IcemanG17

With Rich's help today we knocked out my broken recirc flap actuator...in a smoking three hours.....Rich shows up at 10am....we were totally done by a touch after 1pm!!! Thanks to Rich for his experienced help....with two people each getting something done at the same time it makes it so much faster!!

A couple interesting pics...the first is a green plug behind the fuse panel that we didn't know what it was for?? It wasn't hooked up to anything?

My evaporator was totally caked with dirt-dust....it was disgusting!! That plus the extreme amount of goop the factory put on the recirc flap seal.....we just used a heavy bead of black silicone....

Once we were done the improvement in airflow was INCREDIBLE.....WOW...it flows so much better.....I would say double what it did before! That plus A/C that is now painfully cold.....it was about 65 degrees outside and we were getting temps in the teens (18.1 was the lowest) out of the center vent......& about 25 out of both side vents!!!! The HVAC system in the 928 is very well engineered.....& kicks *** "when" it works properly!

Again many thanks to Rich for helping out!!

H2

Great DIY info....great fotos...thanks!

Harvey

Mrmerlin

Ok now for the real test remove the passenger side carpet and get a hose and spray the base of the windshield on the passenger side, look into the foot well to see if your getting any leaks dripping onto you CE panel, the factory used a thick putty compound and this can be purchased at you friendly autobody supply store ,it is made by 3m and is called body caulk and comes in long thin black strips. I see you used silicone this may not seal as well as the original stuff due to the silicone being very soft and possibly squeezing out of the joint, the idea I believe is not to glue the blower box in but rather have it a semi permable seal to flex with heat from the body and the blower box. I hope that your efforts are successful. If you do find any leaks then I would suggest that you replace the silicone sealant with the strip caulk

IcemanG17

Stan
When I looked closely at the body were the flap goes through, it is actually bowed upwards around the edge forming a lip, I figured to make it harder for water to drip into the recirc flap....then if water makes it over that "lip" then the silicone seal hopefully would catch it......another reason I'm not worried about it is I don't drive in the rain!! My sharky doesn't like water!

perrys4

I'm supid so I can ask this question, Where do you access that part you cleaned with the toothbrush?

Richard S

Perry, you have to remove the hood, remove the HVAC blower motor, then stick your arm in thru the rubber part to reach the AC evaporator. Use a toothbrush to clean it off, and snake in a small shopvac hose with a thin attachment to vacuum everything up.



Brian's was CAKED with crap, whereas my problem was a huge amount of leaves around the blower. Ironically, the leaves probably prevented all the dust and dirt from blowing into the evaporator, otherwise it would have looked like Brian's. The amount of airflow from Brian's vents was AMAZING after we finished. Cleaning the evaporator is an easy job, as long as you don't mind removing the hood. Actually, we were able to re-align the hood better than it was before we started.

Rich

docmirror

That connector appears to be a typical type used for thermocouples. It may be the sensor for your interior temp or exterior temp sensor. the two brown wires look like they are coming out the back, so that would also indicate thermocouple. I'm not sure though, best guess.

Doc

perrys4

Too much work for just me but thanks for the reply. Add that to my to do list for Precision Motorwerks.

Schocki

Perry,
I removed the fan blower housing and you don't have to take the complete hood off. Taking the 2 bolts out on the passenger side hinge is good enough to move the hood slightly out of the way. Mark the hinge position with some masking tape on the hood, that makes adjustment easy.
Not that difficult

perrys4

okay, soundin easier.....anyone else have an even eaiser way?? ( this dam Chimay Grande reserve p-acks a whallop) please excuse my typing.

Tony

Has anyone thought about putting a filter of some sort upstream of the evaporator face?
Some sort of high flowing filter would work as you dont want to cut down on the airflow.
Cut up an old cheap fiberous type airfilter used in your house HVAC and make a simple frame for it, then place it in the "tunnel" before the evaportaor face.

Cleanng this out is on my list this spring.

F451

That is a great idea, and I need to do this job too. There must be a filter out there that would drop in without too much trouble or modification. Problem is finding it. -Ed

ps: I have to stop coming to rennlist, I'm finding way to much work that I need to do on my S4. Ignorance was bliss...

Schocki

But it will restrict the airflow. Especially in hot climates it will decrease efficiency.
If you use a filter you need to increase the surface area, that's why later models use a filter in front of the evaporator.

IcemanG17

Perry
I would guess with a helper....your looking 1.5 hours to clean out the evaporator.....its not hard really....you could do it!

Tony-Schocki-Ed
I was thinking about a filter too....late model GTS's had a pollen filter...928-572-479-00 that looks like it sits in front of the evaporator...but its hard to tell from the picture in PET6....I wonder if this can be retrofitted to earlier 928's......but the flip side is my airflow is SO GOOD....I don't want to restrict it...I would rather clean the evap every couple of years!

dr bob

I'd look at the HEPA filters that are add-ons to vacuum cleaners. Then there's the 'how to attach the thing' discussion, and how to get it in and out for cleaning.

Most home furnace filters are not much more than a fiberglass maze. The velocity through them is quite low, so most of the big chuks of dust get stuck to the media OK. In the car, the velocity is much higher plus you have moisture whenever you wash the car, it rains, etc. We really need a K&N-style foam filter, but maybe without the oil. Some open-cell foam sticks nicely to velco hooks too. Can a filter work where the boot ataches rather than down on the front face of the heater core?