Metal Gas Cap Pawl Installed
03-02-2014, 03:48 AM
#107
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There are no dumb questions, only dumb answers.
Once you have drilled the spring hole, and cut the top cavity to mate with the lock tumbler end....assuming you have dismantled the cap...
pull the lock tumbler assy out of the white part.
fit the spring in the hole in the pawl
push the pawl into the slot in the bottom spring first , cavity upwards - takes a bit of pressure to get the teeth flush with the outer surface.
lubricate the end of the lock tumbler with either graphite or some dry lube stuff - or the cavity in the pawl.
fit the lock tumbler in from the top, wriggling until the end engages with the pawl, and the chrome cap is fully home.
put the assembly into the white part with teeth inside the bottom.
check that the assembly will turn freely (ie locked, cap cant be undone) with the key at one extreme - if it catches, the teeth may need a tiny bit of filing, or check that the spring hole is deep enough, or that the end of the tumbler casting is not worn.
check that with the key at the other extreme of its range (180 degrees away), the inner and outer white parts are locked together, and the cap could be undone.
When ok, remove the key, refit the red cover fully. Fit to car.
And thank you everybody who has sent me donations.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
Once you have drilled the spring hole, and cut the top cavity to mate with the lock tumbler end....assuming you have dismantled the cap...
pull the lock tumbler assy out of the white part.
fit the spring in the hole in the pawl
push the pawl into the slot in the bottom spring first , cavity upwards - takes a bit of pressure to get the teeth flush with the outer surface.
lubricate the end of the lock tumbler with either graphite or some dry lube stuff - or the cavity in the pawl.
fit the lock tumbler in from the top, wriggling until the end engages with the pawl, and the chrome cap is fully home.
put the assembly into the white part with teeth inside the bottom.
check that the assembly will turn freely (ie locked, cap cant be undone) with the key at one extreme - if it catches, the teeth may need a tiny bit of filing, or check that the spring hole is deep enough, or that the end of the tumbler casting is not worn.
check that with the key at the other extreme of its range (180 degrees away), the inner and outer white parts are locked together, and the cap could be undone.
When ok, remove the key, refit the red cover fully. Fit to car.
And thank you everybody who has sent me donations.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
03-02-2014, 11:03 AM
#108
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Did you mean how test the cap you have to see if this pawl is broken?
The cap is designed to spin freely when locked (so you cannot undo it). When unlocked it is supposed to have friction up to a point in the closure direction and then at a certain point of torque it will start to ratchet to limit how tight you can close the cap, in the opening direction it should always fully engage the outer cap - to allow you to unscrew the cap.
The key clockwise -> lock and counter-clockwise -> unlock.
So interestingly when the pawl is totally retracted & disengaged the cap is locked and when the pawl is extended and in connection with the outer cap (ratchets in one direction and 'locks' to the teeth in the other it is then actually unlocked).
So the locking function of the pawl and the overall functional state wrt locking of the total cap are reversed, this can be confusing to describe as a result.
When the pawl is broken it will fail to unlocked - will ratchet all the time in one direction and will always open in the other...
Alan
The cap is designed to spin freely when locked (so you cannot undo it). When unlocked it is supposed to have friction up to a point in the closure direction and then at a certain point of torque it will start to ratchet to limit how tight you can close the cap, in the opening direction it should always fully engage the outer cap - to allow you to unscrew the cap.
The key clockwise -> lock and counter-clockwise -> unlock.
So interestingly when the pawl is totally retracted & disengaged the cap is locked and when the pawl is extended and in connection with the outer cap (ratchets in one direction and 'locks' to the teeth in the other it is then actually unlocked).
So the locking function of the pawl and the overall functional state wrt locking of the total cap are reversed, this can be confusing to describe as a result.
When the pawl is broken it will fail to unlocked - will ratchet all the time in one direction and will always open in the other...
Alan
03-02-2014, 03:33 PM
#110
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Jerry
No - it will fail to unlocked - where the pawl locks (but this is not the functionally locked state of the cap - else you'd never get it off).
Like I said due to this "reversal" its confusing to describe - I think we can agree the cap is locked when it won't come off, and unlocked when it will come off.
Alan
No - it will fail to unlocked - where the pawl locks (but this is not the functionally locked state of the cap - else you'd never get it off).
Like I said due to this "reversal" its confusing to describe - I think we can agree the cap is locked when it won't come off, and unlocked when it will come off.
Alan
03-02-2014, 10:21 PM
#114
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See if it works as described - you don't need to reassemble to test this, you can just test the lock barrel in the white part - I believe you can also test the engagement with the cap parially assembled but the red part not yet locked onto the white part.
More generaly when locked you want the whole of the pawl teeth to be fully contained within the circumference of the rest of the lock bottom - and when extended they need to mesh fully with the teeth in the white part, then all that is left is to test the ratcheting spring pressure - I think the factory spring rate was a little too high (probably part of why the nylon pawls break when locked (only the spring stresses the pawl end) - make the spring hole marginally deeper and you reduce that rate... (but too much and the pawl doesn't reliably fully extend, or doesn't close sufficiently tight)
Alan.
More generaly when locked you want the whole of the pawl teeth to be fully contained within the circumference of the rest of the lock bottom - and when extended they need to mesh fully with the teeth in the white part, then all that is left is to test the ratcheting spring pressure - I think the factory spring rate was a little too high (probably part of why the nylon pawls break when locked (only the spring stresses the pawl end) - make the spring hole marginally deeper and you reduce that rate... (but too much and the pawl doesn't reliably fully extend, or doesn't close sufficiently tight)
Alan.
03-03-2014, 12:12 AM
#115
Rennlist Member
Well, at first I thought I misinterpreted the question when I saw Alan's reply, giving a dumb answer, but in the end it seems I was correct...did my answer not help, Chitown?
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
03-03-2014, 10:13 PM
#116
Three Wheelin'
Perhaps JP...reading from a little screen doesnt help. Might have skipped it or got distracted...but thanks for this cool mod.
Last edited by chitown928s4; 05-05-2014 at 06:21 PM.
03-28-2014, 04:14 PM
#117
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My locking gas cap no longer is.
I do have a good used one that I could swap out the locking mechanism.
Should I install the fix it part while I'm at it?
I do have a good used one that I could swap out the locking mechanism.
Should I install the fix it part while I'm at it?
03-28-2014, 05:10 PM
#118
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I would - but I don't have any available yet - am expecting a few more from jp but they are likely in an economy mail (slow) path.
These next ones will likely be the last ones ever... jp no longer has access to the waterjet guy...
If someone else could replicate them (steel /alloy) and take this over - I could send one (fully finished) as a model.
Alan
These next ones will likely be the last ones ever... jp no longer has access to the waterjet guy...
If someone else could replicate them (steel /alloy) and take this over - I could send one (fully finished) as a model.
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 03-29-2014 at 10:40 AM.
