TB/WP - difficulty removing the lower idler arm
 

Hi all - I'm in the middle of the TB/WP replacement. I plan to replace all oil seals, rollers, etc.

I removed the WP today with no broken bolts - whew! I did have difficulty with one bolt, but I used quite a bit of Kroil. I alternated between loosening and tightening while applying more Kroil and 15 minutes later it was out. Threads in the block are fine; bolt was rusted. I highly recommend Kroil!

Here's my problem - I removed the two c-clips from the lower idler arm studs (below the crankshaft gear) but cannot remove the lower idler arm assembly. It's stuck. I've been soaking it with Kroil for the past few hours and gently tapping it with a hammer.

Is there a special procedure for removing the idler arm? Am i missing anything?

Adam

I had quite a bit of corrosion on mine as well. There are some washers behind the c-clips that were corroded to the point they were holding mine on. If I remember right, I hit it with the PB Blaster, the heat gun and worked it gently by prying from different angles.

I can't remember exactly, but does the Crank Gear need to come off first?

Yes, my old one was very dirty; it was hard to see the small washers.
It will pull straight off once it is free.
This one right?

I believe the two studs are of stainless steel, so you should not have to worry about those being corroded as well.

Great job on the water pump bolt.

Hi - my washers were corroded too.

It took several minutes to get them off. It appears the driver's side stud to idler arm is free (that side moves in/out). It's the passenger side that is tight.

I plan to remove the crankshaft gear and replace the crankshaft seal. It looks like the idler arm assembly needs to be removed to gain access to the crankshaft gear and then the seal.

Adam

davek9 - yes, that's the idler arm I'm trying to remove. Mine will not pull straight off. The right side in loose; left is not. I'm reluctant to use heat due to the close proximity to the oil pan seal.

Adam

Is your crank seal leaking? Bill Ball talked me out of replacing mine as it wasn't leaking and they can be tricky to install and you won't know if it is going to leak until you get it all back together and running. Same on the oil pump seal. The thought of having to "go back in" over a leak was enough to convince me.

I do have it (and all seals) on the list for the SC prep.

As of right now, it appears both the crankshaft seal and oil pump seals are not leaking. I thought I would replace them while I was in there.

The motor has 78k miles on it.

Maybe I shouldn't replace them?
Adam

Please remember to use a coating of eng assembly lube on all the new seals! It will keep them from running dry during start up this is needed where the seals contact spinning surfaces (the shafts).

I would replace all the seals WYAIT I sure did not want to go back in!
My luck one would leak before the next belt change is due

The original problem--

Verify that you have removed the washers that sit between the retainer clips and the idler console on the pins. The clips sit in square-cut grooves in those little studs. The washers will slide forward a bit and then drop into the grooves, effectively retaining the console on the pins. You may need to work the washers around a bit with a small screwdriver to get them free on the pins. A small magnet really helps here.

Once the two washers are removed, that little console should slide right off the pins. A blast with brake clean should clear any accumulated crud from the ends of the bores, if that's holding it in place.

On reassembly, be sure to use a liberal dose of anti-seize on the pins. It will reduce wear on the cast idler console, as well as prevent other crud from finding its way into the bores. Remember also that the rear belt guide washer, the one between the engine and the crank drive sprocket, must be installed on the crank before that little idler console gose back on. Be sure to use new retaining clips on those pins when you reassemble; the old ones get sprung and distorted a bit when they are removed.

Hi dr bob - I rechecked my work. I did remove two clips and two washers. I checked for another washer on the left stud - just in case - and found none.

I hit it with brake cleaner several minutes ago. When I pry the idler arm (very carefully) it moves slightly. The pin also flexes slightly which concerns me.

I think there is an accumulation of rust between the stud and the lower idler housing - ugh!

I soaked it again with Kroil.

This is so frustrating! I thought the WP bolts was going to be the biggest challenge.

It sounds like you are starting to get some movement between the pin and the carrier, which is a good sign. Once you get a little movement, moving it back and forth should free it up. It does need to come straight off the pins to keep it from binding on one or the other but I think you are over the worst of it.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Hi Roger,

I didn't make much progress today. Soaked it several more times with Kroil. I grabbed the bottom lip of the idler assembly with a pair of vice grips. There is a little movement up and down.

If I give the assembly a little twist, right to left, the pin also moves.

I triple checked that I removed the washers - which I did.

One member thought the pins are stainless steel. Could there be corrosion between the idler assembly body and the pin that's preventing its removal?

I'm concerned that too much rocking back and forth will loosen the pin in the block.

It's out!!!!!

I used snap on tool #s9094 (seal removal tool) and hooked it behind the lower left corner of the assembly and gently tapped away. After 3-4 minutes it popped off the pin! I am heading to the kitchen for a glass of wine.....or two!

There is slight accumulation of rust on the pins so I will carefully clean them and definitely use anti-seize on the install.

Whew!!!!

My 89 now has 182K miles on it with original front seals. When they leak, I'll replace them. As regards the lower idler - if the rollers move freely or can be made to move freely again with a little lube, I leave them alone. This is not a mission-critical part like the tensioning roller and the gears. I know, this sounds to some like the antithesis of good care, and I wouldn't expect this opinion to gain much support, even though I think I take very good care of my car.