MM Replacement question
I'm ready to replace MM, first set of Anchor were hydraulic and settled only after one year and 5000 miles. I now have solid MM, thanks to ROGER.
My question: do I need washers for spacers ? |
YES! If you want to retain the original height of the engine.
Jim Mayzurk 93 GTS 5-spd |
When I purchased Roger's kit, the washers were included. You should check with him to confirm that.
Fun project. Doing the oil pan gasket as well? Good luck, Tim |
Originally Posted by 84totheFloor
(Post 4705804)
When I purchased Roger's kit, the washers were included. You should check with him to confirm that.
Fun project. Doing the oil pan gasket as well? Good luck, Tim No oil pan gasket replacement, bottom is bone dry. Roger didn't include washers but I have several from previous MM changeout, that were not used. I'm wondering if washers could have helped. |
Michael,
I can't see how the washers would help from keeping the mounts from collapsing but it might have given you little more time from the engine touching the crossmemeber. Did you change the oil pan gasket duirnghte last MM job? If not, even if its' dry at the momnet, I would consider replacing it with the urathane(sp?) one. |
Originally Posted by Imo000
(Post 4706028)
Did you change the oil pan gasket duirnghte last MM job? If not, even if its' dry at the momnet, I would consider replacing it with the urathane(sp?) one.
|
Where exactly are the spacers(washers) positioned?
Originally Posted by Jim M.
(Post 4704858)
YES! If you want to retain the original height of the engine.
Jim Mayzurk 93 GTS 5-spd |
Michael:
Watch out that the Anchor MM's have longer bolts than stock. the bolt may hit/touch the power steering line banjo bolt at the steering rack. Mine did and I think this has occured before with others. I used a Dremel to cut off about 3/8" of the MM bolt. Good luck. |
The MM's I supply are solid and not Anchor.
The studs are shorter than the Anchor and do not seem to hit the steering rack allthough they are close. I am considering cutting 2 or 3mm from the bottom stud and yo may want to do the same as it is easier to do with the MM in a vice than in the car. I do not use any spacers at all as I see no reason for them. If you want your engine to sit 1mm higher than use a 1mm spacer. Roger |
Good advice, What are symptons of worn rod bearings?
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Had my vehicle on a hoist this weekend to look at my failing MM. Can somebody show me the correct orientation of MM. Is it possible to install them upside down? I've decided to include spacers to insure correct motor height, where show the spacers go?
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The metal (brassy looking) underside of the motor mounts have a small protrusion that has to fit into the hole in the retaining clamp. This helps with the proper orientation of the mount.
I'm not sure how it could be done upside down. BTW, how are you lifting the engine? It doesn't need to be raised more than a couple of inches, as I recall. Nevertheless, be careful to detach the ground strap on the passenger's side of the engine. |
Originally Posted by BIMMERMIKE
(Post 4724087)
Had my vehicle on a hoist this weekend to look at my failing MM. Can somebody show me the correct orientation of MM. Is it possible to install them upside down? I've decided to include spacers to insure correct motor height, where show the spacers go?
Good luck :) Jerome |
Replaced Anchor MM with Rogers MM and all is good again! The Anchor MM were not hydraulic but the solid units looked compressed compared to Rogers MM.
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It's essentially impossible to get them in upside down, although I tried for many hours... :icon107: I bought mounts from Carl, and had to dremel a few mm off the bottom stud to get them through the mounting holes in the crossmember, but once they're lined up it'll all go together.
Here's my thread of idiocy, for posterity's sake: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...t=over+my+head |
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