friggin caliper bolts are stuck
 

as the headline said
the hex bolts on the old calipers are stuck.
is there a way of getting them off somehow?
i tried spaying them with some penetrating lube... but guess what!
they are like welded on
any ideas, my friends?

If you're using a socket to remove them, give it a few whacks with a hammer to help break things loose.

the bolts that attach the calipers to the car or that hold the calipers together?
if its to the car, then a box end 17mm and use a metal hammer to wack it. it may take some time, ive seen some real tough ones, (for hand tools that is) im sure air tools would take it right off.

mk

Use leverage. If you can get a cheater pipe on ther to increase your mechanical leverage, you'll either break it or break it loose.

heat it as a last resort. Heat the bolt and the surrounding area and then quench the bolt with ice or penetrating oil. The surrounding area will stay hot and expanded while the bolt will shrink slightly. Works like a charm.

Low pressure on an impact gun will work.

The hex socket head bolts (allen bolts) that hold the caliper halves together should not be taken apart. The bolts you want to remove are the 17mm hex as metioned by Mark K. above. I did the same thing when removing my front rotors to re-pack the wheel bearings. I only managed to get one out before I figured it out. Those bolts are extremely tight and have what looks like to me some sort of locking compound on them. They are also not available if you were to strip one out during the removal process.

Let PB Blaster penetrate overnight. Then bang from the top with a hammer. Then wrench. Should work. As Fabio said, heat is a good option.

Kroil. Drink beer. Tap the socket into the bolt a few times. Kroil. Turn. Done.

Mine were extremely tight, too, A few good whacks to a breaker bar w/ a ball-peen hammer did the trick. They're very robust- no worries about breaking orstripping- Just let 'em have it! :evilgrin:

Lord help you if you do this and the bolt breaks, cause you are going to have one hell of a time drilling it out.

No way would I do this ever again.

If you can not get it out, try welding a nut onto it and let it cool off by itself, that is how we get do it.

This happened to me last summer. I broke a torque wrench trying to undo them....

At this point handed the car over to a garage on the grounds that things were not going well + it needed brakes to pass its roadworthy test (MOT in the UK).

The garage used an impact driver and it apparently worked a treat. They charged about $200 to fit all disks and pads and finished the job 2 days sooner than they promised. I was, as you may imagine, amazed.

Yeah, don't use a torque wrench to undo bolts.:) I guess you learned that one.

PB blaster or kroil.....let in soak and use a bigger lever......the torque spec on the bolts is 62ftlbs.....when I removed mine last week to paint the rotors...I used the torque wrench set at 95ftlbs (for wheels) and it still clicked when I got them loose....just be sure to use lots of anti-seize when you put it back together!

CeeDee,
If the car is road worthy bring it to my house in Saint Cloud. The wife got me a 27 Gal air Compressor with assorted tools for Christmas and we can knock the brake job out. PM me.