Wet sand after paint job with pics
05-06-2007, 01:37 PM
#16
Rocket Pilot
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You can even do the process I(and red) stated earlier to an older paint job with nice results-a true recondition/detail. Throw your claybars in the trash, as they are virtually useless on older paint.
Kevin
Kevin
Last edited by Kevin Michael; 05-06-2007 at 01:38 PM. Reason: khfowier
05-06-2007, 07:39 PM
#21
Team Owner
Hey your new beading is really nice you sure didnt waste any time removing the front bumper cover and replacing it!. As far as cutting your paint i would only recommend that you only get near the paint with a grey foam waffle pad, no wool or any other fibre pads as they will build up heat if your not careful and you will then be burning the edges in fact, you should stay away from all edges with most any buffing system.
05-07-2007, 05:23 AM
#25
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Mark,
Got to disagree a bit on this one. 37 years of body work experience off and on with all different systems. Shops are pressed to color sand immediately because of customers. Color sanding and buffing on repairs is also necessary to blend the new paint with the existing.
However a good painter should be able to lay the clear coat on flat and smooth. The pictures indicate the painter put the paint on too dry and otherwise was either inexperienced or drunk. Many painters drink and do bad chemicals. So overall it is just a bad paint job.
Bad paint jobs can be made to look good with care a patience but they will never look right. With color sanding it is very important not to sand too much and take off the clear coat - especially on the edges. A good painter will build up the edges to almost dripping so there is enough paint to flatten out with the panel. Here again i have reservations when with a dry job if the painter actually got enough clear on the car.
If I was my car I would have it rubbed out in 600 grit and a second coat of clear put on the car. Then again if it was my car I would not go anywhere near the new two pack stuff.
Barring the optimium solution I would leave the car for months before attempting to do anything with the paint. The longer you wait the more the paint will cure. New paint - even the cataylized stuff takes six months to a year to dry - sometimes more depending on the amount of body work that preceded the paint and how long it was allowed to dry. The catalyized paint is tough because it traps in the underneath materials and does not allow them to outgas. This will casue the surface of the paint to change as the sun and heat hits it.
Once dry six months to a year I would then start on each panel with an evaluation looking through a magnifing glass to determine where the major defects are. Here is where you have to be very careful. The base was probably not blocked correctly. So attempting to block the surface entails the risk of sanding through the clear coat. Best bet is to just knock down the nibs and then block with 2000. A block is necessary as hand sanding will leave streaks. After a year the paint will be hard enough to respond to a finer paper. They will be no way to get the surface completely flat, but the high points can be knocked down and then using multiple applications of a fine compound will bring out a good shine.
I do not mean to be critical here. Matching the quality of the original paint is very costly and time consuming. But it would be a bummer to go to the effort of getting a decent job only to rub through places and ruin what is already there. I find if the clear is sanded with in 24-48 hours of application is then becomes difficult to get such a high shine. The clear actually becomes a bit cloudy and dull.
Good luck
Dan the Pod Guy
Got to disagree a bit on this one. 37 years of body work experience off and on with all different systems. Shops are pressed to color sand immediately because of customers. Color sanding and buffing on repairs is also necessary to blend the new paint with the existing.
However a good painter should be able to lay the clear coat on flat and smooth. The pictures indicate the painter put the paint on too dry and otherwise was either inexperienced or drunk. Many painters drink and do bad chemicals. So overall it is just a bad paint job.
Bad paint jobs can be made to look good with care a patience but they will never look right. With color sanding it is very important not to sand too much and take off the clear coat - especially on the edges. A good painter will build up the edges to almost dripping so there is enough paint to flatten out with the panel. Here again i have reservations when with a dry job if the painter actually got enough clear on the car.
If I was my car I would have it rubbed out in 600 grit and a second coat of clear put on the car. Then again if it was my car I would not go anywhere near the new two pack stuff.
Barring the optimium solution I would leave the car for months before attempting to do anything with the paint. The longer you wait the more the paint will cure. New paint - even the cataylized stuff takes six months to a year to dry - sometimes more depending on the amount of body work that preceded the paint and how long it was allowed to dry. The catalyized paint is tough because it traps in the underneath materials and does not allow them to outgas. This will casue the surface of the paint to change as the sun and heat hits it.
Once dry six months to a year I would then start on each panel with an evaluation looking through a magnifing glass to determine where the major defects are. Here is where you have to be very careful. The base was probably not blocked correctly. So attempting to block the surface entails the risk of sanding through the clear coat. Best bet is to just knock down the nibs and then block with 2000. A block is necessary as hand sanding will leave streaks. After a year the paint will be hard enough to respond to a finer paper. They will be no way to get the surface completely flat, but the high points can be knocked down and then using multiple applications of a fine compound will bring out a good shine.
I do not mean to be critical here. Matching the quality of the original paint is very costly and time consuming. But it would be a bummer to go to the effort of getting a decent job only to rub through places and ruin what is already there. I find if the clear is sanded with in 24-48 hours of application is then becomes difficult to get such a high shine. The clear actually becomes a bit cloudy and dull.
Good luck
Dan the Pod Guy
05-07-2007, 12:14 PM
#26
Team Owner
Hey I just realised that you have a cover on your new paint I would suggest that you remove it so it doesnt mess up something on the roof or hood let the sun cure the paint for a month atleast.
05-07-2007, 12:22 PM
#28
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Everyone is welcome to express their opinions in this thread. Podguy, your input is always welcome. You are very knowledgeable. This whole paint and detail topic is quite peculiar though. Everyone seems to think they know the "right" way, yet opinions on the "right" way vary tremendously. There is definitely no documented, textbook method that is accepted as the "right" way.
Most of what I've read says it is extremely difficult to lay a flat coat of paint using today's enviro-friendly concoctions. Only the most talented painters have the skill. So yes, it seems it is possible to lay perfect paint, but not the norm.
I didn't read anywhere that even mentioned waiting more than a week or so for color sanding to take place after a re-paint. Maybe it is due to the need for the car to be out of the shop, but I thought I would at least find something about the merits of extended curing time prior to wet sanding.
I will say I have no real world experience with paint. I only know what I've read, and I read everything I could get my hands on. My take was there seems to be many paths to the finish line, and most are adamant that their path is the right one. Almost like a religion.
Is my paint job perfect? Absolutely not. Was my paint guy the Yoda of painting? Hardly. My intent was not a show winning paint job. I was not looking to impress other paint guys. I could never justify spending that kind of money on a driver. I wanted a paint job that looks great to 95% of population as they look in awe of the car. I think I achieved that goal.
Most of what I've read says it is extremely difficult to lay a flat coat of paint using today's enviro-friendly concoctions. Only the most talented painters have the skill. So yes, it seems it is possible to lay perfect paint, but not the norm.
I didn't read anywhere that even mentioned waiting more than a week or so for color sanding to take place after a re-paint. Maybe it is due to the need for the car to be out of the shop, but I thought I would at least find something about the merits of extended curing time prior to wet sanding.
I will say I have no real world experience with paint. I only know what I've read, and I read everything I could get my hands on. My take was there seems to be many paths to the finish line, and most are adamant that their path is the right one. Almost like a religion.
Is my paint job perfect? Absolutely not. Was my paint guy the Yoda of painting? Hardly. My intent was not a show winning paint job. I was not looking to impress other paint guys. I could never justify spending that kind of money on a driver. I wanted a paint job that looks great to 95% of population as they look in awe of the car. I think I achieved that goal.
05-07-2007, 02:44 PM
#30
Drifting
Originally Posted by 0utlier
I wanted a paint job that looks great to 95% of population as they look in awe of the car. I think I achieved that goal.
