts on just one terminal in each of the connctors. There should be no voltage on the other connector at all. If there is voltage on both terminals in any connector, you have a short between the two wires going to at least one connector. If you see one that has voltage on both terminals it's likely you'll see the same symptom on three others (four total) since the wiring runs to four injectors from each "channel" in the LHA injection control box. You'll likely find that wires in or near one of the injectors has been twisted, cracked, etc, and the removal and replacement during the manifold project has caused a pair to short together.

So your choiuces are-- shorted together or shorted to ground, posssibly both.

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Why did you pull the manifold in the first place? Was the car running OK before you started that project? If it was OK, at least that narrows down the probable causes list quite a bit. If the car wasn't running before you started and it still isn't running, that list is a lot bigger.

Post back what you find.

88porsche928

Giovanni - before i took the intake manifold off the car started fine

worf928

If everything else you touched during the intake R&R is fine, then the answer is the engine speed sensor at the back of the block. However, unless the harness connection for the sensor was not in its hold-down bracket you would not have disturbed the sensor during the intake R&R.

But, your issue is more likely to be related to something you touched during the intake R&R. Remove your fuel rail covers and examine the injector harness connections as in the previous posts. That is the most likely culprit.

88porsche928

bob i put the battery back on the charger it is charging right now

Mrmerlin

88 why did you pull the intake and what parts did you replace?
Please answer this question .
At the very least you should have replaced, the flappy vacuum pot, both knock sensors found in the bottom of the valley, the throttle position sensor,found on the throttle assebly, the crank position sensor , found at the top rear of the engine block and the hall position sensor found on the right side of the head behind the cam pulley, it is screwed into the front of the head just under the lifting lug and reads off of the right side cam pulley. Also to consider is a new set of 4 hole injectors, and the ISV, along with the intake gaskets and the oil fill O ring, If you replace the injectors then its a good idea to replace the fuel filter before installing the new injectors

88porsche928

I thought i heard something bouncing around in the intake manifold, their was nothing their. I replaced the side cover gaskets, the throttle body gaskets, the intake manifold gaskets, the isv is pretty new i replaced it a month or two ago. I put new orings on the fuel injectors.

Mrmerlin

so you removed the intake manifold or just the sides?

Is it possible that you may have not reconnected the crank position sensor to the correct part of the harness and also are both of the grounds connected in the back of the engine for the fuelinjectors? The more info you provide the easier it is for an online diagnosis I am still not really sure about what you have done . Did the knock sensors look OK they are in the block valley and the connectors to these units usually disintergrate when you go to disconnect the harness from them, same goes for the crank position sensor and the hall sensor, and usually the throttle position sensor is replaced since its out and easy to work on if you removed the complete intake

88porsche928

by any chance does any one have any pictures of the crank position sensor and its location?

Giovanni

The engine will start with the crank sensor disconnected. Can you take pics of all sides of the engine and the vacuum lines?

pmotts

Are you sure about that?

88porsche928

here are images in the engine bay

pmotts

I don't see anything obvious. Your passenger side knock sensor will need to be connected or your timing will be retarded, I think, but it won't keep your Shark from starting. If you leave the vacuum hose coming off of the fuel regulator the way it shows in your last picture you will have a problem very soon.

Mrmerlin

the engine will not start without the crank position sensor connected as the LH/EZK will not be able to tell if the engine is turning The knock sensor that is on the right fuel rail is toast as can be evidenced by the elex tape around whats left of the cable/connector, so its time to remove the intake and replace all of the parts that I posted about before .
Sorry but if your going to have your car running coorectly all of these parts must be in top condition, once the intake is off, then you can find the crank position sensor and you will see the knock sensors , label all of the connectors so you can replace them , you may already have miswired the crank position sensor with something else, like the ISV

Mrmerlin

Also dont forget to order a new O ring for the base of the oil fill spout this is usually what causes the knock sensors to crumble and the valley to fill with oil, after the intake comes off