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Seat only moves forward -- bucking didn't work

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Old 08-18-2007, 01:31 AM
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Pogophil
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Default Seat only moves forward -- bucking didn't work

My drivers' seat in my 83 928 only moves forward, not backwards at all. It isn't moved all the way forward yet. I'm guessing the seat (front/back) switch is bad.

Should the 'bucking bronco' trick work in this case, or does that only work when the seat is all the way back, and the track falls apart? Any way I can ratchet the seat back a couple of notches?

Thanks in advance!
Old 08-18-2007, 01:41 AM
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Alan
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No don't do it - if its the switch you need to take out the switch and test the terminals... see if its reversing polearity correctly ... you can directly connect power in reverse to the direction that works - if it moves correctly its the switch... By manual connection you can take the seat out - or splice a new switch in in situ...

It can't really be the motor if it works in the other direction...

Alan
Old 08-18-2007, 01:45 AM
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chaadster
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If the motor is not working, you can use the U-shaped wrench in the toolkit to manually move the seat back via the the circular port in the plastic cover that is at the bottom front of the seat. Use the hex head end of the wrench.

Don't torque on that manual gear too hard, as it's made of fairly brittle plastic and will break teeth. If you cannot move it using this method, remove that plastic cover and disconnect the two cables that enter the motor from the left and right sides. I think it's just a spring clip that holds each cable in place, and once you release the clip, you can pull the cables from the drive motor.

Next, use a power drill to turn the cables by clamping the motor end of the cables in the drill chuck. Be careful to switch sides back and forth , so that you are moving the seat back more or less evenly. Avoid getting it cockeyed and jammed in the rails.

You may want to physically inspect the rails for dropped coins or anything else that may be obstructed movement before doing either of the above..

Good luck.
Old 08-21-2007, 10:25 PM
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Jerome Craig
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Originally Posted by chaadster
If the motor is not working, you can use the U-shaped wrench in the toolkit to manually move the seat back via the the circular port in the plastic cover that is at the bottom front of the seat. Use the hex head end of the wrench.

Don't torque on that manual gear too hard, as it's made of fairly brittle plastic and will break teeth. If you cannot move it using this method, remove that plastic cover and disconnect the two cables that enter the motor from the left and right sides. I think it's just a spring clip that holds each cable in place, and once you release the clip, you can pull the cables from the drive motor.

Next, use a power drill to turn the cables by clamping the motor end of the cables in the drill chuck. Be careful to switch sides back and forth , so that you are moving the seat back more or less evenly. Avoid getting it cockeyed and jammed in the rails.

You may want to physically inspect the rails for dropped coins or anything else that may be obstructed movement before doing either of the above..

Good luck.
What Chaad said plus.... it will take you about 15 - 20 minutes to figure out how to get the two cables out, but only about 2 minutes to fix it

BTDT... there was a quarter stuck in one of my rails.
Old 08-21-2007, 10:52 PM
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heinrich
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try holding "back" while tapping on the seat with your fist near the switch. Failing that, tap your straingtened (middle) finger hard where you would press "back" ...
Old 08-24-2007, 12:28 AM
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Pogophil
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SOLVED!

It was a bad switch. I simply swapped switches with a lesser used one on that same panel (the up/down switch), and all is well!

Thanks for everyone's help! Hopefully someone else will be able to search this thread if they ever have a similar problem.
Old 08-24-2007, 01:21 AM
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You might try cleaning the switch internals with a product called Deoxit (from Caig Labs, I think). Fry's sells it as well as others. It is more than the usual contact cleaner as it will remove some oxidation. It resurrected several switches that I would otherwise have replaced, and they are still working, so far, at least...

Bob



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